Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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The "flappy thing" is the release lever for the clutch. Its fairly common for the release lever to crack at its pivot point inside the transmission bellhousing. It doesn't look like the release lever is situated properly in the pic, I would guess that it's broken inside. Unbolt and place the slave cylinder off to the side, Pull the rubber dust boot up and off of the lever, then bolt the slave cylinder back in place. Look inside the bellhousing with a light while someone pushes the clutch pedal and you may be able to see where the lever is cracked. -
For just a couple minutes, it won't hurt a thing. Gotta remove the compressor anyway eventually, the system will be open for longer when you do that.
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Probably just the pulley seized. I would recommend removing the lines from the top of the compressor and checking them for any metal flakes.
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Post in the classified section here. Plenty of people here have spares that they'll sell for less than going to a junkyard. Get them for a 99 engine.
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Alright then, disparity of the vehicle it cam from aside, if that harness plugged in correctly then You have to pull the timing belt off and swap the crankshaft timing sprocket and the left side (drivers) camshaft timing sprocket with the ones from your old engine. Around 00-01 they changed the number of teeth on the back edge of the sprockets that the crank and cam sensors read. Your ECU is getting confused by incorrect crank and cam signals, so you're not gonna get a spark. Swap those two sprockets and you should be good.
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Don't clean inside the joint. Washing the grease out will cause the joint to fail. A split boot is only a temporary fix. Meant to last a couple weeks at best. Truthfully, I wouldn't even bother. If the joint 's already clicking, you need to replace the axle. If you need a couple weeks, just keep driving it until you can get a new axle. If the boot has been split so long that dirt and sand have got in the joint, packing new grease into the joint and sticking a split boot on it will only shove the dirt and crud further in and will cause even more wear.
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Did the pulley seize or did the hub seize? If just the pulley seized then you can just pop a new compressor on and recharge it. If the compressor seized internally there's a good chance the rest of the system is full of metal, which means there's a good chance the new compressor will fail quickly if you don't flush out the lines and replace the condenser and filter/drier at the very least. Take the lines off the compressor and check for metal flakes in them. Any metal at all in the system will ruin a new compressor in short order.
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Holder cable is too tight. Clutch cable should have about 1/4" of free play at the lever. Adjust that properly first, then pull the top of the lever forward (toward the engine) and adjust the holder cable until it just barely starts to pull the lever on the holder. Tighten the locknut and it should be good to go. If it doesn't hold enough, adjust it tighter a half turn at a time.
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Its a 3 wire TPS right? Back-probe the center wire of the TPS connector with a paper clip, key On, adjust the TPS until you get between 0.50 - 0.55v at the center pin.
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Nope. When they get rusty they don't play. Some persuasion with a hammer on the area the bolt goes through may help bust some of the rust loose. Plan on it breaking and needing to be drilled out.
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Maybe someone stuck WRX stickers on a plain Impreza. But anyway, which wire harness did you use? The 99 or the 02?
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Leakdown test will tell you if its a valve or piston. I would be tempted to just drop a lower mileage engine in it.
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WRX with a 2.5 would be an STI turbo and that engine wasn't available in the US in 02. If you got a non-turbo SOHC 2.5 it had to come from an Impreza Rs, Ts, or an Outback Sport. WRX would have been a 2.0 turbo. DOHC So did you do a turbo swap, or use a non-turbo SOHC 2.5?
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That's just what the plastic tanks do when they get old. Happens on every car. Can only replace the whole radiator. 800radiator Radiator barn Rockauto All good sources for radiators at much lower cost than local parts stores.
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When the caliper locks up and you just keep ridin. Might be a little thin...
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What year WRX did the engine come out of?
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http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2043178&cc=1305504&jnid=348&jpid=35
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Kinda sounds head gaskety. Block test don't work on these. Need a leak-down test to confirm a bad head gasket. Shouldn't have any real problem getting air out of that engine. Fill it, let it run until the cooling fans cycle on and back off and the thermostat opens, then turn it off and let it cool. Top off if necessary. Thermostat should be Subaru OE or an OE similar design. The cheapos can cause more problems.
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Most suspension bolts and nuts on these are 10.9 metric grade. As long as it threads on it will be fine. Typically before I take a car for alignment I loosen and/or remove any bolts that I know they will need to adjust and put antiseize on them.
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Where did you buy the calipers? Did they come with new mount brackets and slide bolts?
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What year and model is it? And where did you get the info you posted above? P1325 for Subaru is knock sensor low input.
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Switch the #6 coil with the one next to it and see if the code follows the coil.
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That's kind of a balogna test. I can get just about any car moving from a stop in second gear. 5th gear doing about 55-60 mph put the gas pedal on the floor and see if the engine speed goes up while the vehicle speed does not. Release point is high because that's how hydraulic clutches work. Not sure on adjustment, but if its adjustable it will be on the pushrod from the pedal to the master cylinder.
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Delta cams are popular choice for the older 2.2 engines. Lots of people here run them, myself included. I've thought the same about sticking a twin screw on top of a subaru manifold. Big pulley and a triple-flap bug catcher sticking out of the hood. Wouldn't sound as cool as a big v8 though.
