Fairtax4me

Its sucking oil in from somewhere. PCV is usually the most likely in my experience with Toyota and nissans doing similar to this, but I haven't had a Subaru do it. Is there any pattern to when it happens? Cold start? Warm start? Drive for 10 minutes, stop then start an hour later?

Those teeny bolts are about 5 ft lbs. Snug is tight enough. Also, be sure you use an original Subaru gasket. Its a rubber coated metal gasket. Easier to install and you know when it has enough torque because the gasket crushes in a way that you can feel when you tighten the bolts. Paper gaskets will deteriorate and leak sometimes in less than a year.

Is the hood original? Vin sticker matches the dash? Have seen the purge valves leak several times and allow engine vacuum to pull on the evap canister all the time when the engine is running. Pull the hose off of the T fitting that goes to the purge valve with the engine running and check if vacuum is pulling through the valve. If it is, try swapping the vacuum source hose to the opposite port on the valve.

Like chux said, once you get air in the MC it's almost impossible to get it all out without bench bleeding. At times I've had to resort to unbolting the MC from the booster and pulling it forward and pushing the front of the MC down so any air in the bore can get up through the vent port and back into the reservoir.

That's the rear subframe. I wouldn't trust that to hold up much longer. It's not exactly substantial to begin with. Find a whole rear end from a junkyard car. Try Car-part.com.

Cel will turn off after a few key cycles if the conditions that set the code don't re-occur during that time. The number of cycles can vary depending on the severity of the code. Fewer cycles, lower severity. The code is still stored in the ECU. Get it read so you know what it is. It's not smart to ignore a problem even if its intermittent.

I would say the new TPS was probably bad. Was your meter grounded to the battery? Originals are Hitachi and tend to last forever. I've not had to replace one.

High pressure and a moaning expansion valve means there is air and moisture in the system. The valve is moaning because moisture is freezing on the outlet. Last I dealt with this was on a 95. The charge was low, and after re-filling the moan was reduced but not gone. Replaced the filter drier and vacuumed the system for about 2 hours to make sure there was no moisture in the system. Refilled and no more moan. If you don't want to release the refrigerant into the air (doesn't really hurt anything if you do) take it to a repair shop that has an AC recovery machine and have them evacuate the system before you replace your parts. Most likely you only need to replace the drier and have the system vacuumed.

External head gasket leaks. At 219k its likely had them replaced already, which means you shouldn't have any problems with them again. No easy way to put a pre-99 engine in there. Once you break that 99 barrier the non-interference bullet proof 2.2 is out the window. If you know an electrical engineer who can fool the idle control system and re-work the ignition control wiring it could probably be done, but its not gonna be an easy drop in.

There's a funny o-ring that goes in the back corner of the oil pan on the tube that runs up to the bottom of the oil separator. Did you replace that o-ring? Normally it causes high oil consumption, so I'm no sure that would be your problem, but I ask just to try to rule it out. Were the valve covers hot tanked? If the baffle inside one is clogged you can get oil sucked into the breather tube. Breather tubes are clean and clear? Separator plate was replaced? Is the tube going into the separator clean? PCV hose and the Y are clean?

How does it seem more stretched? The orginal Subaru bolts can typically be reused several times.

More common place for leaks than the evaporator are the lower corners of the condenser. It will corrode and leak slowly down at the bottom where it's hard to see. Also common for the shrader valves to leak at the service ports. Make sure you have both caps on tight and that both have the rubber seat still in the top of them. On a 90 degree day I would expect to see pressures around 200 on the high side 30-35 on the low. On a hotter day it will be higher.

Junkyard it. Probably just the bearing in the front that has gone bad, but if that gets bad enough it can cause the bushing at the back of the pump to wear. And if its wobbling its possible the pump rotor is getting worn as well. Those pumps are always around in junkyards because they really don't fail that often.

Gaskets won't seal with that bolt broken. Pull the pump off. If there's enough bolt left to grab with a pair of pliers do that. If its flush with the block mating surface, you should be able to get a dremel with a cutoff wheel in there and grind a shallow notch in the center of the bolt. Use a narrow flat screwdriver to turn the bolt out. Just be very careful not to marr the gasket mating surface.

Yes

Sounds more like symptoms of a bad ECT sensor. ECU thinks the engine is cold so its flooding it with fuel. Try starting with the gas pedal on the floor to clear the cylinders.

95 L manual is 3.90. So you'll need trans and diff. Autos were 4.11. Unless you're running larger than stock sized tires on the outback you probably won't notice much difference.

It has the cone style IAC valve right? Those fail often and cleaning doesn't fix them. I would replace that if you haven't yet.

Could be a cat code but you'll have to get it read to know for sure. Yes, the cruise light will blink any time the CEL comes on, regardless of which codes are set.

Do not allow oil to get on the mating surfaces or gasket. A few drops are all that's needed on the threads and put a drop on the washer at the top before tightening the bolts. Gaskets only go on one way. If you put it on backwards the oil feed port will not line up.

It looks like there is some slight pitting around where the fire ring sits on the head at the top of that picture. Lay the new gasket on the head and draw a line with a permanent marker on the inside edge of the fire ring. Then remove the gasket and see how close that is going to be to the ring. If any pitting is directly under the ring that will cause it to not seal properly and you'll be doing it again. Either continue sanding until that puttin is gone or have a machine shop mill it down. Shouldn't take much, probably only .003-.004".

Machine shop intake mine to charges $40 per head. But he uses a machine and usually does them while I wait. I've seen some shops that use stone type milling machines and the results are not usually very good.

ECU only reads the crank and left side cam sprocket. Get the cam sprocket from a 90-98 2.2. It fits the 2.5 just the same. Crank sprocket can come from either 2.2 or 2.5 from 90-99. Need a cam sprocket with 7 reluctor teeth on the back. Need a crank sprocket with 6 reluctor teeth on the back. This assumes that your car is in fact a 99. Can you post your VIN? That will tell for sure.

Of the 2.2s i've done head gaskets one that's pretty much where they have all failed. They wont mix coolant and oil, they wont smoke, or at least not a huge amount. If they smoke at all its barely noticeable. The heads are very tricky to get out and back in while the engine is in the car. It does help to loosen the mounts and raise the engine. Remember to remove the pitch rod dogbone on top of the trans before you lift. The Fel-pro gaskets for that engine are the exact same as what you would get from a dealer, but at half the price. Even have the FHI logo stamped on them. Your dowel pins stayed in the block which is good. When you put the new gaskets on hang them from the dowel pins while you angle the head down into the engine. Also, those gaskets that are on it are not original. They've been replaced before. Be sure to have the head surface machined so you get the best chance for a good seal.

Did you remove the fuel hoses from the engine? The fuel system can take several key cycles to fully prime after replacing the filter. How many times have you started it?