Fairtax4me

The low pressure side only tells part of the story. And if you're using one of those little cans with the plastic guage those really aren't that accurate. The 03 should run about 18-28 psi on the low side on a 90° day. The expansion valve regulates the pressure drop from high to low and will usually maintain around 25-28 psi on the low side even if the charge is a little low. But if the charge is low the refrigerant will freeze the evaporator core and the system will turn off until the core gets back above a certain temperature. If the system is turning off because the core is freezing, adding some refrigerant will fix that. The other thing to check is to see of the compressor clutch is getting power when the system stops working. If the clutch is gettin power, but isn't engaged there's a problem with the clutch. It may need adjustment, which can be done with a special tool. Or you can replace the whole compressor. If the clutch is NOT getting power, it's because of the safety switches that are on the system to shut if off either due to incorrect pressure or temperature.

I don't like to throw parts either. They leave dents. Some of 'em can fly pretty far though! Might check the voltage at the coil (center/yellow wire). Low voltage would cause a weak spark. If the starting fluid keeps it running rent/borrow a fuel pressure guage and see what kind of fuel pressure its making.

Newer models have problems with an o-ring on the return fitting to the pump letting air in. The air makes it whine. New o-ring fixes it.

They're tiny. M4 maybe. And they're always stuck. Needle nose vice grips.

Will it keep running on starting fluid?

Not necessarily. With the bearing design on these cars you only load one half of the bearing (inner/outer) when turning. Turning left loads the inner half of the left bearing and the outer half of the right bearing. If the inner half of the right bearing is the bad half, the noise will subside, even though the right wheel is loaded.

What year and model? Possible the charge is just low. There are a few years that are having trouble with the compressor clutch not engaging properly. Basically the AC works for a little while then it stops.

You can either keep riding it until you know for sure which one is bad, or you pull the axles out of the hubs so you can spin the hub by hand. Or find a shop with a Chassis-Ear kit.

Turn the AC on and open the hood and make sure both radiator fans are running.

Circlip inside holds it. Just like the axles on every other car on the road. No more special Subaru where you can change the axles without dumping fluid everywhere. Pry-bar between the axle cup and the trans. Use the bolt that holds the bearing retainer ring as a fulcrum. A quick pop should get it out. If not, apply pressure and give the prybar a good smack with a hammer.

Dorman 911609. Rockauto lists it as "EGR Vacuum Solenoid" under the Emissions tab.

As said above, Probably a bad BPT valve. The goofy looking black cylinder with the shiny sticker on top mounted just left of the EGR valve.

I've ordered the beck Arnley gasket set from rockauto. The head gaskets are junk. The rest are fine (o-rings, valve cover gaskets, etc.) but the head gaskets themselves are just trash. Probably the head gaskets didn't seal properly. Get some Felpro head gaskets. Same as OE Subaru. Half the cost. Be sure to have the heads re-surfaced.

Lower left side of the dash. If it's not behind a little flap it will be just below/behind the bottom corner of the knee panel.

Most cars still run open loop for a few seconds even on a warm restart. O2 sensors can cool below operating temp in just a few minutes and have to re-heat when the engine is restarted. Can you put an inline spark tester on and see if its missing spark when it misfires? How about a noid light on the injector?

Alright. Back to square one. Are you SURE you're getting spark? When you checked for spark before, how long did you crank it? 2-3 seconds? 10 seconds?

If you drop the exhaust manifold from the heads and start it do you still get white smoke? Did you check the pressure regulator? Can you pull the manifold up and check the injectors for leaks?

Might have a bad MAF sensor. Does your parts car have a MAF you can swap in?

It comes up from along the side of the passenger strut tower. Should be hanging somewhere right by there.

Stainless steel isn't nearly as strong as regular steel. The threads tend to gall very easily, and is probably why you've had the repeat break. Use some good yellw coated steel bolts. Grade 8.8 or better. Car looks great! Wish we had some from that era over here! We don't even see them from the 80s anymore around here.

Usually pretty easy to tell if its the hose at the pump. It's not hard to get to from underneath. 1 clamp at each end and you can pull it off.

It works because when you swap the engine the purge valve doesn't change. You replace it, but you replace it with the same valve. The engine is just a vacuum source. The purge valve merely turns the vacuum on or off. This is something to do with the pressure source solenoid and the way the 2.5 ECU uses that to check evap pressure. It determines purge flow by monitoring evap system pressure.

Did you change front and rear end links? Did you check the bushings where the sway bar bolts to the frame?

Is the steel line leaking? The elbow hose that's down by the pump is a somewhat common leak point. If it's the steel pipe you have to pull the intake manifold off to get that pipe out.

Upper starter bolt holds the top corner of the bellhousing to the engine block. Get rid of the junkzone starter. The starter is a gear drive and the pinion is not engaged when it is drawn back inside the housing, so you should be able to spin it. Remove the cover on the back of the solenoid and push the plunger in to slide the pinion out and engage the gear train. Kinda sounds to me like you have a power or ground issue to the starter. Make sure the main ground cable is attached to the bracket which is held by the upper starter bolt. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and secure. Make sure the positive cable to the starter is clean and tight.