Fairtax4me

Only if theyre constantly grounded. When you have voltage on both sides it's because there is no ground. When grounded the voltage on the ground side of the circuit drops off.

No misfires on cold starts? Only misfires on warm start? Does misfire occur while the ECU is in open loop? Then go away once it hits closed loop?

Adjusting nut is on the cable end at the release lever. (Just under the clutch cable) Just turn the adjusting nut back a few turns and that will loosen the engagement. Its adjusted too tight if its interfering. It should never keep the car from rolling forward. It should only hold the car from rolling backward down a hill. If you want to disengage it entirely just remove the cable from the release lever, then pull it back through the bracket on the bellhousing and push it off to the side where it can't interfere with the lever.

The only way this happens is if the seals on the limited slip unit fail and the fluid inside leaks out. Some of the 99-01 years did have a problem with a snap ring on the limited slip unit failing and allowing it to pop open and leak the fluid out. This causes a loss of drive power to the rear wheels on slippery surfaces. Basically no AWD.

No no no!!! Horrible advice! DO NOT USE friction modifiers in the manual trans on these cars. It coats the synchros and makes it impossible to shift. It will make every gear grind. The limited slip unit in the center differential does not use clutches, it is totally SEALED. It uses its own silicone based fluid. It DOES NOT MIX with the gear oil in the transmission. If the center diff has locked up it has to be replaced. That's the only way to fix it.

I think we all learn the hard way to open the cap to check the fluid level. Of course most of the cars I deal with the brake fluid/clutch fluid reservoirs are so dirty you can't see anything from the outside so it has just become automatic for me to take the cap off. Definitely do not assume that if it LOOKS like its full from the outside that it really is.

I'm kinda thinking an injector issue as well. Possibly the o-rings on the injectors are leaking. Does it look like the injectors or fuel rails have been pulled out of the manifold? It's not easy to check the injectors on these. You can prime the system then clamp off the fuel return and supply lines and check for the fuel pressure to drop. If you can pick up a set cheap it may be worth it to just swap them out.

For now, no. When you do finally go forced induction you probably will need to get one.

Bracket that the large alternator pivot bolt tightens against. It sits on the back arm of the alternator, the bolt slides through and threads into that.

Nuetral switch on the trans? Is it broken? Too tight against the shift selector shaft?

Make sure all the breather and PCV hoses are connected to the intake properly and none are split/broken. Make sure the intake tube is clamped tight at both ends. Is the check engine light on? Have you checked it for codes? The ECU will try its hardest to get idle speed down to proper 700-750rpm and will do several things in attempt to get there. Loosen the throttle cable so it's not pulled tight. If the ECU thinks the throttle is open it will run too lean when starting. Will set codes for idle speed and possibly throttle position as well. And if you had the battery disconnected you should disconnect it again so the ECU can relearn proper idle fuel settings at closed throttle instead of trying to run on the current setting where it's seeing 10% throttle all the time.

All seasons work "fine" in snow, but there is no substitute for a dedicated snow tire. Especially when braking. If you're driving in snow every day, get a set of actual snow tires.

Ethanol readily absorbs water from the atmosphere, and once it has absorbed all it can the water/alcohol separate from the gasoline and fall to the bottom of the tank. If the cap was gone water will get in the tank anyway. Pull the supply line off the fuel filter and stick it in a clear bottle. Turn the key On a few times to pump some gas into the bottle and check it for water.

Probably for cruise then. If these didn't come with fog lights the wiring wasn't installed. But they did put the cruise wiring in, whether it had cruise or not. If you have a pick-n-pull type junkyard near you, find one with fog lights and get the whole setup.

Runs for a second, then dies, then it won't restart after that? I would usually say that's a loose hose on the intake tube. But that usually makes it run lean. Fuel pressure? Too low and it will just dribble fuel into the cylinders. Won't vaporize so it doesn't burn. How old is the watery ethernol gas in it?

Yes, 96 Legacy L had the canister at the back. I think the 2.5 cars still had the round can at the front. I don't think the ECU is looking for any valves or other evap stuff that isn't already on the car. If it's looking for a valve that isn't there it will set a code for the circuit for that valve. Its possible one of the valves at the back isn't getting any command to open/close, and the ECU is Not looking for it. (Valve wasn't present on the 2.5 car) That can be determined by putting the ECU in test mode and checking all of them for operation. If they all work then they're at least being told to open/close. Whether they're being told at the correct time/order is impossible to tell without a scan tool or SSM.

Those chemical block tests don't work on these. Don't know exactly why, they just don't. Head gaskets it is. Do a leakdown test and you'll see bubbles flying out of the radiator when you pressurize the cylinder with the bad seal.

What year and model? Fog light connector is orange/brown colored and has 5 wires. Cruise connector is in there too. Should be on the right side. Fog light switch is on the left.

Book rate often pays more time than an experienced mechanic will need. But if you find a shop that charges $60-70 per hour, you're under $1,500 for the whole deal including the engine cost.

Use a Subaru donut gasket. The cheapos don't fit right and always leak.

I think solenoids 1, 2, and 3 come as a set. It's a bank of 3 solenoids and I don't remember if they're connected or not. Used is a good option here. They don't fail very often. You may be able to find new ones if you search around. There are a few retailers out there that sell rebuild parts for the 4eat.

New 205/70/15 you can usually get 4 tires between $75-125 each depending on brand and quality. Depending on your areas labor prices, expect to pay $15-25 per tire for mount and balance. Plus $3-5 per tire for disposal. There are a LOT of older trucks and SUVs in my area with 15" wheels, so the used tire places here always have 15" tires.

Running no thermostat keeps the engine from reaching proper operating temp. Causes wear in the cylinder walls and to the piston rings. Also when the coolant temp is too low the ECU is forced to run in open loop which gives a richer fuel mixture. Poor fuel economy, fouls spark plugs, overheats the cats, washes the rings. The real Subaru thermostat is huge. It's that way for a reason, because the larger design doesn't open and close as quickly as the small aftermarket ones. It provides better (smoother) temperature regulation.

Could have a dead ECTS. The ECU may think its -40 and is flooding it with fuel.

I bought it at about 220k. I have only driven it for about 1 year and 9 months. It was my daily when I was driving an hour to school every day for the past 4 semesters, unless there was snow in the forecast. I've owned it about 4 years, but I couldn't decide if I wanted to use it as a parts car or fix it up to drive. Eventually I decided it would be worth it to fix for better fuel economy going back and forth to school.