Fairtax4me

3.7 is kinda lean. 4.4 is VERY lean. Was it hitting 4.4 only when you were decelerating? If it has a MAF sensor, check your MAF flow rate at warm idle, and at 2500 rpm in park. If it has a MAP sensor, I've heard of those going bad and causing problems. You could have an exhaust leak at the head flange causing that. Those are hard to hear and impossible to reach around and feel for. I like to use a long section of 3/8" ID fuel hose. Stick one end to your ear and fish the other end all around the exhaust flanges. If there's a leak you'll hear it.

Lots of things it could have done. Might not have hurt the cam but it could have crushed the thrust bearing journal or scored the other three bearing journals in the head. Only way to find out is pull the cam out. Takes maybe 15 minutes to get it apart and check.

Yes.

Always tighten right away with RTV or any other silicone type sealer.

I don't remember there being a relay. Power window circuit breaker is stuck to back of the knee panel under the steering wheel. Take the two screws out and pull it down. Has only two wires and they're pretty large. That can click off-/on repeatedly if the wiring is shorted.

Ultra Grey is usually my weapon of choice for that. Mega Black works pretty well too though.

Don't need it welded, just line it up exactly the way it is there. People run them all the time like that. Make sure the crank pulley isn't chewed up, and make sure the face of the sprocket is flat. I had one that the edge of the timing sprocket was rounded over and the pulley wouldn't sit flat against it. When the crank pulley gets loose it only eats away in one direction. The other edge of the key slot is still fine. Use some blue lock-tite in the key slot to hold it in place while you torque the bolt. Torque the crank bolt to 140 ft lbs.

You can run either phase 2 head. Phase 2 head gasket coolant ports will match any phase 2 head. Need the phase 2 2.2 head gasket to match the bore size of the block.

Need to match bore size, and cooling ports. Phase 2 2.5 heads onto a 2.2 block, you need to use phase 2 2.2 head gaskets. Phase 2 heads all have the same cooling ports. Need to match the 2.2 bore size which is the same for either phase 1 or phase 2 2.2. Phase 2 2.2 head gaskets get you the ports and bore size you need.

There are no wire or any other parts for the window controls under the seats in 95-99 models. Its all in the dash and in the doors.

Is it a squeal like a belt slipping, or a whine like a cat growling?

Trans pump is shot. New converter won't do you a bit of good at this point. You need a transmission. Converter always stays in the trans whenever you separate engine/trans on an automatic car.

Broken wires in the flex boot where the harness runs from the body into the door, or corrosion inside the connector for the door harness. The connector is just inside the body behind the kick panel.

On the rubber housing seals I lubricate both sides because it helps the seal slip into the bore easier.

Those type of connectors are horrible. They cut strands of the wire when they're crimped down. More than once I've seen those melted because the wire cant handle the current through the circuit after those are crimped on. Possible that connector is causing your problem. Check voltage at that wire on both sides of the crimp connector and see if there is a drop across the connector.

Yes. As long as everything else checks out fine, (cables, connections, good battery) the starter should be replaced. A rebuild may be an option if you can find a local starter/alternator rebuild shop.

Then a bad brake light switch it is! Poke your head under the dash, look near the top of the brake pedal. There wil be a big switch with probably 4 wires. Generally removal is pretty simple, though I've not done one on that year Subaru so I can't give specifics.

Its a flare fitting so if the flare on the pipe didn't seat all the way against the cone in the head it could have deformed the flare when you tightened the nut. You may need to remove it entirely and make sure the ends are OK.

Kinda looks like its crooked like someone replaced it before. That's pretty much the only reason those leak. Get one from Subaru. Get one of these seal pullers if you don't have one. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K Pull the old seal out. Thoroughly clean the bore the seal sits in and the journal on the crankshaft. Lubricate the new seal wih fresh engine oil and push it into place as far as you can. Then tap around it with a dull punch to seat the seal. You can see there is a chamfer around the outer edge of the seal bore. Make sure the seal is pushed in so the face of the seal is even with the bottom of that edge.

I've always been able to put them on with the intake bolted down, but those pipes are easy to bend if you're pulling up on the manifold with it still attached.

The rear cam plugs you just pop out with a screwdriver. Right where it humps upon the edge of the cap, hammer a small flathead screwdriver in and use it to pry the plug out. Hammer it in pretty much in the same direction your arrow is pointing. Get the new plug from the dealer. O-ring is on the front side of the head behind the cam carrier extension. Worry about that one when you do the timing belt. The passenger side head has the O-ring on the back under the round plate with the two bolts. Remove the two bolts. Twist the plate a bit as you pull outward. The o-ring will probably be hard as plastic and stuck to the plate.

I haven't done one in a while but I seem to remember the nut threading up almost to the head. If its leaking there you may be able to feel the exhaust pushing out with your hand. You certainly want to check that with the engine cold. Maybe have someone else plug up the tail pipe while you feel/listen around the EGR pipe.

The problem with rust on the wheel wells is it comes from the INSIDE. Paint the outside all you want, it'll still rust. Have to cut out ALL of the rusty material and rebuild the panel out of metal or fiberglass and body filler. Part of the problem with the second gen legacy wheel well rot comes from the black body trim they put along the seam in the wheel arch. The trim traps water and dirt/salt in the seam, eventually the sealer applied to the seam degrades and the water is wicked in between the two panels that join there. Then the rust starts to work its devious magic inside where you can't see it until its too late.

The grinding sound is the sound of the starter pinion gear grinding against the teeth on the flywheel ring gear. (or torque converter ring gear if automatic) Eventually this will cause sever wear to both the starter pinion gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear and will require replacement of both. Start is easy to replace and costs you maybe $200 now. If the flywheel or torque converter need to be replaced its going to cost several thousand $$$$. If you hear the grinding noise now, replace the starter NOW and save your flywheel. A couple other things to make sure of. Make sure your battery is in very good health. An old/ failing battery may not deliver enough amps to allow the starter to engage properly. (Especially in cold weather!) Make sure your battery cable connections are very clean and tight. Even if corrosion is not visible on top of the terminal, there may be corrosion in between the terminal and the post causing a poor connection and preventing full current flow from the battery when the starter needs it. Make sure the starter power and ground connections are clean and tight. Make sure the main ground cable connection on the engine block is clean and tight. For the starter to work properly you have to be able to get full current through both the power AND ground cables. A poor ground connection is just as bad as a poor power connection at the battery. Pictures of a worn flywheel caused by a worn starter gear: http://www.aftermarketonline.net/Technical/2013/28443-/A-tale-of-diminishing-returns That large gap where the teeth are totally worn away will cause the engine to not start at all.

Yeah I would suggest doing that one again. Apply the head then take your finger the whole way around and smear it out flat all the way across the raised perimeter of the plate. Before you remove it, use brake cleaner to thoroughly clean all around the area of the plate. There is still some oil residue above the plate and that can run down and cause your sealer to not adhere as well along the top.