Fairtax4me

Only time I've seen air vents flap themselves shut is on a few older cars that the vent mechanism was broken and there was no resistance to hold the vents properly in place. It's possible both of yours are damaged or worn for some reason. Or it could be that there's an obstruction of some sort (paper towel/ dead mouse) in the air tube which is causing increased air velocity through the center vents.

Switch is built into the HVAC control panel. Switch works if The relay clicks on/off as it's supposed to when the switch is pressed. The switch on this model doesn't directly control the relay, it signals the ECU to ground the relay coil.

Black meter lead connected to battery ground? Checking voltage at the pins on top of the fuse? How about at the terminals with the fuse removed?

Just dug a spare out of a parts box and tested it and these are actually NOT resistive switches. I'm thinking maybe it was Nissan that uses those, can't remember off hand. They should read close to 0 ohm when you push the plunger. Poor connection maybe or for some reason your meter just isn't reading properly.

Relay control side operation is independent of the grid. The light in the button works when the relay is commanded on, regardless of the grid gets power or not. The relay is in the fuse panel under the dash. Power for the grid comes from the fuse in the main panel (underhood) through the relay, then through a few connectors as the harness runs through the car. Check for power getting through the relay if you can. try a different relay in its place if there are any similar relays. There are three connectors in the right rear corner behind the trim where the body rear harness joins to the gate harness as it runs up the D pillar. The wire color for the grid power wire is the same the whole way from the relay to the grid so you should be able to find the right one to check for power there. The other connector is behind the lower kick panel under the the right corner of the dash.

What setting did you use on the meter? IIRC those switches are resistive and using the continuity setting may not show continuity due to the resistance of the switch.

Tap extensions http://www.waltontools.com/products/stylea.htm Can also often use 3/8 or 1/4 socket extensions and if the end is too wide just narrow it down with the bench grinder.

You used a gasket and sealant on the trans pan? The gasket is pointless. These pans have flat sealing flanges and are sealed from the factory with just RTV sealant. I've started using Permatex Transmission pan sealant on every trans pan I do. I fill the trans immediately after installing the pan and none have ever leaked. Also for what it's worth, there's no reason to ever use a gasket AND sealant at the same time except for a drop in some corners/seams where two parts meet. Gaskets are made to seal without the use of any other sealant. If a gasket doesn't seal by itself either the surfaces are not clean or the gasket just sucks (often the case with parts store gaskets). Sealant OR a gasket, never both.

Glad it's back together and running. Those timing idlers won't last very long. Good find from a junkyard for $20 or whatever, but keep a spare set of idlers around or keep an eye out at the junkyard for an NSK tensioner and Koyo or NTN idlers.

99s have problems with the speedometer. Broken solder joint on the PCB behind the speedo head. Google search for Subaru speedometer fix and there's tons of threads on how to repair that. Pretty sure the shift problem is because the trans is in limp mode (stays in 3rd gear) due to no speedometer input to the TCU. Fixing the speedometer issue should take care of that. One thing to check just in case is the main wire harness plugs that go to the transmission. There's one plug up above the bellhousing, and one on the side where the harness goes into the trans. Corrosion or poor connection in either of those plugs can cause the trans to go in limp mode.

Did you put a jack under the transmission? Lifting the trans too high can pinch the wire harness on top of the trans. Or if a jack was put directly on the pan wiring inside the pan can be damaged.

Go Lucky I admire your enthusiasm to post all of that but that's way complicated for tracking down the problem. First we just need to narrow down where to look. We know the headlamp switch works, and that the hi/lo dimmer switch works. The BIU only takes input from these and uses that to control the headlamp relays. The high beam indicator works, which tells us the BIU is commanding the high beams on, and therefore that the hi/lo switch works. And we know that the headlamp switch works since we have at least one working low beam lamp. From there it's just a matter of power getting to the bulbs. Check at the bulbs, power and ground. No voltage? Check fuses for power on both sides in both low and high beam positions. The little tabs on top make perfect spots to probe with a multimeter or a test light. We should have power at at least one fuse since the one low beam lamp works. This also tells us the low beam relay is being commanded On and is working. So if both low beam fuses have power, the problem is between the fuse and the lamp. Do the high beam fuses get power with the high beams selected? If no, Can you hear the high beam relay clicking on and off as the high beam switch is moved? If the high beam fuses have power, then we're looking for a common connector or section of wiring between the fuse block and the headlights where there may be corrosion and now possibly burned wires. It may even be the one on the bottom of the fuse block.

The way that end of the cam was stuck out, that first journal is totally wrecked. Good used heads are not that hard to come by.

Unless you know that sensor is new/recently replaced, just unplug it and toss it. Put a new O2 sensor on with the new cats. Is the side of the transmission covered in grease? If there's anything that could catch on fire because of hot exhaust blowing on it then you really shouldn't drive it.

Anything is possible, but normally a locked up idler will just shred the belt. The cam might have been previously damaged and just decided it was time to go. Have seen a couple of pulleys overheat when the engine is running and weld themselves stuck after the engine is off. Id pull the rest of the cam out and see if there's any scoring of the other 2 cam journals in the head. Look for any signs that the cam seized due to lack of oil. If it all looks ok then put a used head on and it should be fine. If the other journals are damaged it would indicate that the cam seized due to lack of oil and there could be other serious damage elsewhere in the engine.

That's pretty much it. A lot of yards will sell airbags, but the ones that don't get sold have to be deployed before they can be recycled.

Might consider a new insurance company as well. Ive had many rocks hit the windshields of my vehicles. Very rarely do I see them coming. Probably the only one I remember actually seeing was a chunk of gravel about the size of a baseball and it hit the hood first then rolled up the windshield and left three marks on the glass as it went up.

There's a reason you have insurance.

Camshaft seized or pulley broke. Reach in there and try to spin the cam with a 17mm wrench on the pulley bolt.

Illegal in most states. Fog/driving lamps can not be lit without headlights on as well.

Is it 100°F every day? If not, stick with 5w30.

The pistons in the block in the pic are not 25D pistons. Might have low compression pistons installed and just doesn't know? Not enough detail for me to tell if that's a 25D or 251 block, so can't say for sure what setup he actually has. "Sluggish off the line" is a relative term. Anyone who can read a dyno chart can see that the 25D doesn't make peak power until the 5k rpm range. Torque is also a slow rise until higher RPMs, and that's all due to the cam setup. Twin cam engines are tuned to make better power at higher RPMs, the trade-off of that is less power available at low rpm.

Most exploded views will only help if you already have some idea of what you're looking at. Most Subaru parts will say Subaru on the part somewhere so if there are random parts in the back look for part number or some other identifier/name on the part. You could also upload a pic of any parts you're not sure of and a lot of us here can help identify them. Google search for Subaru FSM will turn up service manual downloads but they're usually not well laid out. Can also check opposedforces.com, and try looking through parts diagrams there. 93 Impreza what size motor?

I must have misread somewhere, I thought you replaced plugs already? Intermittent misfire, step one: replace spark plugs! NGK copper are best in the old 2.2. No need to waste money on more expensive plugs.

Good to hear it was a simple fix.