Fairtax4me

Toward the outside of the engine or more toward the center of the engine? You better be in a hurry to fix that leak if its from behind the timing cover. If that seal blows out completely you may lose all of the oil in the engine before you even know it. When the oil light turns on, oil pressure is under 5 psi, the engine is Out of oil and the oil pump is pumping air at that point. Pressure that low at 2,500 rpm cruising down the highway, bearings will be toast before you can shut the engine off. Not to mention oil on that new timing belt will ruin it.

Jack up the right rear corner of the car, take the wheel off, remove the couple of 10mm bolts that hold the stupid plastic cover on the fill tube and yank the cover off. Now if its rusted out you'll see where its rusty. Usually at the bottom of the bend.

Probably. Common for the compressor o-rings to leak. Go to a parts store and buy the big pack of green metric AC o-rings for like $8 and both of the compressor line O-rings should be in the pack.

Pump is fine if the car moves at all. If the pump were damaged you wouldn't make it out of the driveway. Its common for oil and fluids to burn off of the exhaust system after major engine or trans work. I've have cars smoke for days after a repair. Double check and make sure you don't have any NEW oil leaks, and as long as nothing is dripping under the car then it's either oil leftover from previous leaks or from doing the work. It should go away in a few days. You may have damage to some wiring for the trans where it runs over the top of the trans. If the trans was jacked up all the way to the firewall some wires could have been pinched. The AT temp light on means there is a code stored in the Trans control unit. There's a method to read the codes yourself, no special scanner required. Try googling Subaru TCU codes. Getting the trans codes will point you in the right direction.

The wild and wonderful world of auto repair! At least it didn't catch on fire! Was welding a patch in the floor board of a buddy's volvo a few weeks ago and suddenly there was a bunch of smoke billowing up from under the car. Then with a quick puff the smoke turned into a fireball and small fire that quickly grew into a big fire! Turns out I was welding right over top of where the fuel lines run under the car, and they were the black plastic lines, and they melted. The really funny part was we had to watch for a few seconds and decide if it was worth putting the fire out...

Depends on several factors. How much of the seat needs to be re-covered, what materials you choose, and what the labor rates are in your area. You'll have to call around and ask. Last I had an entire seat re-upholstered in cloth was several years ago and that was just under $200. For genuine leather you're going to pay much more than for cloth or vinyl. There are leather alternatives that look and feel very similar to leather but cost much less. Those are worth looking into if cost if a factor. A friend of mine had a side bolster repaired on her jeep recently. The cost for leather was over $150. She had it done in the fake leather stuff for about $90. That was for just one section on the seat. And the shop did remove and re-install the seat.

Plenty of auto upholstery repair places out there. Dealers often have seats repaired or have seats re-covered in leather or vinyl. Call your local dealer and ask where they have their upholstery work done. If the foam in the seat is worn out a good upholstery shop can usually replace it, but not always. Used seats are an option but can be kind of a crap-shoot. I've not seen any company offer an aftermarket seat for these that is not for racing purposes.

It's not "unnecessary", because even though the system is small air and moisture in the system does lower the cooling efficiency, but the difference is small enough that it usually doesn't matter. The drier can usually remove enough water from the system to cancel any effects it may have. Air in the system raises the system pressure and decreases its ability to cool. Removing the air by vacuuming or purging the system returns it to its optimal efficiency, but the difference is small enough with most systems that most people will probably never notice. Too much moisture in a system can cause icing to occur on the expansion valve or orifice tube and cause it to stick or totally freeze over and become blocked. This generally only happens if the desiccant in the drier has been exposed to high humidity atmosphere for a long period and has become saturated. On a system that has been open for a long time, the drier should be replaced, even if you have the system vacuumed. Last one I bought was $15 on rockauto. Might not be that cheap for every subaru, but in general they don't cost very much.

Front diff fluid on the the right side. Sticks out just behind the bellhousing a little above the axle. Auto trans fluid is on the left side below/behind where the heater hoses stick off the back of the engine.

Bracket bolts to the block. 3 bolts and a wiggle and falls off. $38.50 brand new on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/OEM-Subaru-tensioner-Bracket-13156AA052/dp/B00F57PVFW Somebody around here probably has a used one or three. Post in the classifieds.

Ok, if that didn't make the temp guage work, unplug the wire from the sensor, ground it to the engine on clean metal and turn the key on. The temp guage should rise to the top. If it rises, the temp sensor is bad. If it still doesn't move there could be a wire problem between the guage and the sensor, the guage may not be getting power, or the guage could be faulty.

Ordered the Walbro. Figure once this engine decides to go (compression on #4 keeps getting lower), it will probably get a 2.5 or maybe larger, and I won't have to even think about fuel supply, because it will certainly be there.

Car-part.com

Good to hear its working well! Should be a good runner for another 100k easy!

Never heard of it being a problem. Subaru sold them that way from the factory. Don't they have drain holes in them?

I wanna say that a 95 trans should bolt in and plug in no problem. Sometime in the later 90s the electronics changed, and the plugs on the trans harness changed as well. If the plugs are the same shape, should plug in and work. Somewhere around here in internet land somebody has done this I'm sure.

If the 99 is a 2.2 that should be a phase 2 motor. The 2.5 should drop in no problem. Might need to use the 2.2 manifold and wire harness on it.

If the compressor has failed internally it has thrown metal particles though the condenser all the way to the filter drier. The condenser on these cant be flushed due to the design of the core. It has to be replaced if it has metal in it. There's no way to completely remove all of the metal from the condenser. You can flush the hoses with an AC flush solvent. The drier and condenser need to be replaced.

97 pistons will physically fit, but you probably need the rods with them. You can use 96-99 DOHC heads on your 2.2 to get slightly lower compression. Need the 96-99 DOHC manifold for those heads. The wire harness for that manifold will plug into your cars harness.

Proportion valve should be fairly high up, so air in the lines can usually rise toward the top. When you remove the lines from the valve be sure to quickly cap them so the fluid doesn't all run out of the reservoir. You'll make 100x more work for yourself if the reservoir runs empty. Put the new valve in and gravity bleed it with the lines loosened slightly. Then bleed the brakes at each wheel as you normally would.

Normally a brake pad rattle will stop as soon as you press the brake pedal. Pull the wheel off and see if you can move the brake pads easily up/down in the caliper bracket with your finger. If you can, the anti-rattle clips need to be replaced.

On the bottom of the hood there's a sticker that says if the car is CA emisions or federal (48 state) emissions. Assuming the hood is original. You need a scanner that will read live data so you can see signals from each individual O2 sensor.

How old are the belts age-wise? If it took 5 years to get 35k on it they probably need to be replaced. If that was all in one year then they may just need to be tightened.

Good to know that, thanks for the tip. Haven't had a chance to pull the unit yet. Too much going on over the weekend.

Would do that, except the yards around here use something like the jaws of life to tear holes in the fuel tanks to drain them. Damages or completely destroys the fuel pump/sender units when they do it.