Fairtax4me

You scared the crap out of me!! I'm not sure what I would do without opposedforces... Still works on my end, but I have been a little worried for a long time that it may go away because there seems to be a lack of updates.

How old are the old plug wires? Moisture settling under the hood will cause old plug wires to arc.

Just the pins in that first pic where they come in from the connector. Only time I've actually seen cracks was when I wiggled the pins in the connector and saw one open up. Even then you can always see it.

Probably the MAF sensor going bad. Pretty common issue on the mid 90's cars. The common problem with those is a the solder joints will crack where the pins from the connector meet the pins that come from the PCB inside the housing. If you cut the silicone out from around the square on top, you can pry the top off and you'll see where the pins join. Hit those with a soldering iron and re-solder them. Stick the top back on and run a bead of silicone around it to re-seal it. Most of the time that seems to fix it. Just watched the video, symptoms aren't exactly like what I'm used to seeing from a failing MAF, but possible yours is failing. They can cause all sorts of odd symptoms. Have you watched the MAF data while its acting up to see if the MAF flow rate is dropping too low? Also have you tried to check fuel pressure while its doing this? Could be an intermittent issue with the fuel pump.

Those Cd changers go bad all the time and will likely cause a problem again even though you have no CDs in it. Best to put in an aftermarket head unit before it kills your new battery.

Just outside of the federal emissions warranty by time, but you're still under the 80k mileage limit. Get it back to the dealer inside that and they're should be more likely to cover the repairs. P0420 codes are common and they're generally due to something simple. Cats rarely go bad, but O2 sensors fail often and they're still pretty pricey. Vacuum leak, old spark plugs, dirty air filter, old gas, any number of causes for that code. Best to start with a tune-up and go from there.

That first picture sold it for me. Keep far away from that one unless you're looking for a project car to rebuild. Its a beater, as in, he's beat it like a redheaded step-child.

Number 4 is drivers side rear. It's all the way at the base of the runner on the back side. 4 brown wires going to two eyelets, single bolt into the manifold. Look where the line from the fuel rail bends around and goes behind the manifold. It's under that. Hard to see, hard to get to, and probably covered in dirt and grime. I can try to get a pic tomorrow if that'll help. Also, check the 16 pin connector on the passenger side on the bellhousing. The bottom 4 pins are the same ground wires. Make sure they're clean and the connector is clicked together all the way.

You need the engine and transmission crossmember blocks, the bolts for the engine and transmission crossmembers, and the front control arm rear bushing housings from an outback. You'll also need the longer steering shaft u-joint. The driveshaft carrier bearing on the outback sits lower. You can either swap the driveshaft, or just get longer bolts and stack some washers together to lower it about 3/4". For the rear suspension You will also need the rear crossmember blocks. Differential outrigger blocks, and the rear trailing arm brackets.

You can't spin it with the rear wheels on the ground. Need to have at least one rear wheel off the ground and parking brake off. Chock the front wheels and put it in park to keep it from rolling.

Newer cars have timers on the interior lamps to prevent them from killing the battery of you leave a door open. Didn't harm it a bit.

Assorted what?! I guess we'll never know!

I don't remember if the headlamp switch can be separated or not. Been a while since I've had one apart. The clock spring is separate. That has to be removed before the switch assembly can be removed. When you remove the clockspring, use a peice of tape to hold the middle spinny part in place so it doesn't turn around and get out of center. If the clockspring is installed out of center it will rip the ribbon cable inside when you turn the steering wheel.

How many miles are on the car? Is it a fast vibration, or slower, shaking feeling? Does the vibration become more prominent with higher speed? Does it only happen at certain speeds, or do you notice it more at certain speeds?

Does it only have that play on one side or are both sides like that? Have you tried new shims to see if they make the fit any tighter? That could be a replacement caliper and bracket (common for both to be replaced with rebuilt calipers) and the bracket was sand blasted and ground down too far in order to remove rust from the surface. Couple things you can try if you haven't yet. New anti-rattle shims. Wipe antiseize on both sides of the anti-rattle shims. Apply some disc brake quiet spray to the back of the pad to help it stick to the caliper and reduce the chance that it rattles around. Replace the caliper bracket with a used one.

IAC is moving all the time when the engine is running so it spends all of its time with current running through it. It's designed to do that on top of a hot engine, so doing its thing on a cold engine that isn't running is like a cake walk. The ECU powers the IAC IIRC, so if the ECU isn't turning off, the IAC will still be getting power even if the engine isn't running. Try plugging a code reader into the DLC and see if it connects to the ECU with the key off. It should power up, but not be able to connect. If it does connect the ECU is staying live all the time, and that could be due to a couple reasons. If it's not staying live, a bad ground for the ECU could cause current to backfeed through other circuits in the ECU and cause those other circuits to remain On, even if the ECU is Off.

Too lean would explain your stumble problem. With all you've done so far, it would be good to check fuel pressure while its under load to see if pressure is dropping off.

X2 on broken front axle. Park only locks the front axles, if one is broken the front diff will still let it roll. Check the axles for a split boot.

Has the AT temp light or Power light ever come on?

Have you checked the fluid in the rear diff? Could also be a rear axle. Are any of the rear axle boots ripped? Have you checked the rear u-joint on the driveshaft for play?

Somebody really buggered that up. Looks like the block is cracked in that last pic? If it continues to give you trouble, might try ditching the crush washer and using some gasoila pipe thread sealant on the adapter. Let the thread sealant set-up for about 24 hours before starting the engine.

Trans uses Dex3, but fluid probably not the problem. There was an issue with the early models that have an inline filter between the trans and the cooler (in radiator) and the filter gets plugged and causes problems. Check if it has the inline filter. Should be somewhere along the frame rail on the drivers side if it has it. If it doesn't have the filter you could try bypassing the cooler temporarily to rule out an obstruction there. Otherwise, probably gonna be looking for a new trans.

Sounds more like the center diff in the trans. Rear diffs on these rarely go bad, and when the limited slip fails it tends to fail open so it just acts like a regular diff. A ring gear problem is possible, and that should cause a bunch of metal in the fluid. Center diff failure is more common and the center diff often fails to a locked position. Again, no clutches, just a slightly different design than the limited slip unit in the rear diff. Mismatched tire sizes, or greatly worn tires on one axle or one side vs new tires on the other side will cause damage to the center diff. Do all 4 tires match in brand, model, size, and tread depth?

Fluid level OK? How old is the fluid? Trans fluid dipstick is on the drivers side near the starter.

Subaru uses a fluid type LSD. No clutches. Friction modifiers do no good. What symptoms are you having? Is it jerking and lurching in turns after it warms up? How many miles on the car?