Fairtax4me

I looked into something similar to this a few years ago and kinda gave up after reading about all the differences in master Cyls, brake calipers, proportion valves, hill holders, and how many different combinations of them there are. Change any one peice and you change pedal feel, stopping power, and possibly the F/R balance of the brake system. Larger bore in the master cylinder = more fluid moves when you push the pedal. Moving more fluid causes you to lose some of the mechanical advantage of the hydraulic system, which equals more foot effort to get the same pressure. You basically have to push harder to get the same stopping power, and the pedal will not move as far. Smaller MC bore moves less fluid, but it increases your mechanical advantage, so less foot effort creates the same pressure. Pedal will move farther, and you will not push as hard to move it. Where that makes the next difference is at the caliper end. A dual piston caliper generally requires more fluid, but less pressure to get the same stopping power. The fluid pressure is spread over a wider surface area on the back of the pistons, which means the pistons push a bit harder. If this were paired with a small MC bore, the brakes would probably feel a little soft, because you have to push the pedal farther. Or if paired with a much smaller MC bore, the pedal travel may be too long, meaning the pedal could hit the floor before you get full braking power. But I think you would have to switch from a 1-1/16 to probably a 7/8" or smaller MC to get that much effect. I would think you can safely switch from a 1-1/16" to a 1" bore without too much issue. You'll feel the pedal is a bit easier to push, but the travel range should still be within an acceptable limit. Search around on rockauto for master cylinders for various years and models. You'll see there are different bore sizes and port layouts depending on model, ABS, or non-ABS, and hill holder vs non-hill holder. Generally with the 95-99 legacy a non-ABS MC would only be used with rear drum brakes. There may be a 90-94 legacy with disc brakes and non-ABS, but I'm not sure.

Usually if you get a code for the MAF that indicates an electrical problem with the MAF or the wiring. The MAFs on the 95-96 years are known to fail. They can sometimes be fixed, but I think yours my have totally bit the dust. Make sure the wire connector is clean inside and plugged in all the way first, and make sure there clamps on the air tube are tight, and all of the 3/4" PCV and breather hoses are properly attached at both ends. The P0106 code suggests a vacuum leak, usually the smaller 5/16" hoses that run from the #3 intake runner to the MAP sensor and switching solenoid on the right strut tower. Misfiring is usually due to old/work spark plugs and old plug wires, but I would try to fix the MAF code first. A used MAF is usually pretty inexpensive.

I seem to remember the older Pirelli P6s being pretty good. They seemed to wear quicker than other brands, but were pretty quiet and had good rain traction. Never drove a set in the snow but I would think them to be about average for an all-season tire. Run-flats do ride noticeably rougher, so if a smooth ride is important you should avoid them.

Usually 204F is the turn on temp, 194F is the turn off temp. Thermostat begins to open at 174, but won't be full open til about 192 IIRC. Normal running temp should be around 190-195.

Felpro makes the Subaru OE gasket for the mid 90's 2.2. They've updated their 2.5 gasket design to match OE specs, but I'm not sure if they manufacture the 2.5 gaskets for Subaru. The Felpro gasket should be fine. The bigger question is, how well were the heads and block prepped. Doesn't matter what gasket you use if the surfaces were poorly cleaned or if the head is warped, it gonna fail.

Gotta take it apart to actually see it, but you can easily tell once the strut is removed from the car. The upper mount should spin freely. If it doesn't spin, it's because something is binding with the mount, and that's usually the cone washer.

A little more detail on the problem would be helpful. The 4EAT transmission is known to have harsh shifting when cold, especially the 1-2, and 2-3 shifts. They often stay in first gear for a prolonged time (engine may rev to 3,500-4,000 rpm before shifting), then shift roughly on the first two or three shifts. A fluid and filter change won't hurt.

Sounds like the Cone washers were installed upside down. There's a cone shaped washer at sits on top of the upper spring plate, the small end of the cone points up toward the bearing in the strut mount. If the cone is installed upside down, it hits outer race of the bearing and causes the strut to bind.

You'll need to find FSM for those years and compare TCU I/O pinout diagrams for both of them. You may be able to make something work, but first you need to know what will need to be changed in order to even plug them in. You may fry the new TCU as soon as it gets plugged in if you don't make sure it has the same pinout as the old one.

I'm in the same boat, looking for tires for both my cars. My 95 still has plenty of tread left on 3 year old BFG Advantage T/As, but they hydroplane horribly, and they've started to wear oddly which has created a pull to the right, and some road noise. I've seen good reviews about the General Altimax RT43, and the tread design looks good enough for snow, and looks good for rain. (Good for an all season design) The only downside I can see with those is I think they will probably tend to feel a little squirmy when new that should go away as they age, but will start to make some road noise as the tread wears, but they should retain good wet grip characteristics. Others that I've looked at, Michelin Defender, Yokohama Avid, and the Kumho Solus, all look to be very quiet designs, should be ok in the rain, at least until you get about 30-40k miles on them, and they'll have good directional stability. (Won't wander or feel squirmy) You'll lose some grip in the snow because of the tight spacing of the tread blocks. From past experience with Kumhos, I would expect those to wear oddly, and need frequent re-balancing. Dunlop actually has a good lineup of tires under their "SP/Sport" name. I had a set of those on my old 95 wagon and they were very good in rain, decent in snow, and very quiet. I didn't keep that car long enough to need a new set of tires, but I put around 20k on those tires and they still had plenty of good tread left.

Impreza doesnt need a bleeder screw because it uses a vertical core (end tanks are on the top and bottom) and the fill cap is on the right side just a few inches from the upper radiator hose. Legacy filler cap is on the left, opposite of the upper hose, and the coolant you pour in has to go through the small tubes in the core before it can drain into the block. In order for it to get into the block it has to push the air out, and when the end tank on the filler side gets full of coolant it causes an air lock. No air out, no more coolant in. Eventually the coolant will get into the block through the jiggle dohickie on the thermostat (assuming the car has a stock thermostat) but that takes several hours because only a small trickle can get through there. The bleed screw allows that air to push out which allows coolant to flow into the block through the upper hose. That still takes a bit of time, which is why I prefer to fill the block through the upper hose first.

Most new cars seem to go through bulbs in a heartbeat. My sisters 2012 Hyundai has had nearly every external bulb replaced in the three years she's owned it. I see new vehicles (less than 5 years old) almost every day with some type of bulb not working. Buy quality replacements and after you've replaced them all you won't have any more problems!

Look for a wire diagram for your year. Injectors are labeled 1-4 on the diagram and the ground wire will be a different color for each injector.

Thermostat is my first thought. That has to be a high quality or OE Subaru thermostat. The cheapos cause problems just like this.

It is a wide range. If it were a standard O2 sensor the voltage range would be 0 -1.0 volts. No, wide band sensors don't vary quickly like narrow band sensors do. The catalysts used on the cars with wide band sensors work differently, and don't need the rich-lean swing that is necessary for a typical 48 state cat to work.

Don't have to take the carpet out. After lifting the console out cut the carpet back about an inch and you have enough room to pop the clamp loose, then you just pull the cables from underneath and they pop the grommets out of the floor.

Top of the end tank on the right side. Just looks like a plastic casting on top of the radiator but it has a + in it for a philips head screwdriver.

No air/vacuum leaks, no exhaust leaks, I think I would change the front sensor. Especially if its original. Front sensor is reading lean and the rear sensor is reading slightly rich. Kinda looks like the ECU is trying to compensate for the lean reading by adding a bit more fuel, but not enough to throw the fuel trims way off.

I usually fill the block through the upper radiator hose, then fill the radiator with the bleeder screw open.

Only If you get both heads. They will bolt on fine. 97 is a single exhaust port head. 93 is a dual port, so you'll also need the exhaust y-pipe to match the head. Also the cam profiles are different between those. 93 used a tappet style cam and rocker arms with hydraulic lash adjusters. 97 used roller rockers with solid manual adjusters.

Cold engine cold air, needs more fuel in order to run. Gasoline needs to vaporize in order to burn. When its cold its harder for the droplets to vaporize, so a high amount of the gasoline that gets sprayed into the engine doesn't actually burn. It just gets chucked out the tail pipe. O2 sensors don't work until they're about 600°F. During the warmup period the ECU doesn't even look at O2 sensor voltages because they aren't working. It's called open-loop operation. It bases the starting fuel mixure solely on coolant temperature until the O2 sensors get hot enough to start making a signal.

Yes, these engines do take some time to get all of the coolant warmed up when it's very cold out. It has been in the mid 20s in the mornings here lately. My 95 gets to operating temp in about a mile and a half, I get some amount of heat before I get to the end of my street (1/4 mile) but it takes another 10 miles to get the heat up to full blast hot. The heater cores on these can sap quite a bit of heat from the engine when it's trying to warm up. Gurgling/trickling in the heater core is always a sure sign of a low coolant level. When you refilled the system after installing the new thermostat, how much coolant did it take to fill? Should be able to pour in about a gallon and a half. If it was less than a gallon there is still air in the system.

Make sure your negative battery cable is tight where it attaches to the engine block. Also make sure its clean and tight at the battery post.

Front O2 sensor maybe. Are there 6 wires going in the plug?

IIRC the 98 ECU has different pinout that 97-96, so an ECU swap with an earlier model year isn't likely. 95 and 96 reset the evap, catalyst and EGR monitors every time the key is cycled, and the EPA actually issued an exemption on those model years because of that. But 98 should be keeping those monitors in a ready state after turning the key off and back on. If it's not maintaining the ready status, there could be a power issue to the ECU, such that it isn't keeping its memory powered in certain areas. Or there could be an internal problem in the ECU. Have you been following the Subaru TSB to set the monitors? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134825-subaru-tsb-how-to-set-your-im-monitors-for-emissions-testing/