Fairtax4me

NPR rings on eBay are like $50. Only place I would consider pistons other than the dealer would be a custom order from one of the performance piston makers like Wiseco. Gonna spend a big chunk more for those than getting new from a dealer. The cheaper ones are a crap-shoot.

Oil starvation. Squealing was probably the cam eating the bearing journals in the cylinder head. Passenger cylinder head is the last in line to get oil. Either the oil got very low, or something got sucked into the oil passage and caused an obstruction that prevented oil from getting to the head.

Fuel pressure should be about 35 psi at idle. Should go up to 42-45 with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected. Driving should see 35 psi while cruising, should go up to around 42-45 when under heavy acceleration. If pressure doesn't go up when accelerating, or drops below 35psi, fuel pump could be going bad or there may be a restriction in the fuel supply line or filter. Yes there is a speed sensor on the trans and one in the instrument cluster. Instrument cluster sensor takes the 8 pulse signal from the trans and cuts it down to a 4 pulse signal that sts sent to the ECU. If the ECU gets an 8 pulse signal it will think you're good twice as fast as you really are and could engage the speed limiter. Should be able to see vehicle speed on your scanner.

Yup. Those things are life savers. Takes the guess work out of filling up a radiator. Especially on GM cars and Chryslers.

Is it showing 0.0 ohms or is it showing O.L? O.L is Over Limit and indicates the circuit is open, or not connected electrically. This could be because the heater element is burned out. O.L could also be due an incorrect range selection on your meter. 0.0 ohms is low/no resistance and shows that the wiring for the element may be shorted together inside the sensor. Either way the sensor is dead.

The 2000 and up models don't have rear struts. Its a coil-over-shock design and those don't typically get bent in an accident. If it does get bent it's not likely to cause an alignment problem. There are three arms on the rear suspension that affect camber and toe angles and one of those is much more likely to get bent in an accident. The multi-link rear suspension should have an adjustment bolt for the camber on one of the lateral arms. If it's adjusted as far as it will go, one of the lateral arms is bent. Probably the upper since the camber is negative. (Top of the wheel is leaning inward)

Is your car FWD or AWD? 164 and 165 struts are for a Front wheel drive model.

Rear O2 sensor doesn't make any difference for fuel trim. It's just a check sensor for the catalyst. Can you watch the sensor data on your scanner?

4 wire sensor will have three wire colors. One color for signal, One color for signal ground One color for heater wires power and ground will be the same color. Upstream sensor on that car is a wideband A/F ratio sensor and works at around 3.3v.

The sensor may not be getting hot enough to function properly, or the sensor element inside could have been damaged when the heater element burned out. The heater element is essential on modern A/F ratio sensors because they have to operate at about 1200°F. The heater element remains on until the sensor reaches that temp, then it turns off. Most vehicles will monitor the heater resistance and turn the heater on and off as needed during normal driving so the sensor maintains the correct temp. If the heater stops working the sensor takes much much longer to get to operating temp and will keep the fuel system from going to closed loop due to the sensor not working correctly.

That sensor type should show around 3.3v pretty steady. Higher voltage, 3.5-4.0v, shows a lean reading. Lower voltage, 3.1-2.8v, shows a rich reading. Fuel trim isn't too far off, but the system is still in open loop in that shot. Was the engine up to operating temp? 1133 is the code for the heater circuit which could mean the connector has some dirt or corrosion in it, or the sensor could be damaged. Check in the connector first. Also check the wiring from the connector to the sensor. Not sure on the 2000 model but on the older cars the front sensor wiring runs right next to the axle and can rub on the axle if it gets loose.

If it had cruise you should still have a little stalk on the right side on the steering wheel with the cruise set/coast button. If it does not have that stalk it didn't have cruise. If it does have the stalk, its possible the servo malfunctioned and was removed at some point.

Vacuum leak. Check all of the large hoses that attach to the intake tube. Make sure the tube is clamped tight at both ends. If it has the big air box on the throttle body make sure that's clamped tight on the throttle body. Make sure the two halves are joined properly. Could also be the evap purge valve is stuck open. It's under the manifold on the passenger side. If vacuum is pulling through the solenoid all the time it will also pull fuel vapor from the tank and cause odd drivability problems.

95 doesn't care about the MAP sensor. Some 95s didn't even have it to begin with. Fuel problem gets my vote. Need to check pressure while it's being driven and having the problem.

Nothing goes on the throttle body there. Cruise control would have a cable coming from the servo connecting to one of the two levers on the throttle linkage.

Breather hose from the right side valve cover.

How do you know its getting fuel? Have you tried spraying starting fluid into the intake to see if it will start?

Does it idle that high all the time or only when the engine is cold immediately after starting? Normal idle speed should be about 750 rpm.

If it's the middle bolt just put a rubber grommet in the valve cover and you can use just the two outer bolts to hold it on. The rocker shaft assembly is easily removable and you can grab another end block from a junkyard car and get some spare cover bolts. If no junkyards nearby look in the parts classifieds here. Also pretty sure the timing covers use the same bolts as the valve cover.

I would try cleaning the IACV first. Automatic still uses the Park Nuetral switch on the side of the trans to tell the ECU what gear the transmission is in. When this code is set its because the ECU is trying to set idle speed at a certain RPM and it can't adjust the IAC far enough to do that. When the neutral switch on a manual trans car causes this code it's because the ECU thinks the trans is in Nuetral so it tires to set idle speed when you take your foot off the throttle, when it's really in gear and coasting with no throttle. The ECU can't bring the engine down to idle speed in a set amount of time, so it sets the code. I wouldn't rule out the p/n switch just because it's an automatic, because there is the possibility it could cause this code, but I would try some other simple things first, such as cleaning up ground connections on the battery, engine block, and body, and cleaning the IACV. Also check for any broken or split vacuum hoses, and make sure all of the breather hoses are properly attached to the intake tube.

Do you get the same vibration if you put the transmission in a different gear? Does it worsen with heavy acceleration? I've often wondered how people can ride around with loose lug nuts and not notice if. I've had lug nuts work loose before and even just a little loose will cause one heck of a shake, especially if you try to go around a curve. I put front brake pads on a car once years ago and it started raining so I put the wheels back on and put my tools away quickly and waited out the rain. Took it out for a spin afterward and made it about half a block from the house and knew something was just wrong because the front end of the car was wobbling and making an awful rattle sound. In my haste to clean up I forgot to torque the lug nuts on one wheel. One thing that will keep lug nuts from totally falling off is a bit of antiseize on the lug stud. It gets kinda gummy after a while and if a nut works loose it won't let it spin off. Don't put antiseize on the cone seat of the lug nut, or on the cone seat of the wheel though.

I've usually been able to get them from above with a 6" extension. If there is room a small breaker bar will usually crack it loose. Did have one that I had to go underneath with a 1/2" drive wobble impact adapter on and use a long 1/2" extension and breaker bar, but generally they're not that tight.

Assuming the AC still works, but just isn't blowing cold, usually adding one 12oz can of refrigerant will bring it up to proper pressure and have it working again as it should. IIRC the refrigerant capacity on that year should be only about 15-19oz. If there's any question of how much to add, you can generally start with a half can, then monitor the center vent air temperature with an AC thermometer. (Couple $ on amazon) when the air temp is around 45-50°f you're pretty close to optimal charge level. Be sure it is set to recirculate with the fan on full speed. If the AC has stopped working, generally adding one full 12oz can of refrigerant will get it to start working again, then you may need anywhere from 1/4-1/2 a can to get it to full charge level. Again, add refrigerant slowly and monitor the vent air temp and you'll get it pretty darn close.

Thought I posted a reply to this yesterday but I must have forgot to hit the post button. Yes, that strut to knuckle connection is what sets the wheel camber. When camber gets changed it also changes the Toe adjustment, which would explain things being so far off that last time around. As for the other alignment sheets, one thing that stands out is the SAI and included angle on the front left side are consistently less that those on the right side. I would hope for that to change once the new struts are installed and you get the alignment redone. If those are still significantly off after the new parts are on it may indicate that the strut tower (part of the body the strut top bolts to) on the left side may be bent, or that the engine subframe has been shifted towards the right side of the car. Its difficult to say exactly how far they're off since there is no specified measurement for those, but in general the SAI and included angle should almost match from left to right. Generally the SAI angle is not adjustable, which means that if its off something is bent. The included angle is a factor of the camber angle and the SAI,so changing camber will alter the included angle. These are not typically wear angles though. SAI may alter returnability of the steering wheel to center, but shouldn't cause the tires to wear any noticeable amount. Once the camber issue is fixed I think you should be in good shape. Considering that. The caster angle looks perfectly fine, which I would think should rule out a bent control arm. Caster, while not normally adjustable, will be affected by forward or rearward movement of the outer end of the control arm (where the ball joint attaches to the knuckle). Another thing to point out is that your rear camber is off by a little bit. It's nearly equal on both sides, so you won't likely notice a pull or any odd behavior from the rear, but it will eventually wear the rear tires more on the inside edges. A common cause for incorrect camber on that year range is worn springs allowing the back end of the car to sag a little. If you frequently carry heavy items or just have a bunch of stuff in the cargo area that could explain the camber issue as well, and in that case it probably isnt worth worrying about.

The MAF solder joint fix is only a sometimes cure. And actually it only really fixes the one set of symptoms that I've seen. Your's had a different issue, but still could certainly be caused by a failing MAF sensor. Hopefully you'll be back in a weeks or to saying she's fixed!