Fairtax4me

Let's throw filter media area into the mix here along with the other sects of oil filter religion. A larger filter is not always better. As a filter is used its filtering efficiency increases due to the capture of particles. A new filter is designed to collect particles down to X size (10 micron, for example), for Y amount of time before it reaches its optimal filtering capacity. As it collecs those particles that are 10 micron and larger, the open passages in the filter become smaller, thus allowing it to capture smaller particles. This is when a filter reaches its optimum filtering efficiency, capturing as many small particles as possible. Using a larger filter increases the time it takes for a new filter to reach optimum filtering efficiency, thus allowing larger particles to continue circulating in the oil for a longer time period. The simple truth is, changing the oil frequently, and using a quality filter will do more for engine longevity than using a larger filter. Use the filter that is specified, and you'll have no issues.

I used 1 qt of diesel and 4 qts of non-detergent 30 straight motor oil the flush the 305 in my Caprice years ago. Worked great! Even washed all carbon out of the pistons and that's how I found out one piston had a hole in it! Diesel and kerosene are old timer tricks to get sludge and tarnish out of the crankcase, but they knew better than to mix the thin stuff in with the detergent multi-viscosity oil. Mix it with a heavy weight oil and drive it easy for about 100 miles.

Did you remove the oil pump and reseal that? If you did, the oil pump is dry and needs to be primed before you start the engine. Pull out all 4 spark plugs, unplug the fuel injectors and unplug the igniter module or ignition coil. Crank the engine for about 15 seconds until the oil pressure light turns off. Re-install the plugs, re-connect the injectors and the coil pack or igniter, then you can start the engine. Bare minimum, the whole intake system needs to be installed and connected. All the breather hoses and the large hose for the IAC valve. If those are not connected properly the engine will start and immediately shut off. It probably won't run long enough to know if its going to run totally smooth. With no coolant you'll only be able to run it for about 10 seconds, but that should be just long enough to know its going to start and run OK, so that's up to you if you want to put on the radiator hoses and fill it with coolant before starting.

They've damaged the lock cylinder, probably by trying to hammer a screwdriver or pick into it to break the tumblers. Quickest way is probably to finish what they started, but there's risk of breaking other parts if you go hammering on it more. I'm not sure you need to totally remove the wheel. The ignition lock should have a couple of shear head screws in the top that hold it to the column. Usually you can get access to those by just removing the upper column trim which should have 4 screws in the bottom. Remove the screws and the trim peices pop apart then you lift the top section up and should be able to remove it.

Check in the parts for sale section. Pretty sure a couple people have timing parts for sale, they may have one they can send you. The 95 style is the more reliable of the two.

Is the check engine light on also? If no, Does the check engine light work when you turn the key On? Are any other warning lights on such as ABS?

Yep.

The rear one is easy. Remove the two bolts and the cover pulls off. Pick the old o-ring off, clean it, new one on and wiggle the cover back on and bolt it back down. The front one on the drivers side requires removing the camshaft timing sprocket, which basically means doing a timing belt job. There are plenty of other things to check while you have the engine out and access is easy. The oil pump backing plate screws tend to get loose and back out. Then oil pressure drops off and can cause major engine damage, like chewed up rod bearings. The oil pump needs to be removed to check those. The separator plate and the small access cover on the back of the engine are common leak points. The separator plate should be replaced with the new metal design if its plastic. The access cove can be resealed with a new O-ring or RTV. Valve cover gaskets leak all the time. Those are much easier to replace with the engine out.

See if the same happens when the AC is not running. The evaporator shouldn't ice over, because it's supposed to have a temperature sensor stuck in the middle of the core somewhere that shuts the compressor off if the core gets too cold.

Check the ID tag on the strut tower, or maybe on top of the header panel. Also check the emissions label on the bottom of the hood.

It should come off with the manifold.

The term "bellhousing" includes the part of the engine that mates with the transmission. On some of the newer models the VIN stamp may be on the top. If the harnesses are different, more than likely you just need to swap the original intake manifold onto the "new" engine. The manifold carries with it the wiring and sensors. Pay close attention to ECT and knock sensor placement, swap those if necessary. Also make sure the heads have the same plugs on the AVCS solenoids, and the oil pressure sensors. Those may not be swappable, but I'm thinking they should be the same. The only other sensors left are the cam and crank position sensors, and the oil pressure sensor on top of the block. Those should be able to be swapped if they are different. (They should be the same) If it TGVs at the bottom of the intake manifold, those may need to be swapped as well.

Shop damaged the tensioner. The one piece tensioners are difficult to re-compress. Very easy to damage. It loses tension on the belt and allows it to jump timing. Bent valves are good possibility. Unload both cams by turning the drivers side cam timing mark to 6 o'clock, passenger timing mark to 12 o'clock. You'll be able to easily turn both cams about 60°, and all valves should be closed. Then repeat your leakdown test.

Wait, the permatex green isn't good for rubber?! That's all I've used for years! I haven't had any problems with it... At least that I know of.

VIN stamped in the lower right corner of the bellhousing. 10 th digit is the year. If no VIN, there are some other ways to get close by looking at head design(DOHC/SOHC, active valve control solenoids), intake manifold, etc.

As Texan said, lots of causes for this. Easiest check is the air vent for the canister. Spiders/bugs build nests in them and clog them up. On older cars the canister vent has a separate round filter mounted above the canister. Pull the hose off of that and see if it will take fuel. If it doesn't, pull the hose off the canister itself and try. If the car has the canister with the built in rectangular filter on the end, there is a valve built into or otherwise attached to the canister that should be checked for operation via putting the ECU in test mode. Make sure the valve clicks. If it doesn't the valve is probably stuck closed. Try filling with the vent hose removed from the canister. If it fills with the hose removed the canister needs to be replaced.

If it just rusted out along the frame just replace that frame section with rubber ATF cooler hose. I've never had to replace the ones that actually attach to the trans, but I know you won't find them aftermarket. If the banjo fitting is OK, but the line is rusted out, cut the bad section off, flare the end and run 3/8" rubber ATF cooler hose from there to the radiator. I get it at Napa for about $3 a foot.

I've replaced quite a few cabin air filters lately. Most manufacturers recommend replacing them every 6 months to 1 year. I don't even know how many I've replaced that looked like they are the original filter from 5, 6, 10 years old, and they are absolutely filthy. One had about 3" of leaves and pine needles sitting on top of it. If you're having trouble with the drain, more than likely the filter is gone or has deteriorated and fallen apart and a bunch of crud has fallen into the evaporator housing.

Aftermarket drive axles are know to be problematic on these. Especially aftermarket rebuilt. FWE out in Denver does nothing but rebuild Subaru axles and does high quality work. A bit pricey but worth the cost because you get an original Subaru axle. You can buy a CV boot kit and clean and re-grease the joint and save yourself some headache vs having to replace a cheap axle 2-3 times. If you live in the rust belt, the bearing housings could be rusted into the knuckle. Start spraying with penetrating oil, and be prepared to get out the BFH to coax the bearing out. The axle nut can be very tight. A cheater pipe may be necessary to get that loose. Again, if you live where things rust, the axle splines could be rusted into the hub.

Haha! I guess the cuss-filter doesn't have that one on the list! Aluminum corrodes. Using it as a shim sounds like a good idea, until you have to scrape all the corrosion out of the terminal and off of the battery post. Stainless doesn't corrode, at least not easily. Quick tip about battery terminals: when installing a terminal onto the battey post, the top of the post should stick out at least 1/16" above the top of the terminal. If the top of the post isn't sticking out above the terminal, it isn't making full contact, and it leaves a small area at the top where corrosion can start inside the terminal. If it doesn't fit down all the way on the battery post, use a screwdriver or something to get the ends pried apart so the terminal fits all the way down to the bottom of the post. In the picture above, the positive terminal is fine, the negative terminal isn't pushed down far enough.

Try adding 1/2 quart of MMO or 1/2 can of Seafoam to the oil 100 miles or so before your next change.

Regular HLA noise will come and go. It usually goes with fresh oil. If you have constant HLA noise, (all the time, regardless of oil condition, or temperature) the HLA is collapsed/stuck or the feed port in the rocker arm is clogged. If the whole bank (all HLAs on the same head) is making constant noise the feed port in the rocker shaft is clogged. This starves the rocker shaft of oil and can cause severe wear to the rocker arms and rocker shaft.

Rent a car. You don't know for sure which head is compromised. The gasket could have been bad before the incident and you're only now noticing the symptoms. You've figured it out the hard way now, but for future reference, you can't pull the injectors out of these willy-nilly. The injectors are side feed type, so the lower o-ring on the injector seals the fuel rail around the injector. When you pull the injector out, all the fuel in the rail dumps out into the intake port, and when the valves open (if they aren't already) all that fuel dumps into the cylinder. This can cause hydro-lock of the cylinder when you attempt to start the engine, which can bend the connecting rod. If you let it sit for long enough all that fuel will run past the piston rings and drain into the oil pan, leaving you with highly fuel-diluted oil. Fuel thins the oil which can cause bearing damage. It leaves varnish in the engine which leads to the formation of sludge and "coke", which is a thick black tar-like coating left behind by evaporated petroleum based liquids. Its best to change the oil before starting the engine if a large amount of fuel goes directly into the cylinders. Fuel has low surface tension, so it quickly runs through small areas and can cause dilution of the oil.

Did you check it for spark when it doesn't start?

No! Trans fluid is Dexron III ATF. Most "Multi-vehicle" or generic ATF will meet Dexron III spec. Gear oil (front and rear differentials) is GL-5 80w-90.