Fairtax4me

Merry Christmas to all! And to all a good Subaru!

Your best bet is to have the dealer order a new key from your VIN. Only other option would be to have a mobile locksmith come make a key, or remove the entire lock assembly from the column and take it to a locksmith for them to make a new key for it. I don't remember if 06 needs a chipped key, but if needed that would also require reprogramming before it would actually start the car. Whatever way you decide go, be sure to get more than one key. Amazes me how many people don't have a spare key of any kind for their vehicles. Of course I manage a fleet of 19 at work, so it's something I have to think about on a regular basis. Having multiple different drivers for each vehicle necessitates keeping spares on hand and some within easy access on the vehicle in case keys are lost in a remote location or when a group is hours away on a trip.

Most shift kits are just a set of accumulator springs and make the shifts firmer. It won't have much effect on the actual shift point because that's controlled by the TCU. The TCU mostly looks at throttle position and wheel speed to determine shift points. You might be able to do the "Sport Mode" mod that was common on the older SSM1 cars. People used to do it on 95s pretty often, but im not sure if it can be done on a 97.

They do. When they're asleep it's not enough that I would consider them to be parasitic. A battery left on its own in storage will have enough internal resistance to drain itself below its ability to start an engine in about a year. One left in a vehicle parked outside, even disconnected, about 6-8 months. A ~15mA draw from computers will typically take about 5 months to drain a battery below starting ability.

bad connection or the meter fuse blew. The computers in the car will pull a few amps turning on after a battery disconnect. Two quick tips: 1 you should be working with the Negative terminal, not the positive. Disconnecting the positive you're leaving a closed ground and possibility for a voltage short to ground through your meter if you drop a meter lead which will either blow out your meter or at the very least blow the fuse in the meter. Two, when connecting the meter leads between the battery and cable you're running all current for any electronics/computers in the car through your meter. This initial connection can be too much current for most meters to handle which can either blow the meter or fuse(s) in the meter. To safely work around this take a 14-16awg wire about 18" long and strip back about 4-5" of insulation on one end. Disconnect the battery Negative cable, wrap the long wire end around the negative post and twist it on itself to keep it tight around the base of the post. Clip the black meter lead to the other end of the wire. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Then clip your red meter lead to the negative cable. Turn the ignition On, then back off and be sure to remove the key. Now remove the negative cable from the battery and set it aside taking care not to dislodge the red lead from the cable, or the black lead/wire from the battery post. Initial readings may be 200mA or more depending on how much current the various computers draw during their idle/awake stages. After a few minutes you should see that drop as they fall into sleep modes and draw less current. Eventually they will all be in sleep modes and current draw should be less than about 30mA. Typically this takes 10-15 minutes (but some vehicles such as GM can take several hours). Once you're sure all computers are in sleep mode and current is still high start pulling fuses in the underhood fuse box to narrow down which circuits may be drawing too much current. If your meter still reads 0.00 the current draw may be too high for the meter to read properly. In that case, try the 10 A current setting on the meter (be sure to properly reposition the leads on the meter if necessary). If it still reads 0 after that then you either have a major draw, which will pretty much only come from one place, or the meter/ internal fuse is blown.

edited: was thinking of wrong block Not the one with flat top pistons

The solenoid on top is not meant to be removed, adjusted, or tampered with in any way, or you will have idle problems. The position of the solenoid is set at the factory in a way specific to the valve its on. There's no way to get it back to the factory setting if it's removed, and there's no way to match up a different solenoid to valve combo to the correct setting. If you have a spare, you can swap the entire assembly, but do not try to swap just the solenoid on top. As it is now, the one that you removed the solenoid from is basically junk, you might get lucky and get it back to "close enough", but it will never be right. You're better off to oss it and get a new/used valve.

Really only two things that will throw the LT off that far, MAF or O2 sensor. MAF failures seem to be common on the "newer" models. It's also the easiest part to replace. I would start there. New Denso MAF for that car is about $90 from rockauto.

Far as I know the EJ20 was only available in the US in the Impreza WRX (turbo), and most of them get flogged pretty hard.

This is not entirely correct, and will only make the problem worse. Sway bars control body roll by lifting the inside wheel. The stiffer the sway bar is, the more it lifts the inside wheel. A stiffer front bar promotes under-steer, which is the desired handling effect for factory vehicles because It's easier for the general public to maintain control of the vehicle in an under-steer situation. To get away from under-steer you upgrade the rear sway bar. You need to start by upgrading the rear suspension. Especially on a wagon, and especially if you carry a lot of cargo/gear/tools in the back. Stiffer rear springs and new shocks to help control the compression of the rear suspension. And a stiffer rear sway bar to keep the heavier wagon rear end from rolling. I have between 100-150lbs of tools, fluids, spare parts, and other car related items in the trunk of my car at all times. Add any other gear I use on a regular basis, (such as 40lb worth of tackle box, cooler, wading boots, other fishing gear) and every car I've owned for the last 10 years gets new stiffer rear springs (if available), and a stiffer rear sway bar. A suspension lift will not help. Raised height springs will decrease the amount of droop that each wheel has before it comes off of the ground. Shocks/struts are the limiting factor in suspension travel, so unless you're cnsidering long travel/rally shocks (big $$$$) taller springs will exacerbate the problem even more. An ALK can help control turn-in and wheel lift to some degree, but it's not worth considering until you've already upgraded the rest of the suspension.

Why are you assuming which wire is which? KNOW what each wire does... Get a multimeter and check for voltage. You know what they say about assuming... Haynes manual wire diagrams are junk. Get a factory service manual for it and use the wire diagram in that. They're available for free in Google-land if you look in the right place.

Subaru isn't the only brand with head gasket problems. But if you ask me they are the easiest to fix when they do go bad. The 2.5s are perfectly fine engines, the major problems that many people associate with the 2.5 usually come from neglect and/or abuse. Neglecting to change fluids/ check levels will kill any engine no matter who made it. For your price range you're probably looking for something between 2010-2014ish depending on mileage and options. A forester with the FB engine (timing chains instead of a belt) would fall right into that price range. Same with an early 4th gen Outback.

Can you get a video of the sound? Idle speed is not adjustable with the TPS. The ECU sets idle speed and it will correct itself to 750rpm regardless of TPS position, but adjusting the TPS will throw off the ECM load calculation and will throw off transmission shift points. Will cause more problems than that, but either way the TPS needs to be set back to its original position. What are the codes?

They ditched the roll pin axles in 05ish. If you pulled the stub out of the trans did it still have the circlip on the end? Sometimes they pop off and the stub won't stay in the trans.

It could be going in and out of torque converter lockup. How many miles are on it? Have you changed the fluid?

I don't follow you. The wires are disconnected? But you're testing for voltage on them? Why? I remember now there are two wires because they go to two different terminals under the box. Im not sure why because I'm pretty sure they both connect back to the battery supply post inside the box. They might say which size they are on the insulation somewhere. Probably 10 or 12. Try cutting that back about 6" from the burned end and see if the strands in there are discolored or corroded. If the copper is clean you can solder new ends on and solder them to a new eye terminal to go on the alternator. Be sure to heat shrink over the connections.

Pull the door panel and just hook power straight to the wires on the window motor.

Just a poor connection there. If it burned once and the end of the wire was just cut and a new eye terminal installed that's not good enough. Heat damage to the wire lowers its current capacity, which in turn increases the heat buildup in the wire. The game is current vs resistance vs contact area at the crimp. Small contact + more current = more resistance, more heat. That wire runs to the bottom of the fuse/relay box and connects underneath it. I don't remember if there should be two wires or not. At this point it's best to replace the entire wire from the alternator to the fuse panel. As mentioned before, any aftermarket accessories, big sub and speaker amps, etc., will increase current draw through that wire, and the size of the wire needs to be increased to allow for the higher current load. Lastly, make sure your battery connections are clean and tight, and the power wire from the battery to the fuse panel is in good shape at both ends. And make sure the battery is holding a proper full charge. A battery that cant hold full charge is dying and will cause the alternator to have to produce more current trying to recharge the battery. A good battery will show at least 12.4 volts after sitting for 12 hours. Ideally you want 12.6, but anything below 12.4 indicates either the battery is not getting a full charge, or that it is discharging itself and is not holding its full capacity.

Get under the car with a prybar and try to lift them.Mounts won't cause that noise even if they are bad. Possibly a bad CV joint. Kinda sounds like a bad bearing in the trans, or the release bearing for the clutch bouncing around. What happens if you just put slight pressure on the clutch pedal? Just enough that you feel the resistance of the clutch but not enough to disengage it.

Rod knock. That engine is toast.

You'll have to describe that with a lot more detail. The radio makes noise, door locks make noise, the engine makes noise when you start it, lots of things make noise. We're not able to listen to it unless you can upload a video or sound clip.

Radiator capacity for a phase 1 EJ is around 3 quarts. They vary slightly depending on model and engine size.

Amsoil has several different grades of synthetic. I've run all of them at some point or another. I run signature series 0-20 in my sisters 2012 Hyundai at a one year interval. She tends to run 15-20k miles in a year. Even with shipping it works out to around $65 or so vs $30 per change every 5k with cheapo synthetic or conventional. Best price I can get on Mobil 1 is around $50 with filter. I've run Mobil in enough other vehicles to know it shouldn't be run more than about 10k. In many other vehicles I run their XL and OE series oils, generally with a Wix filter. The OE series is great for a 3-5k mile change interval and if you get a preferred customer account it's only about $65 a case (12qts). With a wix filter its around $35 per oil change for the average Subaru. I generally run these in newer engines (50k or less) that demand clean oil to keep variable valve train parts clean and functioning properly.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7103992&cc=1357310&jsn=9 The caliper bracket bolts to the backing plate, so ripping it off isn't a viable option.

Yeah swapping the backing plate is a wheel bearing job. The bearing will not survive if the hub is pulled out. Junkyard a whole knuckle. Get the axle too in case his wont come out of the hub.