Fairtax4me

Which marks were used to determine that it was out of time to begin with?

I think you'll get chastised for that around here, but for your sake I hope they work out. As for knock sensor, grab the one off your old engine and use it. It was still good right?

You just have to turn it faster so the compression doesn't have enough time to leak out! Glad you found the root cause. Even if you have a service manual take a look at some of the threads around here with info for timing these beasts, there are plenty. Lots of people seem to mess that up so don't take it too hard. The fact you got any compression means the valves are probably OK, just need to get them in the right place at the right time. Good luck.

Can we ask why this idea came about in the first place? Something wrong with your current cat?

I've used a Vacula, which is the same thing pretty much. Either works just fine. But neither is necessary. You can do it easy enough with a one man bleeder kit, or just a section of clear plastic hose. The stupid little bottle they give you with those kits is useless IMO.

Looks like you got it. For future reference there is a shortcut button. It's the yellow icon with what looks like mountains on it and a stamp in the corner. The one right next to it does quotes.

Mostly what changes is flow through the radiator. The other parts of the system will still have flow regardless of thermostat position. I would assume that it would be greater than normal flow rate during the warm up period due to the vacuum created by the water pump. It normally pulls large amounts of coolant from the radiator, which can't be done if the thermostat is closed. This builds vacuum in the system on the "pull" side of the impeller, which will accelerate coolant flow from any other hoses or passages leading to the water pump. There will be a small amount of coolant moving in the radiator, but not a significant amount until the thermostat heats up and opens.

Yes, plain old rubber vacuum hose. I wanna say 1/8" I.D.

Well I've seen stranger things happen. Fuel, Spark, Compression. Pull the spark plugs and crank it (unplug the coil to prevent arcing from igniting fuel vapor). If you get fuel out of the spark plug holes, check for spark. If you got fuel and spark, check compression.

Yeah the field wire is in harness with the plug. The cable that's held on with the nut is the charge lead. Yes it is.

Chances are the crank seal is fine. If you have a leak it's about 99% going to be the separator plate. ("Lets make it cheap so it leaks and make it completely unaccessible so it's a royal PITA to fix!" [/ Subaru engineering dept. discussion]) Yes, it can be done with the engine still in the car.

Did you happen to unplug the cam or crank angle sensor while you were doing this work? Or hit it with a hammer or wrench by accident? What else did you change? Did you remove the cam sprockets for any reason?

Find a Napa near you and have them test it. But in the mean time, check all the ground connections on the engine and frame. Make sure ALL cables are tight and fee of corrosion. Check the main fuse panel cable as well.

Yeah not much way to see if it's bad other than being able to drive the car. Luckily it's not a difficult swap, just time consuming. When you remove the center diff the output shaft has to come out with it. They both just pull straight out though so it's pretty easy. Getting them back in is a trick, if you cock the bearing at all in the bore it will hang up and won't seat all the way. use plenty of fresh gear oil on the bearing race and the inside of the bore on reinstall to help it slide in easier.

That's a fun one. Knock sensor sounds possible. So does a dead TPS.

I was looking at those same wheels on tirerack. I like the gunmetal, but I wasn't sure how it would look on my white car. Yours is more the right color for those, but then you might end up with two shades of grey that don't work together.

Seems to me that if you ground the MT ID pin on the ECU it stops looking for all the AT related stuff? But either way. Except for the light being on the engine should run fine with no EGR. If it pings switch to mid grade fuel and you should be good to go.

Manual says 18ft lbs. No tightening order listed, but I always start in the middle and work out on aluminum parts. Broke a corner off of an intake manifold on a SBC 305 because I started on the outside. Got to the 3rd corner and CRACK.

I've seen that kind of rust on 7 year old Toyota pickup frames. It's not pretty. (the first of Toyota's recent major recalls)

Your center diff is shot. Search Torque Bind to get some more info. That's not a hard fix on the manuals. The transmission doesn't have to come out of the car. New parts ain't cheap though so plan on making a junkyard run. Are your front and rear tires the same size? Tread wear even?

Could he just go get the ECU out of the car he got the engine out of?

By taking the ground wire off, you let in some fresh air to mix up more magic smoke. Everything electrical runs on magic smoke. The smoke gets old after a while and doesn't quite have the same effect as when it was new, so taking apart a few connectors here and there will "renew" the magic smoke and let it start working again. If you let the magic smoke out then you're really SOL.

How many miles do you have on the "new" rotors?

A flare nut wrench usually works for me. But if they're really rusty stuck the wrench will just expand and round off the corners. (unless you buy some high end $150 wrench set, they might work better) That's when you get to use the vice grips. Or get out your favorite saw, cut the line, then put a socket on the nut and use an impact gun on it.

Yeah that sounds like the rotors are warped. It doesn't take long if you have excessive run-out. I'd take the rotors and have them turned. When you remove the rotors, grab a small wire brush and go to town on the hubs and remove ALL rust/scale buildup. Anything that isn't flat will cause the rotors to "wobble" as they spin which causes them to drag on the pads. It wears a small bit off here and there until eventually the rotor is no longer "flat". They make special shims to correct run-out but you need a dial rig to find out what the run-out is so you use the correct shims.