Fairtax4me

Did you replace the batteries in the remote?

Might want to just check and make sure its getting 5v. Also check the opposite pin (one end is 5v, the other is ground but I can never remember which) for voltage on the ground side. Should show less than about 0.2v on the ground pin.

Did you happen to check to see if the TPS was getting the correct 5v supply? And you made sure you had a clean ground or grounded the meter to the negative battery post? When you install the new TPS you have to adjust it so you get 0.5v on the center pin at closed throttle, Otherwise the ECU doesn't know how to set idle speed. You will also want to probably disconnect the battery negative for 5 minutes or so to reset the ECU.

Not tryin to prove anyone wrong. When you think about it, it doesn't make sense that the engine could redline with the throttle closed, and I would tend to agree with you if I hadn't dealt ah this type of problem before. I've actually had that happen twice on older GM v6 cars. One that I owned and the engine revved on its own to redline while I was driving it... In 5 o'clock traffic. Luckily I knew enough to put the car in Nuetral and turn the key off. Same thing happened to a neighbors car several years later. But anyway, /threadjack]

Did you try Car-part.com?

Engine really doesn't need much air to support 6000 rpm with no load on it. If the ECU thinks the throttle is open it'll give enough fuel and timing advance to run right up to redline on its own, and it will get enough air between the gaps around the throttle plate and the IAC, which is gonna be open pretty far for a cold start anyway, to do it. Especially on a 4cyl engine like these. Before I said Wide open throttle, but that really isn't right since generally if you open throttle 100% the ECU will cut fuel entirely to clear a Flood condition. But if a TPS fails so the ECU thinks throttle is 50% open that's just as good as wide open for an engine with no load on it. If you've ever reved the engine to 3,000 rpm or so and held it there it only takes about 8-10% throttle to get it there. Big enough Vacuum leak, it'll run right up as high as it can. Cold start, the ECU is running the injectors wide open trying to get idle mixture rich. Plenty of fuel there to run away. If you were to allow the engine to warm up like that, it would eventually slow down because the fuel mixture would lean out more as coolant temp rises. Funny thing about cold idle fuel mixture, it's actually burning lean because cold fuel/cold air doesn't allow the fuel to vaporize completely. The fuel condenses into droplets too large to burn completely during the combustion process. So that cold high idle when you think its running rich, you've actually got a lean burn, yet lots of excess unburned fuel out the tailpipe because it just can't burn those giant fuel drops.

Check voltage on the TPS center pin. Should only be 0.5v with throttle closed. 4.0-4.5v with throttle wide open. Brake booster hose would be the only obvious one large enough to cause that. I've seen it caused by bad intake manifold gaskets/loose manifold bolts. Heartless' case was caused by missing fuel injector o-ring on the base of the fuel rail.

I wouldn't mess with it. Just take it back.

I've had bad TPS report WOT even with the throttle plate closed and redline the engine immediately. Heartless had a major vacuum leak a few years ago that ran the engine into redline immediately upon starting. Fried computer can cause any number of problems. Just depends on the failure mode. Could be one transistor that burns out and causes it to think throttle is wide open. Throttle plate stuck open is possible as well. Should be pretty obvious by looking at the throttle cable and lever.

Nobody accidentally hooked the battery up backwards did they? Does it do this repeatedly? Or just the one time after you replaced the battery? Couple things that would cause that. Major vacuum leak. Dead TPS. Dead computer.

Should be 1.25.

Compression test? If compression is good, pull the injector and swap it with number 2. Injectors get cruddy if they sit too long. Have seen quite a few that click open but don't spray.

I get crank/cam sensors from the junkyard. They hardly ever go bad.

Possibly one of these? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_4/body_equipment_exterior/protector/illustration_1/ Gonna be dealer only. If it's not on that site you'll probably have to go to the dealer and show them what's missing, and hope their parts people are smart enough to find it.

Head bolts should be M11. Use a regular tap with an extension. http://www.airgas.com/product/Tools-%26-Hardware/Cutting-Tools/Taps,-Dies,-Chasers-%26-Threading-Tools/p/VIS21212?utm_campaign=airgaspl&utm_medium=product_listing&utm_source=google&gclid=CLDQ8Kf_tskCFRAWHwodcjcEXw#fo_c=306&fo_k=1e9841671e670d0cc10b1fde16826ed0&fo_s=gplaus

Factory part is Unisia JECS. Rockauto sells Airtex Wells brand for $35 which I've read is just a reboxed JECS part. I've used the made in China EBay knock sensors on quite a few cars and have had no problems from them. Last I bought them I got 4 of them for $8 each.

If you've never done a head gasket before, this is probably not the engine you want to start with. The 2.5s are VERY PICKY about gasket surface cleanliness. Unless you can see seepage from the head gaskets, I wouldn't bother. Replace the valve cover gaskets, cam seals, and put a timing kit on it. I like Aisin water pumps because they come with the factory style rubber coated metal water pump gasket. Dunno what style gasket the Gates kit comes with, most come with paper gaskets that tend to fail and cause a leak.

Are you sure the leak is from the pan? If someone has ever had the tail housing off to repair the C duty solenoid the tailhousing could be leaking. If it is the pan, make sure the pan bolts are snug. Sometimes with a gasket the pan bolts can loosen and it starts leaking. Hard part about RTV is keeping trans fluid from running down and getting on the sealing flange of the trans while you're trying to get the pan positioned. I generally pull the pan and wait overnight for the trans to drain as much as it can to minimize fluid running out and getting in the way of the RTV. Cork gaskets are useless. I avoid those like the plague. There are rubber material gaskets that work fairly well as long as you don't overtorque them, and they're fairly forgiving of small drips/runs of fluid running down onto the gasket surface from inside the trans. Would be nice if someone made a re-usable rubber/silicone coated metal gasket for these, but I haven't found one yet.

If I wasn't designed to be used, it wouldn't be there. Use it all you want! The computer won't let it shift if you up/down shift too soon. Just remember to do regular maintenance on the car and it should give you quite a few years of good use.

Yep, just a circlip. And yeah they're tough to pop out because you're not supposed to remove the stub to remove the axle. On manual trans there's actually a C-clip/snap ring on the inside so the stubs can't be pulled out.

No "chips" on these. Gotta flash the ECU. There are some things that can be done to get some extra oomph out of it. Torque grind cams from Delta Cam. Headers/exhaust stuff can give it a bump.

Was the circlip still on the end of the stub when it popped out? If the circlip is gone you need to get a new circlip. Larger axle is probably aftermarket. They always have larger joints. Not always a good thing either. It'll fit and work, but may cause a vibration, may also start clicking soon. Front diff uses 80w-90 gear oil. Dipstick is on the passenger side of the trans.

Are you looking for performance? Or just a decent set of replacement pads?

Check the coolant level. Get a rebuilt alternator from the dealer. There was a recall on those years ago and they are available rebuilt for about $70 from the dealer.

Its the radio. Should have yanked it out when you had the problem before. They're almost 100% guaranteed to fail and cause a battery draw. The radio and HVAC are separate, just attached to the same panel. Crutchfield sells a kit that replaces that trim panel around the radio. You simply unscrew the heat/vent unit and attach it to the new trim plate, then install a single or double din aftermarket radio. Draw fixed, and better sound quality.