Fairtax4me

High compression (when under boost) makes it harder for spark to jump the gap in the plug. Results in misfires, and increases the chance of detonation (which is VERY bad when combined with forced induction). Two ways to get around that, narrow the gap, or get a high energy ignition system. Guess which is easier and cheaper (and more reliable) to do? You definitely need some software that can monitor real-time data. This sounds like a MAF sensor issue (if it has one) but it could be anything.

Vultures I tell ya, vultures. So it looks like the rear cross member is different (different part number at least) on the OB, and there are some spacers between the cross members and frame. The transmission cross member appears to be different as well, and so it the pitch mount. Longer to account for lower engine position? Seems like other people who have done this swap haven't bothered to grab much or any of this and it all fit together fine though. I have a line on some 205/70 15 snow tires, wheels might be a trick to get ahold of (probably be watching CL for those) but I think I can pull this off. I'm excited about lifting the legacy now. Really gonna have to kick myself in the rump roast if those struts are gone!

Not after 96. 96 was the last year of the non interference stuff.

You know a pickle fork is supposed to be used as a wedge right? You hammer on th back of the handle to force it between the control arm and knuckle which prys the stud out of the control arm.

If you hit it hard enough. No actually the control arms are designed to bend in case of an up-close encounter with the ditch or curb to prevent damage to the frame of the car.

So will the SM3 work for anything OBD2 so long as you have the correct software? I had tried to get some info out of the Subaru service manager and he wasn't too enthusiastic about helping me. I would just ask one of the techs over there but haven't had the time to get to that side of town during working hours.

I did that on a car in the junkyard that i was trying to get a control arm off of and ended up bending the control arm. I just wanted the bushing off the back of it.

Might be a plugged/restricted EGR valve.

Did you sniff it? Was it black? Carbon + gas + misfire = wetplugs that might look like oil fouling.

That's usually how it is at the yards I go to. Wheels in decent shape are a pipe dream. Leather seats same story. And seems like headlights are a hot item too. Gonna be kicking myself for not grabbing the struts the first time around if they're gone.

They can be a real pita. Just separated one today to change a split cv boot. Removed the castle nut and pried down on the control arm while wailing on the knuckle with a 3lb hammer. Popped loose after a few good whacks. I've tried twice to get them out of the knuckles on both sides and have not had any luck. Probably gonna end up using a slide hammer on them when they finally need to be changed.

Not until you confirm the path of compression loss. Time for a leakdown test. 2 and 4 are the drivers side right? The intake cam sprocket on drivers side has the ring for the cam angle sensor. If the sprocket was the wrong one would the engine run at all? Or would it just give a code for the cam sensor? Or are you thinking the sprockets are correct, but the cams themselves are in the wrong place?

I really doubt you need to do any serious work to the block. Take a close look at the cylinder walls for wear before you go dragging it down to the machine shop. I'd be willing to bet the original (factory) hone is still there and is showing little signs of wear. Pop the rod ends off and remove the bearing assemblies yourself and figure out which one bit the dust, then inspect the crankshaft bearing surfaces for wear.

You have a wagon? Mine is a sedan. I get to have a LOT more fun installing the rears than the wagon people do. Whole back seat has to come out, some trim, seat belts. I've already replaced the rear struts once. The old springs were shot, and the struts were on their way. Took me 2 hours just to get the old ones out. Took me all of 30 minutes at the junkyard to get the replacements out of the wagon I took them from.

I've put some thought to this recently. There was a nice 97 outback in the yard last time I went and I didn't grab the struts because I didn't want to spend the money right then, but If it's still there I think I'm gonna grab them this weekend.

A timing light proves nothing as this has nothing to do with ignition timing. Compression on the other two sounds good, so it's either cam timing is off or the gasket didn't take. Did you follow the torque procedure to a T when tightening the head bolts?

First thought is the most common problem with these, incorrect cam timing. What was the compression in the other two cylinders? Is this a SOHC or DOHC?

Those tools don't ever work right anyway. I end up using vice grips half the time.

They usually have a spring to keep the adjuster from freewheeling and tightening or loosening on it's own while you drive. The equalizer is supposed to take up slack if one cable isn't as tight as the other. It helps "equalize" pressure on each drum to keep braking force even so one set of shoes isn't doing all the work. It could be that the drivers side cable is just slightly longer than the passenger cable, or has stretched more with time and use. Or it might be jammed and isn't returning properly. Or your passenger shoes aren't adjusted properly so that cable moves more when the park brake is engaged. Or a combination of several of these things.

No charging could be due to low/no voltage on the "field" wire. It's one of the wires in the plug that goes in the back of the alt. It has to receive at least 12v or it won't charge. It's a safety to keep it from overworking and burning out. I wanna say it's the white wire in the plug. Hopefully someone else can confirm that. Where did you buy the alternator? Subaru had trouble during a few years in the mid 90's and had to warranty a lot of alternators. 1stsubaruparts.com has the alternator you need for around $70+ shipping.

That's all that's around there. So now the question... why is it throwing sparks? Loose connection or broken wires? Does it change if the AC is on or off? I'm gonna venture to guess that it doesn't do it at all when the AC is off.

I looked again and noticed it says "Finish: Bright Satin w/Machined Lip" for the gunmetal colored wheels. So I guess they have the wrong pic up or something. I was thinking that for my car, which is white.

Bad ignition switch is possible. Doesn't seem common but I've seen a few threads about it, mostly on older cars though. Did you check all fuses and the fusible link? This might also be a bad relay somewhere.

Really? They don't look nearly as dark as what they do on the website. That might look pretty nice on a white car...

It's a good idea to keep dirt and moisture out to prevent corrosion but you can get away just fine without plugging the cooler.