Fairtax4me

Should be seeing more like 180-200 psi compression. I'm inclined to think that's due to a cam timing problem. Can you remove the timing covers and take pictures of all the timing marks lined up? There should be 6 notches on the back edge of the crankshaft timing sprocket. Did any of those notches get broken off? If its missing one the engine will not start, or may start but will run very rough.

Brus that's a good point. Totally forgot about that! Emissions warranty should be 8 years/80k miles. And that's a federal mandated warranty, so they pretty much have to honor it.

One of the mods will have to move this to the Old gen section and you'll get better help there. If the timing was off, more than likely that's the problem. Double check your timing marks. I'll also suggest replacing the timing tensioner or tensioners to prevent a repeat.

Yeah probably a sticky clutch disc. Was the flywheel machined when the clutch was installed the first time or the second time?

The catalyst monitor is running at the same time as the others. Basically as the monitor runs it ticks off a checklist of criteria that have to happen to ensure the cat system is operating properly. If any of those checks fails, it will set a code. It cannot set the monitor to Ready if there is a code present. I think the cars that new have a 100k mile spark plug change interval, but it never hurts to change them early. Spark plugs can make the difference between a 420 code and no code. Other things include a clogged air filter. Dirty MAF sensor (if equipped) A vacuum leak. Or split or loose hoses for the breather/PCV system.

The evap line should be right near the other two fuel lines. The evap line will not have liquid fuel in it (it shouldn't at least), so if the line is wet its probably the return.

Kinda sounds like rod knock to me. Mismatched tires, probably has torque bind. Guy's playing dumb.

It'll run too rich without a return. Don't block it off. If it's too rusty just cut it off and run injection hose from the top of the tank over to there. The two larger lines are supply and return. They run along side each other the whole way from the tank to the engine. A smaller hose next to those is the evap system vapor line.

Biggest problem is its just too new. There isn't much in the way of aftermarket sources for those. CAIs don't do any good. No chips. Though you could check with Cobb and see if they support that ECU for accessport reflash. Exhaust can be custom made at any exhaust shop. Header pipe and cats might be available somewhere but I'm not sure. You'll get about 10-15 extra hp for $2000. Buy an older Impreza WRX or Legacy GT or Forester XT and you'll have more options for upgrades.

No, none of the 2.0 engines have ever had chronic head gasket problems. As far as other issues are concerned, that depends on what series engine you're asking about, as Matt said. The FB/FA series engines in the 2012-up cars. Or the Ej20 in the 2011 and older.

Probably one of the inner axle joints getting ready to break. The one on the passenger side tends to fail more often since it sits above the catalytic converter and gets exposed to more heat. The boot splits and flings all the grease out then the inner parts get run dry and eventually wear out. Should be able to see it from above by looking down behind the air intake tube.

Is the battery fully charged?

Rough idle and stalling issues are due to vacuum leaks and/or sensor issues or something that's relatively simple to fix. Turbo engines are going to consume oil, that's just the nature of their design, but an old PCV valve will increase consumption. How about a tune-up? 160k is decently high mileage for a turbo engine, but it's no death sentence. Most people here are gonna tell you to fix what ya got. Or you could be honest and just say you want MOAR POWAAAHHH!!! In which case, you can get a JDM drop-in 2.0 for about a grand. You could probably make the NA motor work, but the hassle isn't worth it. Takes like 2 days for a machine shop to machine and valve job a set of heads. You're gonna spend probably $300-500 per head to have that done. Plus gaskets, you're close to $3000 already. Throw in a $500 tune, bigger turbo $300-600, up/down pipes... Gonna spend 5 grand before you know it. Low mileage JDM 2.0 you can up the boost as is and get plenty more power and still have a reliable engine.

Good deal! Glad you found it! Happy Beetling!

Plug the EGR hole with a bolt. Or just leave all the EGR stuff there for decoration. Block off the vacuum hoses because it won't work anyway.

You really need to be under the car to do it. Use a large pry-bar between the transmission and the axle cup and pry it out. It helps to apply pressure to the cup then pop the prybar near the cup with a hammer.

I have a set of grey mouse-fur seats out of a first gen legacy sedan in my 96 right now. They fold down. Maybe yours didn't, but they were available.

There are latches at the top of each fold down section that should have a small metal tab with a peice of cloth attached. Often the cloth is gone or the tabs are folded back where you can't see them. They fold toward the drivers side. Use a flat head screwdriver to reach into the crease and find the latch and pull the tabs out.

I took a look at the diagrams I have for 2002 model year (should be similar enough) and the only thing that stands out in the diagrams is a communication line between the ATCU and the ECU. I suspect there should be an identifier pin on the ECU that needs to be grounded, similar to the older model years, but the diagrams just aren't showing it. There are similar instances of unlabeled pins being used among other projects people have done, such as the Sport mode pin on the TCU in 95-98 model years. I think the thing you'll have to do is get a wire harness from a manual transmission car. There may also be the option to have the ECU flashed in order to disable those codes. This is something the performance crowd does fairly often when removing certain components from the turbo engines and/or when doing turbo swaps into non-turbo cars. I'm not sure of specifics as to what you need in order to do this. I imagine having it flashed by a performance shop would cost a few hundred $$.

If its fresh oil, that much oil runnin down from the timing cover area is going to be from a cam seal or the oil pump or front crank seal. Like LM said, need to get it cleaned up and watch where the oil is coming from. Pull the timing covers off so you can see the front seals.

The gaskets only fit one way. Do not put any kind of sealer on a head gasket for these engines. They should be installed totally dry.

Im not entirely familiar with the evoscan software, but there should be an option to select O2 sensor voltage. Don't know what O2 Average is supposed to be, but those numbers don't mean anything.

Germans like to run high pressures. "More than enough" might mean "too much" in this case. I would put a gauge on it and make sure its sitting around 30-35 psi at idle. Should be around 40-45 with the regulator vacuum hose removed. If the fuel pressure is too high its going to spray in more fuel than is needed. If the pressure doesn't change with the vacuum hose removed, use some pliers to pinch the return hose and see if the pressure changes.

Yeah I would say its running a bit rich. See the black buildup around the outside? Look into getting free-SSM hooked up so you can do some data logging. Did the MAF come from the same car you got the engine from? Injectors original to the engine? Fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator original?

They're like m6 size bolts. 8 ft lbs More than that and you'll either strip the threads out of the head or snap the bolts.