Fairtax4me

Holy hell look at all that rust! I thought my truck was bad. The wheel is just a screw. If you can't see which direction the threads go you need to remove it, clean the crud off and re-grease it, then adjust after you put the rotor back on.

Wait are those silver or gunmetal? I didn't see where you said which ones you decided on.

I was thinking the same thing. But we haven't scared her away yet so shut up... I've seen this on every car forum I've ever read. When a girl shows up it's like the ice cream truck came around. Everybody has to run outside and drool.

Well... Valve springs are supposed to be a certain height and tension under a certain amount of compression. I believe the FSM for your year would have the info you need to check them against. Might take the head to a machine shop and have them check the springs out. As for that being the source of your noise. I really doubt it. I just don't see that little amount of play making that much racket. Weak valve springs will cause valve "float" at higher RPMs. A fun video about it. As for you links in the RS25 thread. The other video was determined to be the belt tensioner. Start pulling injector plugs to see if you get a change in noise with no combustion. You can pull plug wires if you want, but they bite pretty hard if you get too close.

Steelies in the closet... So when you decide to use them again, does that mean they'll "come out" ? Jk. You're no pioneer though, I stored two full sets of tires in the utility closet in my house for about 2 months. They were brand new though. That's been about 2 years ago and it still smells like a tire shop in there. I think the V engine block coffee table is a better conversation piece.

Did he hook the smoke machine up to it to look for leaks?

If the mounts were bad the engine would sit down lower which would pull the pipes away from the bottom of the car. If something is hitting the bottom of the car it should be obvious if you crawl under the car (put it on jack stands) and have someone start it.

No resistance testing on an O2 sensor. They create electric current, not restrict it. You can test resistance of the heater, but that's not going to change the output of the sensor. This page has great info for how to bench test. http://mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html Sure. It'll set a code, but defaults to failsafe fuel setting that will at least allow it to run, just pig rich.

Sounds like an electronics problem for sure. You might try to get a pressure gauge on it and see what you get for running pressure and if it changes for the worse when it kicks out of gear. But I'm gonna go the new TCU will probably fix it route.

I found a nice graph somewhere once, (I wanna say it was on Whiteline's website) that showed the relation between size and stiffness of various sway bar sizes. Thought so http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/010barup.pdf

I just couldn't come up with a reply right away. Hang around I'll get you back trust me. Why wait for a brat!? Chop the top and turn the back seats around. Instant brat!

Funny someone mentioned the Ford Escort in there. I just rebuilt the front calipers on my neighbors Escort and the lower slide pins were locked up tight. Had to clean the rust out of the guide holes out with a dremel. I've taken to using Wurth CU 800 spray on copper grease on brake parts. 2100° high temp enough? Seems to work well but I'll have to look at the label and see if it has anything detrimental to rubber parts in it. Works great on lug nuts though.

Sure it does! It's too small! Needs a lift kit and some 30" mudders if you ask me! Well you made it sound like you thought lowering springs would help with the roll. Plenty of other people out there seem to think that. Just wanted to make sure you knew. Sway bar links usually come separate, but you can find combo kits for a little extra $$$. Rallitek and Whiteline are probably the best for Subaru specific bars. I think there are some others out there too. Struts. KYB. Just stay away from Monroe.

What he said. Lots of things can cause a P0420, but since you have the ability to monitor specific components while the engine is running you should check their values to be sure they make sense for the conditions present. Frexample: If immediately after starting, your ECTS says the coolant temp is 30°F, but it's 75°F ambient outside temp, then the ECT isn't right. This throws off the fuel mixture which screws everything else up. Also, the O2 sensor output does not influence fuel mixture until the sensor reaches operating temp of about 600°F. So if the car is running poorly right from a cold start the O2 sensor is probably not the culprit.

Just lowering it won't make it roll less in corners. You'll just be closer to the ground. If the springs you choose have higher spring rate than the stock springs that will help reduce roll a little, but also make the car ride stiffer. Better shocks will help reduce roll more than different springs will. The best way to accomplish that is the Three Ss (No, not those three Ss ) Struts, springs, and sway bars. If you choose to do it in steps you should upgrade the rear bar first to help counteract the higher CG in the back of the wagon. You'll be less likely to plow in corners with a stiffer rear bar.

That one has the tensioner but no idlers. I'd be much more worried about the idlers than the tensioner. The stick style tensioners don't go bad unless they are compressed incorrectly.

I don't see why they wouldn't. The chassis is designated a VIN when it is stamped/formed before they even weld it together. Honda used different transmission mount brackets on the frame between manual or auto trans, at least in the early and mid 90s, don't know about 2000 and later models. Some also had holes in the firewall cut out for a clutch master cylinder, while others didn't. Nice thing about Rockauto is if you have a question about a particular part you can call them and ask for clarification and most of the time they can tell you one way or the other if it will fit. I do remember reading of certain models and/or years having different radiators in a thread on here some time ago.

That's a great observation. Let us know if this does fix the problem in the long run.

Trans was worked on? What was the reason for having it repaired before? Kinda sounds like the infamous main shaft bearing. But noises are kinda hard to diagnose over the net.

Need one of these. http://www.theautopartsshop.com/14856.htm

It looks a lot like a mid to late 90s legacy bumper. But which trim I don't know. The part where it meets the fenders isn't right, unless it has been trimmed to fit your car? And the lower grille doesn't look right either. Ahh, just saw you're in NZ. Probably one of those differences between markets. I like it though if you can find some headlights that match the curve of the bumper.

So you're saying that the part in the center of this pic is broken off? The whole balancer assembly does come off of the crankshaft easily when the center bolt is removed.

This would be a good thing on a Toyota. TPS, ECT, MAF sensors all come to mind first.

I'm pretty sure you can take a seat from an 09 Impreza and stick it in a 93 and it will fit no problem.

Lookin good. Wheels look nice too. No before pic? We don't get to check out the stylin' brown paint?