Fairtax4me

Head bolts are 12 point 14mm IIRC. edit: thought I read DOHC somewhere... SOHC I don't think you need to remove the cam, but if you need to have it machined it's a good idea.

Assuming all 4 tires are of the same brand and style, did you check the treadwear speed and weight ratings on each tire to make sure they are all the same?

You got a vacuum leak. There are only a handful of vacuum hoses on these engines and they are easy to check. Be sure to also check all of the hoses for the crankcase breather system, and the Idle control valve hose, as they attach to the intake tube behind the MAF sensor (in relation to airflow). Any loose or missing hoses would create an opening for unmetered air to enter the intake tube and throw off readings from the MAF. Poor gasket sealing can also create major vacuum leaks. There are several on the intake. Exactly how long has the car been misfiring? Chances are you will need a new catalytic converter to get the car 100% right after this. Misfires indicate unburned fuel is entering the exhaust system, which can overheat and damage the cat(s). This is negligible. If the coil were at fault it would either be open circuit or shorted, and the resistance value would likely be vastly out of range.

Exactly why the 5 year replacement interval is recommended, even if the battery appears to be in good working order. On the flip side, just because a battery is new doesn't mean it can't have a bad cell. It's just not likely to be for the same reason as an old battery.

You never know they might have caused it. I like to give people the benefit of a doubt though. Chances are it was something that was just fine at the time they had it apart so they felt no need to replace it. Bearings tend to do that, fine one day, shot the next. Obviously, regular fluid changes will extend what's left of the life of the trans. Those 2wd manual transmissions don't seem to be easy to find, not around here at least. But the good news is you don't have to worry about matching differential ratios.

Well, two used assemblies that may have already been damaged or worn. A new bearing that may have been damaged when it was installed, or might have been defective, or just poor quality. Who knows. I don't complain about used parts going bad though. Who knows what those parts went through with their previous owner. I recently picked up a full tie rod assembly for my truck out of the junkyard for $12. It looked great, fit tight, wasn't covered in mud or grease or rust like they usually are. I pried and twisted and turned and all the joints were in great shape. They lasted a whole two months of one or two days a week driving. Of course, I then went out and bought the cheapest replacements I could find so I'll be changing them again in a year.

They'll probably fit fine. The OBS has taller struts than the regular Impreza to fit larger tires from the factory. That small of a difference should fit easily. If it were a 215 65, you might be pushing it. 2mph difference in the speedometer is like the difference between a brand new tire and a worn out one of the same size, no harm no foul there.

There are a handful of threads around here dealing with replacement of the main shaft roller bearing. To fix means basically tearing the transmission down and removing the input shaft (main shaft) removing the 5th gear assemblies and pulling the bearing off. The new bearing is pressed on 5th gear installed and the lock nut on the end tightened. Not really difficult, but time consuming, and a bit of a daunting task for a novice. You need some special tools, large sockets, gear puller, bearing puller, shop press. A transmission shop probably wouldn't do the work without doing a full rebuild which is $$$$. The more common remedy is to drive it 'til it quits, which can often be tens of thousands of miles, then replace it with a used trans.

Used from a pick and pull maybe. Salvage yards around here want around $50 - $90 for a flywheel, if they'll even sell you one without buying a whole engine. Plus $40 to have it resurfaced, and the ONLY machine shop left around here charges extra to remove the alignment dowels. (Not sure if others do the same, but I was pretty ticked about an extra $10 charge for something I could have easily done myself.) By the time you pay for all that you might as well buy a new one. I didn't read the rest I just saw the "Lightweight" in the description.

Now that would be really cool. Ive heard of people using stand-alone type transfer cases on these, but only when using an entirely different drivetrain. A transfer case adapted to work on a Subaru transmission is an undertaking of a whole different nature. I'm going to venture to guess you have some background in machining and metal work?

That will fit fine. Be careful of lightweight flywheels. They can create engine vibration at low RPM. The idea sounds nice and all, but when you remove weight from the crankshaft/flywheel assembly, you change the potential energy of that rotating mass. This means it will respond differently when engaging, and will reduce it's ability to "smooth out" the changes in crankshaft velocity at lower rpm.

I've had them be perfectly fine... until I started the engine. Once the booster works and I stand on the brake nice and hard it will start to leak. I always check new banjo bolt washers with the engine running before even putting the wheels back on. I'd guess it was leaking the whole time, just not very much at first. Whatever debris caused the dimple in the washer may have been blown out by applying the brakes to stop down hill. Hard to say.

Picked up some goodies form the soob dealer today. $2.62 for the WP gasket. I was close. But I ran it up to $60 between seals, O rings, and hoses. Going back for heater hoses Monday when the radiator hoses come in.

Probably a safe bet the ignition switch is bad.

Try checking Autotrader for listings for similar cars in your region.

X2 Buy a whole timing kit. Belt with all idlers. If they didn't change the water pump, do that as well. Cheap insurance if that one locks up. There are lots of threads around here about timing belt replacement. Johns siggy has links to a few of them. Be prepared to helicoil other bolt holes. If they stripped one, they may have been borderline with any number of others.

It's a car. It was designed to piss you off. Bruning anything going up a hill is either tires or clutch. < Gonna bet on clutch since it's kinda hard to burn tires in a Subaru.

X2. Not strange. Cold engine idles high to warm up, cold oil is thick, combine the two = oil pressure high. Idle engine = low oil pressure + Warm engine (= warm oil) = low pressure. Low oil pressure = lifter bleed down. Accelerating engine = oil pressure normal = bled out lifters pump up again. Change the oil with a high mileage blend such as Valvoline or Castrol to help clean out partially clogged oil passages, and use a quality oil filter. If that doesn't fix it in one or two changes, you might want to remove the rocker shafts and clean out the oil passages in them. Beyond that, the backing plate on the pump may be a bit loose which is allowing pressure to bleed out at the pump. Or the rotor in the pump may just be worn beyond spec and isn't making the right pressure anymore. Doubtful though. I don't think I've read about a single one of those ever needing to actually be replaced. Usually the screws on the backing plate just need to be tightened up.

Does your car have the hill hold brake? If the noise goes away when the pedal is depressed slightly, it could be that the TOB is rattling around against the release lever. Putting slight pressure on the pedal pulls the TOB up against the fingers on the pressure plate which makes it stop rattling. There are some small clips that hold the TOB to the release lever and they frequently fall off after clutch jobs. Usually because they are old and the installer didn't bother to replace them, or they were installed incorrectly. Here's another idea that may help determine the source of the noise. Try slowly reving the engine in neutral, up to about 2500 rpm and back down, to see if the noise becomes apparent while sitting still. If the noise is produced at a certain RPM try to hold it there and push the clutch pedal in for a few seconds and see if it goes away. Release the pedal, see if it returns. Repeat the process a few more times to confirm.

You're supposed to keep your hands and fingers out of the way. Did you try to fit the new seal in the caliper at all? They usually have to be... persuaded. But then they fit nice and tight against the piston.

You bored it 0.50 over? You don't have any cylinder walls left! Just joshin ya, congrats on the successful build. Looks like a ton of fun. This is exactly right. Very rarely does an oil pump move enough volume at cranking speed (about 300 rpm) to build pressure in the system. You generally need about 450-500 rpm engine speed before you start getting a safe working pressure. Some people will remove the spark plugs from the engine prior to the first crank to allow the engine to rotate easier, moving more oil through the system. And creating less chance of scoring new bearings due to compression. I'll second this. Go find a Wix supplier in your area. http://www.wixfilters.com/

Maybe the clips on the TOB fell off? If you put your foot on the clutch pedal and push it just a bit, will the sound go away? Not enough to start disengaging, but just enough to feel some resistance when the TOB sets up against the pressure plate.

He said he did that. But he didn't say he changed the filter yet, which should have just been done at the same time as the oil. You can worry about that later. The seals on the front of the engine will start to leak anyway so you can change the belt when you have to remove it to change the seals. Clean any rust from the braking surface of the rotors with some sand paper and drive. Brake fluid should probably be flushed though. Don't forget the other oils; transmission, differentials, steering. And do a cooling system flush.

What's the difference between a 4 cyl and a V8? It's an engine. A 6 or 8 cyl just has a few extra cylinders. Rods through the block from seafoam Ive never heard of. But I would imagine it was due to hydrolock, or damage or fatigue that was going to cause failure regardless. No start with 7 year old gas? Gas isn't wine, it does NOT get better with age. Actually after about 3 months it's pretty well at the end of it's usable life for a car, and it will be starting to varnish and gum up the components of the fuel system. I wouldn't run it too much until you can confirm that the lifters and cams are getting oil. The oil delivery passages in the heads are pretty small, and can easily be clogged with sludge after sitting for so long. You need to pull the valve covers and start the engine and look for oil seeping from the cam bearings and rocker arms.

O2 sensors all work the same. But I do read from time to time that Subaru's don't get along well with Bosch O2 sensors. So that might be something to think about. So you can't get it to start at all now? It sputters and putt putts a little but just doesn't ever fire up? Battery has a full charge? Plenty of gas in the tank? Have you checked for spark? Checked timing marks?