Fairtax4me

Does it stick open or closed?

Subaru is the only one with the tools to reprogram it, and you'll likely have to get the car there. Question: Did you check to see that 12v is getting to the ECU on the ground pin for injector 1? You need to verify that to rule out a bad connection or broken/damaged wiring. If you do not have voltage to that pin, there's a break in the circuit, a new ECU will do no good.

You had probably the rarest part failure that a Subaru can have. I've replaced one. It failed because someone unplugged it and lost the rubber grommet seal that's in the connector. Moisture got in and all the pins rusted together. Other than that I think I've only ever heard of one or two actually failing due to an internal problem. Why don't you hear about it in other makes? Other manufacturers call it an ignition control module, and they die all the time. Better part is that most of the time when they conk out on other vehicles, the engine doesn't start at all.

Still won't have spark. Funny you mention it though, They actually had carburetted EJs with distributors in some other countries. Mostly older stuff, but I think places in South America had carbs until the late 2000s. There are some pics of them in the "Strange Subru Stuff" thread in off-topic.

If you get creative enough you can probably come up with something. The ends of the screws have a little ball on them that fits into a plastic cup type clip that pushes into the lamp housing. When the screws get rusty they expand and seize to the clips at each end and can break the clips if you try to force them to turn, and the clips almost always break if you try to remove them.

The screws can be replaced, but good luck finding them. I found some years ago but had to buy them and the plastic clips for them through Toyota. The early 90s Camry used the same screws.

[16 15. [x] [x]14. 13.[x] [x] 12. 11 [x] [x]10. 9 [______] 8. 7 [x] [x] 6. 5 [x] [x] 4. 3 [x] [x] 2. 1] Starting at 16 yellow/blue 15 yellow/blue > ECU power 14 yellow/white > igniter control 13 yellow/purple > igniter control 12 Black 11 White/Yellow > idle air control 10 empty 9 empty 8 white 7 black > crank sensor 6 green 5. Red > cam sensor 4 empty 3 empty 2 brown > injector 1 1 light green > injector 2 17 and 18 are the blue wires directly under 1 and 2 and are injector 4 and 3 respectively Yes you should have blinks from a noid light with each revolution of the engine during cranking. GD brings up a good point about the timing belt. You mentioned lack of spark at some point in the thread, and that combined with the lack of fuel injection trigger could mean jumped timing. If the cam and crank signals are not in sync the ECU will not trigger fuel or spark. The belt doesn't have to be broken. A weak tensioner will allow the belt to skip without breaking. You mention there are no timing covers on it, so it's easy to turn the crank to its timing mark and just verify that the cams are also at their proper marks.

If water got in the ECU, it got in the wire harness too and corrosion will eventually cause so many problems you'll wish you just got rid of it. It won't be reliable, and unless you pulled all the carpet out immediately to get it dry you'll have problems with rust in the floors and mold/mildew in the carpet, seats, and any area where moisture collected and wasn't drained/dried immediately after.

Needs NGK plugs and NGK wires first. Just because they "look ok" doesn't mean they're not the problem. If they're old, replace them. Are the boots of the plug wires covered in oil? If so it needs valve cover gaskets as well. You messed with the TPS it's going to need readjustment. Need a digital voltmeter to check voltage on the center wire. At closed throttle adjust so it shows 0.50 volts.

You have 12v getting all the way to the ECU? Injectors are grounded at the ECU so if you have 12v getting to the ECU on the wire for injector 1, the wires/connectors are fine, ECU has a fault. Something to be sure to check for is a short to power on the ground side of the circuit, that is best accomplished by unplugging the injector and checking for voltage at the ECU. If there is a short to voltage on that driver circuit it can damage the ECU. Also make sure the resistance of that injector is within the same range as the others. Low resistance increases current through the circuit and current (amperage) is the killer of electronics.

Computer uses input from the cam sensor to determine when to trigger the injectors. Similar manner, but not at all related to ignition timing. I'm not sure what type of reluctor the cam sprockets have on the H6. Onthe ~02+ 4 cyl a there are only two notches on the cam wheel that signal the ECU to start the injection sequence, they're aligned roughly with TDC for number 1. It then uses the crankshaft angle to time out the rest of the firing sequence. If you have voltage to the injector, the ground side somewhere between the injector and the ECU may be open, or have a poor connection. Generally if this happens it will be at the main harness connectors on the bellhousing. Check for dirt, bent pins, and make sure they're clicked together all the way (push HARD).

95-98 alternators are all the same Afaik, with the exception of the higher output alts for the Outbacks. I don't remember off hand exactly which wire goes where on the alt. There's only two choices...

Take the AC belt off and spin the tensioner bearing. That's the usual suspect. Should be a 6204 RSJ. About $10 at Napa. Can be knocked out and the new one knocked in with the proper sized socket.

I've seen that gasket on a few of these engines. Those are some kind of aftermarket crap. Dunno what brand they are but they are absolute.... They literally fall apart in less than a year. Agreed with GD. The damage done was possibly due to previous overheating. The problems you were chasing were due to the crap head gaskets that were put on it.

If you know the fluid is clean just a single drain/fill is all that's needed. Do that every 15k along with the scheduled oil change. Change the filter around 60k. If fluid is questionable do three drain fills, then follow the single change every 15k afterwards. Then you never really have the problem of horribly old/worn fluid. I don't bother with trying to disconnect ATF cooler lines. The more you mess with the hoses the more likely they are to split and spray your fluid out all over the place. Kills the trans before you even realize anything is wrong. Subarus have drain plugs and that makes it easy. On vehicles that don't have drain plugs I use a fluid evacuator. Filling is usually the hard part. I use a 1qt capacity funnel with a 1/2" hose stuck on the end, a reducing barb fitting to a 3/8" hose about 12" long. Just long enough to stick into the dipstick tube and have a snug fit so it won't leak. let the funnel rest on hoses, wires, etc. Flip a quart of fluid upside down in the funnel and it drains itself into the trans without needing attention.

Large connectors often have some kind of numbering system on them, and it often doesn't match the Pinout diagrams used in service manuals. FORGET the numbers printed ON the connector. Identify the pins BY WIRE COLOR, and work from there. Also, calm down! Don't give yourself a damn coronary trying to figure this out. This thing ain't rocket science and you're not trying to learn Hungarian. It's wires and a box, step back and drink a beer or five look at it from a different angle.

The dimming happens because there is voltage drop between the battery and headlamps when there is an extra load put on the supply. Upgrade your headlamp harness to a switched positive style harness with relays near the battery and that won't happen as much. It will still happen to some degree no matter what you do, simply because of the way lead acid batteries discharge energy. Whenever a sudden high current load is placed on the battery (brake lamps, power window motors, hi amp subwoofer,etc) the battery voltage will drop temporarily. Ypu will see that voltage drop visually as the change in light output from the headlamps because you're looking at the light output directly. It happens in every other circuit on the car as well, you just don't visually see it.

Well you don't get much choice with an automatic. About half the fluid is in the torque converter and there is no way to drain that without removing it. There is also fluid in the tail housing and in the clutch drums that doesn't all drain out. A couple of drain and fills is the best you can do unless you have a fluid machine and even then you need about 16 quarts to ensure 95% of the old fluid gets run out. Buy a case, do three drain and refills. Change the spin-on filter on the last one.

I've had to replace a trans because the TOB ate through the pressure plate and the release fork got hung up, spun around, and wrecked the bellhousing (knocked chunks out of it). That's kind of an extreme case of abad release bearing ruining a trans. If that happened it would have been accompanied by a very loud crash of metal on metal, and likely stalled the engine. I agree, the shop needs to explain in better detail exactly what's wrong with the trans.

I wouldn't consider an AGM battery an upgrade. Buy a new battery from your Subaru dealer I bet it's cheaper than $135. Last one I bought listed for $85, had like a 72 month warranty.

Was the engine low on coolant? If it's low on coolant the temp sensor can't read anything. Coolant can be 260°+ and if it doesn't cover the sensor the sensor won't show there's anything wrong.

What input is pin 81? If you have voltage at the injectors when cranking, check for voltage to fluctuate on the ground side at the injectors, then check for voltage fluctuating at the ECU pins for the injectors.

That is just horrible advice. You should absolutely never do that on modern vehicles with computers. Especially if you suspect the alternator has a problem. Good way to blow $1500.

Sometime in the mid 2000s the fan On temp was raised to 212. Dodge/jeep stuff of that era, fans turn on around 220-225.

I should rephrase/clarify what I said earlier. A noid light tells you basically two things: Either you have BOTH voltage AND ground (light blinks) Or you Do NOT have voltage, or ground, or possibly both (light does not blink) But it cannot tell you WHICH ONE you don't have. This is where the multimeter comes into much better use, and why I personally don't even own a set of noid lights. The injectors have constant power when the key is On. The ECU grounds the circuit to pulse the injectors. In the case of this particular Subaru, It grounds each one individually in sequence (Sequential port fuel injection) with the firing order. And yes, the injectors SHOULD be pulsed while the engine is cranking. Otherwise it won't start (which is the exact problem we have in this thread). Back to injector power/ground. You're missing one or the other, or maybe both. ECU and injectors are both powered through the Main relay, along with the ignition coil and a handful of other things. So to break it down, check for power reaching the injectors during cranking. You only need to check one, they all share the same power. You can also check for power reaching the coil on the center wire (yellow IIRC) during cranking. You should have power at both with key On, AND during cranking at key Start. No Power at all, look to the main relay. Power with key On, but not when cranking, look to the ignition switch.