Fairtax4me

Good bet the spark plug is your problem. I would be inclined to pull that cylinder head off and just put a used head on it. Of course I would be doing the work myself, which makes it much more cost effective. To pay a shop to put a used head on may not be worth it to you depending on the labor rate. Nothing wrong with electric vehicles! If I could afford one I would probably buy a Tesla. EVs will get more popular in years to come as younger generations begin driving them. So will autonomous vehicles, because apparently people who drive these days want to pay even less attention to whats going on around them and more attention to their cell phones and computers/tablets. Wont climb on that soapbox right now though.

Was the front collision on the side? If so, which side?

Yup. When I bought my 96 Legacy my daily driver at the time was a 2002 Lincoln LS with only about 65k miles on it. The one in my avatar. I hated to take the Lincoln anywhere because it was flawless inside and out. I was always afraid someone would wreck it, or it would get dirty, or the doors would get dinged in a parking lot or something. I loved that car, but I was constantly worried about it. When I bought the Subaru, it was already kinda beat-up. Minor dents in the hood and fenders, faded paint on the bumper. I could drive it in the snow in the winter (which we got plenty of that year) and it got better fuel mileage than the lincoln, along with being able to use regular gas, which at the time was over $3 a gallon. Premium for the Lincoln was around $3.50. Between car payment and insurance I was spending about $300 a month for it to mostly just sit in my driveway. Not to mention the County taxes I paid on it every year as well. It took me two years to decide to sell the Lincoln. I had it appraised by Carmax, liked the offer, but still wasn't ready to let it go. I held onto it for another year, and only put maybe 1,000 miles on it. Took it to Carmax again and had it re-appraised, and they offered me MORE than they had the previous time, so I finally caved and sold it to them. No more lincoln, but no more car payment either, which was a bigger relief than I imagined! And the Subaru has done me just fine ever since. I bought my 95 not long after selling the lincoln so I would have a second car. (Kinda necessary for me) I'd like to have a newer car again, but right now to me its just not worth having the car payment.

If you have the printouts, scan them or post pics of them. Alignment angles can tell a huge story, especially if they show SAI and included angle. Sometimes those measurements aren't done or shown because they're not adjustable, but they can help determine if and which parts are bent.

I like fire. I just don't like it under the hood of the car I'm working on, unless the fire is on a torch that I'm controlling. I haven't yet caught a customers car on fire (don't ever plan to), but ive seen other mechanics catch cars on fire while doing compression tests. (By leaving injectors and the coil plugged in and plug wires dangling) If you don't pull the plugs, Unplugging the injectors prevents the exhaust pipe from getting pumped full of gasoline vapor that's just the right concentration to cause an explosive backfire when the engine does finally fire up. (Loud, could blow the muffler apart/fling exhaust pipe chunks out from under the car) If you do pull the plugs, unplugging injectors keeps the engine bay from getting shot fuel of fuel spray coming out of the plug holes. Unplugging the coil prevents the coil from arcing internally and shorting out.

Make sure none of the pins in the ECU are bent. Also make sure none of the pins have pushed out of the harness connector. Beyond that, you may want to check to make sure the ECU is getting power. You'll want a service manual for 95 for the pinout and wire diagram to check that.

All covered in my 101 thread.

Not out of your league if you have a basic tool set. Search here for my knock sensor 101 thread and it covers all the basics you need to know about finding and replacing it.

Did you disconnect the battery before unplugging the ECU? Is it plugged in all the way and the lock latch flipped to the lock position? Have you checked all of the fuses? Original stalling problem is probably the MAF sensor. Pretty common on the mid 90s years.

Only way to do it is to crank the engine. Like bushwick said, if you change the oil filter, fill the new one with oil before installing it. Pull the plugs out, unplug the fuel injectors and the it coil to disable fuel and spark (don't need a fire) and crank it until the oil pressure light goes out. With no plugs in it that should only take about 15-20 seconds.

Did you ever get a printout of the alignment specs before and after when they did the alignment?

If its part of the engine harness its the main ground for the ECU. Depending on which year it is, It probably bolts on top of the manifold near the coil pack.

Those transverse bushings have to be torqued with the suspension at rest position, wheels on the ground. There are only two ways to do that. One is on a drive-on lift. The other is with really tall ramps so you can actually get under the car with a huge wrench to torque them. Sockets don't fit into the space where the bushing sits, so a regular torque wrench cant be used.

Check the crank pulley for wobbling while the engine is running. A wobbling pulley can chuck the belt off and shred it.

What brand of clutch did you use? Did it come with a snout repair sleeve for the transmission? Subaru's are especially prone to clutch chatter partly because the release bearing wears the snout of the transmission, and eventually it causes uneven engagement of the release bearing to the pressure plate, which then causes uneven engagement of the pressure plate to the clutch disc.

Stored codes only go away after 80 drive cycles without the code resetting. Make sure you have clean grounds on the engine, battery, and chassis. Check the grounds up on top of the strut towers. After checking those I would pull the instrument cluster out and check the board on the back of the speedometer.

Have you cleaned inside the three large connectors on the bell-housing? There should be a ground point on top of the number 3 intake manifold runner. That's the main grounds for the ECU. Make sure those are clean and the bolt is tight. Only other guess I would have is to check the connector at the ECU. Maybe the ECU is the problem? I hate to blame that, but its possible.

That's a part of the unibody structure of the car and isn't really a "removable" part, so you wont typically see it with a conventional name. The best way might be to go to a body shop and ask what they call it. Body shops often use different names than mechanical shops for certain parts. They also tend to have standardized names that are used for insurance companies to identify which part is being replaced, especially in the case of frame and structure work where damaged parts need to be cut out and used parts welded back in place.

What year is your car? Fans not running would certainly cause your issue. There are larger slow blow fuses in the underhood fuse panel. Are any of those blown?

Was it a spare connector or another connector in the car?

Gonna have to replace the green tab. The tab holds a grounding bar away from the wire terminals. Unless the tab is pressed in, the wires are connected by the bar. This the light turns on because that circuit is grounded. The airbag system will be disabled whenever the light is on. So the airbags will not deploy. You may be able to get that green tab to pop out of another connector, but worst case you will have to replace the connector. Can you solder? Does it have the 2 wires in the connector or 3 wires?

The pumps on these are "self bleeding". You fill em up, start the engine and turn the wheels back and forth a couple times. The air pushes out into the reservoir on its own. If that O-ring wasn't replaced, that will allow air into the system and will create a constant whine no matter what you do. There are also other sources for accessory whining, and timing components can also cause a whining noise when they start to get old. What engine do you have?

Anywhere near Portland? You could take it to Rick (Generaldisorder) and have a true subaru master tell you what's actually wrong with it.

Like wtdash said, check the drive blade for the speed sensor on the trans. The blades can break and cause this. Usually it's because the sensor is old and the rotating core inside it is getting sticky. If the blade is broken replace the blade and the sensor. Rpm and speedo get signals from two very different places. Not connected at all. Cruise gets its speed signal from the same speed sensor on the trans that the speedo uses.

Did water get in the floor? Computer is on the floor on the passenger side.