Fairtax4me

Traction control and cruise are disabled when the CEL comes on, so those lights turn on as well. Sounds like you just need a newer code reader. Look into the Torque app if you have a non-iPhone.

^ That

Unplugging the main harness for the trans puts it in limp mode. Actually thinking about that, unplugging the inhibitor switch doesn't really change much other than you can't start the engine, but IIRC there is a signal from the inhibitor switch to that tells the cluster which gear light to turn on when the selector is moved to each position. (p,r,n,d etc.) Do you have those lights in your current instrument cluster? I don't remember off hand, but that may also signal the TCU to change down or up based on selector position. If you don't have those lights, the circuit for them has to be wired in some manner, it's possible that circuit has a poor connection or is not getting correct voltage from its supply.

I can't tell if the clicking is from the lifters or the fuel injectors. If it's from the lifters you need to pull the valve covers and pull the rocker shaft assemblies off and clean out the oil feed holes and possibly bleed out the lifters with kerosene and replace the o-rings on them. I hear the puffing sound and its either a broken PCV or brather hose, or it's a pulse of air going back into the intake from a stuck open intake valve (Which could be caused by a stuck lifter). It seems too irregular to be timing related.

Is the misfire constant? Does it set a misfire code? Usually a constant misfire will generate a blinking CEL.

If it has the 97 air box make sure the bottom part of the box is together properly and the seal that goes between the halves is in place. Misfiring is usually spark related. Could have knocked a plug wire loose.

I would guess a valve body issue. Putting the selector in 1 should hold the trans to first gear only. IIRC It's based on the position of the manual spool valve. Do you know any history of the trans? Where did it come from? Has it ever been worked on?

Won't get a catalyst code right away. It's a two trip code, and takes a very certain set of criteria just to run the test cycle for the catalyst monitor. It has to run and fail on consecutive drives before the code will set. Generally the car has to be driven 15-20 minutes at a constant speed before the test will run, then the test takes several minutes to complete and any major change in throttle angle or vehicle speed will reset the test.

Assuming it's a factory alarm system that should have worked. Sounds like the security module has taken the dirt nap and will probably just have to be unplugged and the starter interrupt relay bypassed.

Low idle could be due to a vacuum leak or split or broken hoses connecting to the intake tubing. The IAC does have primary control of idle speed. It is common for those to get gummed up and cause some issues usually with idle surging up and down. It can be cleaned on the intake by spraying it with throttle body cleaner or seafoam spray cleaner. You can also remove it to clean but that also requires a new gasket.

Yes the alarm system will disable the starter. Not sure exactly why it would go off randomly (there's a lot of reasons it could) but to disable it disconnect the battery then reconnect it with the key in the On position.

My windshield guy does them in about 30 minutes usually under $200. It's not worth my time to even think about doing it myself.

Yeah sometimes they get so stuck you just can't do anything with them. I've had luck in the past heating the hub to cherry red in the middle around the axle and hammering the axle out with a 5lb sledge. Have to thread the nut back on the end backwards to kinda prevent damage to the end of the axle so you can get it out of the hub. Two rear bearing jobs I had to do that since the bearings were press-in type. I replaced the hubs on those as well. Replaced them on my 96 a while back and they popped out with almost no trouble.

Depends on what's on the windshield. Acid rain marks or any deposits from sediment or something such as overspray will come off with a polish kit or sometimes can be removed just by cleaning with a clay bar just like the paint. http://www.eastwood.com/pro-glass-polishing-kit.html?mrkgcl=764&mrkgadid=%7B_mrkgadid%7D&rkg_id=h-9701dd57587cecce2e58e9f429fa5026_t-1511150581&product_id=%7Bproduct_id%7D&adpos=%7Badposition%7D&creative=%7Bcreative%7D&device=%7Bdevice%7D&matchtype=%7Bmatchtype%7D&network=%7Bnetwork%7D&SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6PXbyaLM1wIVhbbACh0Fog2zEAQYAiABEgLgOvD_BwE Little dings and chips from the sandblasting of debris against the windshield for the last 20 years won't come out no matter how hard you try.

What caused the fuse to burn? Fuses don't typically burn out on their own.

No. The only reason they ever need to be replaced is of they get flooded with liquid fuel from overfilling the tank. Typically a flooded canister will weight 4.5lbs or more.

Technically no, but aftermarket parts listings usually list the same axle for left and right. Pretty sure the only difference is the direction of the helical cut of the oil groove.

Depends on the size of the canister. 3lbs sounds fine to me. Typically a flooded canister will weigh 4.5lbs or more.

Won't make a difference. The OBD1 ECUs don't have way to determine an open circuit fault. A dead CTS is quite often an open circuit. The sensor element is electrically open and will read infinite resistance if measured with an ohmmeter. It's a common failure and a new CTS is about $20. O2 sensors fail in two ways, either high voltage, or no voltage. If the sensor sends you voltage the ECU assumes the fuel mixture is rich and will lean out the mixture if it can, but older systems can only alter the AF ratio by about 15% based on O2 sensor signal. In the right conditions the lean AF ratio can cause some stumbling or hesitation but I've never had one make an engine stall. The O2 sensor sending no voltage the ECU will assume the sensor hasn't reached operating temp and will continue to run on base AF ratio which will make the engine run like nothing's wrong, just won't be as fuel efficient as it can be. I'm not sure what the algorithm is for setting codes on the OBD1 ECUs, but usually just unplugging something doesn't do it.

Depends on how much you weigh and how much you can press. I find that a longer breaker bar makes things easier. And a 5 foot pipe. I wouldn't replace the springs if they're not sagging or excessively rusty. Original Subaru springs will last longer than Cheapo replacements even if they are 18 years old.

Does the rattle go away if you press the brake pedal? Check brake pads, could have lost an anti-rattle clip. Tire is probably rubbing against the wheel well liner making the grinding sound. Tires move quite a bit when the car is rolling. Theyre rubber, they flex, and the car puts a lot of lateral force on the tires when you turn. Turn the wheel all the way to the direction that normally makes the noise, then Look and feel in front, behind, and inside both tires and find where the tire is closest to the fender, liner, etc.

Coolant temp sensor is bad. Flooding the engine when it's warm.

No. Plastic fuel pumps just suck. They crack all the time. Refueling doesn't create any real pressurization inside the tank. Less than 1psi is normal. Fuel pumps generally make around 45 psi. Even if the vent valve is stuck closed vapor will just push out through the filler hole. (Usually this will also result in the auto-shut off nozzles kicking off after pumping ~1 gallon of fuel. A clogged canister or drain tube/filter can result in the same problem.) The combination of the vent valve and the drain valve at the canister are what allow fuel vapor out of the tank during fueling and allow it to pass through the canister. The fuel is absorbed and "clean" air passes out through the drain filter. Later When the engine is running the vent valve is closed, the drain valve and the purge valve open the fuel vapor that is absorbed in the canister is pulled out via engine vacuum and some fresh air is allowed in through the drain filter. The pressure control valve is only used when the engine is running so the ECU can check for leaks in the evap system. I would disconnect the line at the purge solenoid (block off to prevent a vacuum leak) and make sure you don't still have the same problem after refueling.

Would have been an obnoxiously loud leak if there was a hole before the cat. Maybe he burned a hole in the pipe and had to fill it in. Need a crows foot O2 sensor wrench for these. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tekton-3-8-in-drive-x-7-8-in-22mm-offset-oxygen-sensor-socket-1138355?cm_mmc=feed-_-GoogleShopping-_-Product-_-1138355&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4IGZ25PJ1wIVCavsCh1z2wqxEAQYCSABEgI_HvD_BwE

Yeah could be a melted catalyst. Unbolt the cat from the y-pipe and pull it down and see if it's melted inside. Do the same for the second cat. These normally shift a little rough on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts when cold.