Fairtax4me

For the majority of cars it doesn't matter. The major difference in summer vs winter gas is its volatility. Basically its ability to vaporize. Winter gasoline blends are designed to vaporize more easily because cold air makes it harder for the fuel to vaporize. Remember, it's the vapor that burns. The ECU may see a difference in oxygen content in the exhaust. But it will adjust to that within a few seconds. You may have a problem running summer gas in the middle of winter on a below freezing day. You may have a problem running winter gas in summer on a 100° day. In the middle times you shouldn't notice a difference.

Then those plugs just don't agree with the waste spark system. Try NGK laser platinum. Those are often recommended for that engine.

What did you torque the axle nut to? Sometimes an old bearing with new axle/new torque on it will run a little warm for a couple trips.

There's a small filter before the pump? What kind? How small? I would bypass the first filter and see what you get for pressure without it.

What's the part number on the plug? Looks like what I've seen from platinum plugs when the platinum gets knocked off the electrode during gapping. Did you use a gap tool on those?

Are there any extra wires added on to the positive battery terminal? An aftermarket amp power wire is normally run straight to the battery.

Assuming all the plugs are the same type and same age, yes, the ignition coil actually does cause that. It's just a trait of the waste spark ignition system. The plugs on one side wear the center electrode heavily. Plugs on the other side will wear the ground electrode.

Cel on? What codes?

That's just brace they added on to the mid 2000 models. Not really sure what its for, though I've just assumed that it has something to do with front impact protection. Yes, it is a factory part of the car. Yes, it simply unbolts (easier said than done in rust prone areas). Find some used ones, or do like Gary said and just chuck 'em.

Bet you're gonna have to cut that bolt.

Assuming they even used a fuse. Have seen quite a few jack-leg stereo amp installs wired straight to the battery with no fuse. The radio not working may be a clue though. There are wires for the left rear door that run under the drivers seat, and one of the speaker wires may be damaged. Have to remove the front seat and the rear bottom seat cushion and all of the lower trim on the left side in order to pull the carpet up to get a look at what's under there.

Do you get 12v on both sides of the link? Measuring across it doesn't tell you much. Keep your meter grounded to the battery negative and check voltage on each side of the link. Also remove the SBF fuses in the underhood panel and check them. They may not appear blown but can still be broken. SBF2 supplies power to the main relay, ECU, and fuel pump relay.

Did the wire appear burned? Does it have power seats? I don't remember there being anything else under the drivers seat except maybe an amp for the stereo system. That would be a fairly large black box. You'll need to finding which part burned and the reason why the burn happened. It's still a fire hazard until you find out the actual cause and at the very least remove the fuse for that circuit. Then you should repair the wire or component.

Have had to replace a couple of the clips that hold the latch rod on the door handle and they are a royal pain. I can get the back 10mm nut off but I don't bother to put it back. Doesn't make a huge difference and the lock cylinder is pretty well held in place by the funny little clip anyway.

Fwd struts are about 1/4" longer from perch to the bottom mount hole. The brake line mount is on the opposite side. The valve rate is slightly different because the FWD cars weigh less. The biggest difference is the clocking of the lower spring perch. FWD struts the perch is clocked in the center because the strut flange of the FWD knuckle is centered directly above the center of the spindle (center of the wheel). The AWD knuckle strut flange is about 2" forward of the axle center. Because of that, the spring perch is clocked toward the rear, which roughly centers the spring above the wheel, but the strut body itself is angled a few degrees toward the rear of the car. Does it make a difference as far as handling, probably not. Or at least not noticably for the average daily driven car. It does make a different for mounting, because the upper mount is designed to match the angle of the strut. Though I think as long as you match the upper mount to the car it shouldn't cause any undue stress on the mount.

Might just be the tensioner idler bearing for the AC belt. It's the small pulley below the compressor. Those fail pretty often and can be replaced. Yes the belt can simply be removed. It only drives the AC compressor, so nothing else will be affected by running without it.

Could be a burned out ignition switch. Does the radio work in key On? Does it work in key Acc?

Don't worry about the coil pack. They almost never go bad. If you're gonna get one get a used Diamond pack. Aftermarket coils are junk IMO. I don't like auto lite plugs. Never have had good luck with them. NGK V-power are like $2.49 each and always work. FPR has vacuum on it at idle and it lowers the fuel pressure. As throttle opens vacuum drops and the FPR closes and fuel pressure goes up. If fuel pressure isn't staying up around 45 psi even under heavy throttle the pump may not be supplying enough pressure. 35 is too low for full throttle.

Yeah vehicle speed on your scanner is the same what the ECU sees. If the plugs and wires are old those should have been the first thing. The old 2.2s need copper plugs. None of that fancy platinum stuff. NGK V-powers work great. Don't cheap out on wires. They need good wires or you'll get misfires. NGK wires are best if you can get them. I've used Carquest and Napa house brand wires in the past and had good luck with those. I have a set of Denso plugs and wires on my 96 right now waiting to see how well they hold up.

Out of balance tire will certainly cause that. I would guess the transverse bushing on the back of the control arm is bad. Those are very difficult to tell just by pushing/pulling around. They are filled with silicone fluid and when the fluid leaks out the bushing can move around a lot when the car is driving but is still very hard to move by hand. If the bushing looks greasy it needs to be replaced. Luckily that bushing can normally be replaced without affecting alignment.

Is that a speed sensor? Where is it installed? The ECU does use vehicle speed for certain things. How far off is it? Fuel pressure seems a little low but its consistent. Could just be an in actuate guage. Aftermarket pumps aren't the greatest but that ones for a larger engine it should be able to provide enough fuel for the 2.2.

You're using a Subaru ECU right? And it's from a 95, correct? I can't seem to get smallcar.com to open. What product you using from small car? If it's giving a 5 pulse speed signal to the ECU that could be causing a problem since the speed reading would be off by 25%.

Mono steering wheel would have come from a newer Impreza I think. I don't remember that being an option on a 99, though I could be wrong. Probably bought it on eBay and put it in the car. If the wiring seems to all be there. (Switch on the dash is connected, wheel switch is connected, brake and clutch switches) then you should be able to get the servo and vacuum pump and finish the install and have cruise control.

Alignment shop is supposed to check all of the front end parts before doin an alignment. Loose ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings and such will not allow them to properly align the wheels because every time they make an adjustment and then re-check it the adjustment will be wrong again. Does the clunk happen when you hit a bump? Is it a once every now and then clunk? Or is it a repetitive clunk? Does the clunk get faster with higher speed? Is there a vibration when you get to a certain speed? Typically an out of balance tire will cause a vibration at around 60-65 mph.

Hoses on the intake tube loose. Intake tube clamps loose. Airbox not assembled properly. The 99 and up also tend to have some issues with re-learning idle settings after the battey has been disconnected. Check over all of the wiring and hoses you had unhooked during the work and make sure that's all connected properly first. If all of that checks out, disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes. Reconnect battey and start the engine, let it idle on its own. DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL to keep idle speed up. If the engine stalls, turn the key off, restart it, and just let it idle so the computer can figure itself out. Allow it to idle until the cooling fans cycle on then back off. If its a cool day this might take a while. Once the cooling fans turn off, turn the engine off and let it cool for about an hour. After an hour, restart the engine, let it idle for about 10 minutes, again no gas pedal. If it stalls just restart it. After 10 minutes take it for a drive, about 15-20 minutes in a residential area. Park it, turn the engine off, wait a minute or so, restart and take it for a drive on the highway where you can sustain at least 45 mph speed for 10 minutes or so, then drive it home park it and let it cool off. If you follow that correctly the ECU should relearn proper fuel trims for idle and cruise and you shouldn't have any trouble after that. If you still have the problem after that, something was overlooked like a loose vacuum hose or you have a coincidental problem such as a dirty IAC or dirty throttle body or some other air/fuel issue.