Fairtax4me

Try car-part.com and search near your zip code. Also try posting in the parts wanted section here. What problem are you having that you need anew transfer section? We can give more suggestions for the least expensive option to fix it if we know what's broken.

From a 98 outback should work fine. There are dozens of model numbers that are interchangable. US model numbers differ from the JDM model numbers even though the transmissions are the same. The biggest thing to watch out for is that the transmission comes from an Outback so the final drive ratio of the front differential is correct. Limit your search to 96-98 model years and the replacement will hook up just fine.

I'm not familiar enough with the setup on that model to say exactly how difficult it is to replace. If it's like the 95-2000 models the blower box has to be removed, which requires removal of thee entire dash. The first thing to do is try to confirm that the core is freezing, which you may be able to do by looking in through the opening for the blower motor. You would have to run the AC until the problem starts, then quickly remove the blower motor and probably use a small mirror to see inside.

Probably the lines above the fuel tank/crossmember in the back. They rust out and spit fluid on top of the tank and you don't see it right away.

Speed ratings really don't matter on a snow tire. Even if the tire is rated to go 149 mph, are you really going to drive that fast on snow tires? (Or drive that fast at all?) Pick one. Order them. Take them to the tire shop and have them installed.

There's really no replacement for the quality of a OE antenna on newer vehicles. There's quite a bit more engineering going on than what may appear as just a stick of metal covered in black plastic.

You'll always hear a hum from the fuel pump as it primes the fuel system when you turn the key on. Should last about 2-3 seconds and then stop. If it starts with the pedal on the floor that indicates the engine is flooded with too much fuel. This is commonly due to a bad coolant temp sensor. Usualy less than $20 for a replacement, and fairly easy to change on your own. Can also cause driveability problems such as stumbling and hesitation. Also be sure to check the vacuum hoses and the hoses that attach to the intake tube. I know it may look like there's a maze of hoses on the engine, but these really aren't that complicated if you take a little time to follow where each one goes and what it attaches to. Check all of the small vacuum hoses for any breaks or split ends. If you find any that are loose or broken, they need to be replaced and properly connected.

Check for a poor connection somewhere. Make sure the cable terminals are shiny clean inside where they touch the battery posts. Check the main ground cable where it attaches to the block, and check the positive where it bolts to the starter. Also check the small wire on the starter. Make sure there is no corrosion in the connector.

If its dripping from the hose, there could be a blockage in the hose, or it may just need a small clamp or zip-tie around it to tighten it up against the nipple. Make sure the water isn't running down from another seam or a crack on the box. Yes, if the core ices, the ice will block airflow. If the core is icing, either the evaporator thermal sensor isn't working correctly, or it has fallen out of the core and can't accurately read the core temperature.

95 bearings are press in. No way around that. If there's no play and you can stand the noise, keep on driving. These can go for years on noisy bearings and not get any worse, or only slowly get worse. On the other hand, I've had one go from practically no noise to total failure in 5 miles, so it's always a gamble. That was an aftermarket bearing though, which had already been replaced, and the installer didn't put the outer bearing seal back in.

What year is the car? Bearings on these can be tricky to diagnose. They usually don't show any play until they're totally worn out, but check them for play, and if you find one that's loose, that one is definitely in need of replacement. The best way to check them is to disassemble everything and pull the axle out of the hub so that it can easily be spun by hand. If the bearing is bad, it will be obvious.

Yeahp, rust grows in the knuckle and crushes the sensor housing. Have seen it quite a few times on these. Scrape all the rust and scale out and load up inside the hole with anti-seize.

Should work if its just three wires. The two same color wires are just for the heater element, polarity shouldn't matter for that.

Your hill holder isn't adjusted right or it's sticking. Adjust clutch first, then adjust the hill holder. Loosen the hill holder all the way. Adjust the clutch cable so you have about 1/4" of free travel at the release lever. Now adjust the hill holder cable so it just starts to pull the lever on the holder mechanism. The spring on the holder should pull the release arm forward just enough to prevent the release bearing from riding against the pressure plate when the clutch is not being used. It's better to adjust the holder on the loose side, and make small increments tighter if you find that it isn't holding well enough or not holding at all. The holder should only keep the car from rolling back, it should not hold the car from rolling forward. If it holds while rolling forward, the cable is adjusted too tight, the holder lever could be jammed, or there may be debris or rust inside the holder preventing proper operation.

Yes the resistor gets hot. There is usually a sticker of some kind on it that says "Caution Hot", or something to that effect. The 2-3 shift is often rough with this trans. Try changing the fluid and see if that helps to smooth it out a bit.

Looks pretty darn good for a Connecticut car! Hard to say from the pics but the rust on the frame and crossmembers may be light enough that it can simply be wire brushed and then treated with a rust defensive primer. Then have the whole thing undercoated to curb further rust.

Means the sensor is bad or there is a problem with the circuit for the sensor. Either damaged wire or the surface the sensor sits on is corroded and not grounding the sensor. Lots of reasons for a P0420 code. Usually not because of the cats, but the engine will burn antifreeze when the head gaskets go bad, and that can damage the cats. Read up on the P0420 first. Make sure spark plugs and wires are new. New fuel and air filter. New Subaru PCV valve, and make sure no vacuum hoses or any of the hoses that connect to the intake tube are split or broken. The knock sensor may even trigger that code if driven around for long enough with a bad sensor.

Do you want to open the windows without starting the engine? Press the ignition/start button two times withOUT applying the brake. Or do you want to open the windows with the key fob? Most of the time if the car is able to open the windows with the fob, it is done by pressing and holding the unlock button.

Oil starvation is a... Pull the backing plate off the oil pump and make sure the rotor isn't scored, and make sure no bits of metal made it into the passages in the pump.

Well, it kind of is a one horse race. There are other rebuilders out there, but they're harder to find, and certainly don't have the reputation that CCR has. I wouldn't really call CCR a rebuilder. More of a Remanufacturer. (There's a difference in those processes) Their engines are built as close to factory specification as possible. CCR won't use a block that's been re-bored. If they need to do anything more than clean it and de-glaze the cylinders, the block gets scrapped.

If there is wetness below the hose the end tank could be cracked along one of the ribs that run around the tank.

Struts don't typically knock when transitioning from accel to decel or vice versa, unless you're hopping the back end of the car. If the mounts are making noise you'll be able to see the upper cushion move when you bounce the car around. Pull the trim out of the back that covers the strut towers and remove the three nuts that hold the cover plate. Remove the cover plate, Put the nuts back then bounce the car around and watch the large nut in the center for movement. If it moves, stock your finger on top of it and see if you can feel it knock when it moves. Trailing arm bushings will make clunking/knocking when transitioning. Worn axles can as well.

Spark plugs and Wires? How old are they? Two O2 sensor codes could mean its going lean when it gets into closed loop, which could be within about 60 seconds depending on outside temp.

Did you spin the bearing by hand? Is it rough/sandy sounding? Is the rubber cushion torn? Did you see the carrier move and make the noise when putting the car in gear? Some movement in the rubber cushion is normal and is not indicative of a problem. The carrier can be replaced but it has to be pressed on. Free-wheeling freaks the ABS out because it sees drastically different readings from the wheel speed sensors. With all 4 wheels off the ground the ABS will pulse when you hit the brake because one wheel will always stop sooner than the others. Despite being AWD, the wheels will never free-wheel at the same speed due to differences in wear and drag from the brakes, axle, bearings associated with that wheel. Pulling hard at a stop, sounds like it may be idling too high. Idle speed should be around 750 rpm. Any higher and it will try to pull itself away like an old Buick.

Part of the problem with aluminum is that it's very brittle. Its easy to crack, especially when its thin, like in that area of a drain or fill plug. People who are use to working on older American vehicles tend to either forget or don't pay attention when tightening bolts in aluminum because they're used to working with cast Iron. At some point every mechanic will crack an aluminum part, because it is so easy to do. Unfortunately in your case, the part that cracked isn't easily replaceable (such as a water pump or mounting bracket for the alternator/steering pump). Because of the expense, you'll probably have to take legal action to get it replaced. Ill second Dans idea, have a welding shop look at the area around the plug and see if they can weld it back or weld a new bung into place. Part of the problem with aluminum is once a crack starts, it doesn't stop. Just like in glass, It will continue to expand all the way through a part until it gets to an edge. How fast it travels across that part depends on a lot of factors, such as heat cycling, vibration, etc., so there's a chance that welding may not work. It is possible to prevent the spread of a crack by drilling through it, but its important to have someone with experience in aluminum repair perform this type of repair to give it the best chance to work.