Fairtax4me

I had an aftermarket belt that was too tight and it caused significant wear in the idlers and tensioner bearings in only a few minutes of running. Get another belt. Have you checked for spark? The cam and crank sensors are both plugged in?

249,999... Rolled a quarter million today on the odo! Two weeks ago the bolts just randomly fell out of the center exhaust flange. I thought I had broken the rear cat again, but fortunately that was a simple fix. Last week it split the outer boot on the left axle. Got grease all over damn everything. I guess it split while I was in a turn, because I knew something was wrong when black grease splattered all over the windsheild! The whole inner fender well was painted with the stuff! It has earned the right to be temperamental. This weekend it gets new shifter bushings, and fresh gear oil, and a wash and wax. Should keep it happy for a while! Somehow this is the only picture I have of it right now. Edits: Picture link edit fun with imageshack...

The OBD2 determiner is usually the 16 pin OBD2 plug in the lower corner of the dash. No plug, no OBD2.

Ah ok. You MAY be able to modify your existing PSSSV to work. On one end there's a round black cylinder. It's just a filter stuck on a nipple. Twist/pull that off and run a hose from that nipple to a T in the line between the Purge solenoid and the line coming from the canister. Someone posted a photo of the hose routing diagram for the 25D a while ago (couldn't find it on a quick search). I THINK that's how it was done. No gurntees, but it won't hurt anything to try.

Probably a failed temp sensor. 95 Impreza was still OBD1 if I remember right. Which means you don't need a code reader to check codes. Plug some connectors together under the dash and turn the key and the CEL blinks any codes. Search google for Subaru obd1 codes or somethin like that and you'll find plenty of info. Other than that. How old are the Spark plugs and wires? They make a difference. Especially in the rain/wet weather, old plug wires can allow arcing which will hinder starting.

Don't know if it needs a different valve. The 2.5 may have used a different sensor for checking evap system pressure. Some of the 2.5s used the MAP sensor under the hood to measure fuel tank pressure during the evap purge. This is how it determines flow, by looking at the MAP signal while the purge valve is commanded open. Do you have access to the car you got the ECU from? If you do, you can probably get the pressure sources switching solenoid from that car, and follow the vacuum hose routing for that car and see if it will work on yours.

135 Ft-lbs. torque spec. Over tightening can crush the inner races and eat the bearing. Also subaru warns against tightening the axle nut with the vehicle weight on the wheel. Torque needs to be done before putting the wheel on. Could have messed something up while pressing the bearing in. Was the bore in the knuckle clean? Did the bearing get cocked crooked while it was being pressed? I re-read. I think what you did wrong was pressing the inner race onto the hub first. Leave the inner races IN the bearing, press the hub into the center after the bearing is pressed into the knuckle. There should have been a plastic ring in the center to hold the races against each other, that gets pushed out by the hub when you press the hub in. If you pull that out and the races slide apart, the rollers can get knocked crooked and/or score the race as you're pressing the assembly together.

What model 99? Does it have the square top MAF sensor?

Airbag light on means a code is stored. Search how to get the airbag codes for your year. There's a small black 6pin plug under the dash that you have to ground one of the pins and turn the key on and the light flashes the codes.

You'll need 96-99 Outback struts to fit 27" tires. Stock outback size 205/70/15 (26.5" I think) won't fit normal Legacy struts. The outback struts have a higher spring perch which gives extra room to fit the larger tire. There's just something so strange, wrong, and cool about a 60's mustang running 6lug Toyota wheels! Makes you wonder what else is going on underneath that body.

I don't remember the ratio for the release arm, but it's something like 3:1. An inch of travel at the top gives you 1/3" at the bearing end. It really doesn't take much movement to fully release the clutch. That said. IIRC, free play spec is only about 1/4". Release arm travel should be somewhere around 1-1/4" at the top. If your free play is too great the clutch may not fully release. Try adjusting so you have less than 1/4" of free play and see if the clutch releases. These do have problems with the release fork. The fork wears at the pivot and will eventually crack. Then it doesn't release anymore. This is usually pretty obvious when looking at the fork. It's possible it cracked after you put everything back together, but unlikely.

You don't realize how bad off they are until you remove them. You can pry them all around with a prybar and won't see hardly any movement from them. The ones on my 96 were literally falling apart. Amazon sells those bushings for about $22 a side. Aftermarket (Febest brand) probably solid rubber, probably won't last as long as OEM, but less than 1/4 the price. Replace them every two years until the car has rusted away and you still save money.

A Ford ranger with struts? Must be fairly new. Newest I've worked on is about 05 and they still had torsion bars then. Older than that used double wishbone and coil spring. King lift springs get you a little over an inch. That's the best you can reasonably hope for with any spring/strut combo made for Subaru. There may be some struts for another make/model out there that will work but you'll have to do some real research on that yourself. Lots of things play into whether a strut will work because the strut is the primary support for the suspension. It doesn't just hold the car up like a spring. It also determines caster, camber, and steering axis inclination.

I tried with a cheaper set of joints. The install went smooth, but there wasn't an good way to keep the new joint properly centered in the shaft. The inner circlips didn't touch the yoke when the bearing caps were pressed all the way against the joint. As a result the shaft was out of balance, I got it in balance by lightly tapping each cap with a punch to slide the joint a little one way or the other to center it. It took a long time, and lots of test driving to make sure it was right. After it was done I had to re-stake the yokes. It only lasted a few weeks and started vibrating again. To have it professionally balanced and have the joint welded in the proper place would have been about $125 per joint. An all new drive shaft can be bought for about $425.

Kinda sounding like the clutch disc is installed backwards. The friction surface of the disc should sit flat against the flywheel, and the pressure plate should sit flat against the clutch disc. The outer ring of the pressure plate will not sit against the flywheel until the bolts are tightened down. Tightening the bolts pulls the plate down on the flywheel, which pre-loads the diaphragm spring, and that's what creates the clamp force of the plate. If there was room between the friction disc and the flywheel surface, the disc is backwards. The center hub of the disc is jammed against the center of the flywheel, causing the input shaft of the transmission to be locked to the crankshaft of the engine. Gonna have to take it apart and pull the clutch out again. The disc will be warped from being clamped down backwards, so it will need to be replaced. Otherwise there's a good chance the center hub of the disc will break at some point in the future.

Have a leakdown test done to confirm a bad head gasket. At this point, it's been overheated enough times that the gaskets are probably compromised anyway. Water boils at 212 but the system is kept under pressure which raises the boiling point. Which is how American cars can run at 220° and not boil over. Also the reason why radiator caps say "do not open when hot". A system at 210° and under pressure can boil once that pressure is released.

Yeah just grab what you need. The wire harness may not just pop out. You may have to just cut/splice new sections of wire if any are damaged. Drop the pan on yours first and make sure to figure out which solenoids/wiring are damaged.

Will it go into gear with the engine off? You say you had trouble with the clutch disc/pressure plate when you put that on. Do you mean you could see that the disc friction surface wasn't touching the flywheel? I may have read that wrong before, thinking you meant the pressure plate wasn't touching.

Sounds like a fun garage!

Could be the evap purge solenoid is stuck open. Find the evap line where it comes up to the manifold by the other fuel lines. It's usually the bottom hose and the smallest diameter. Disconnect the hose and plug it shut or pinch it with some vice grips. Start the engine and see if there is vacuum at the metal line. Just stick your finger over it for a few seconds and you'll be able to tell. There should be no vaccum. If there is, it means the purge valve is stuck open. If you have no vacuum there plug off the metal line and take the car for a 10-15 minute drive and see if it starts acting up. Check again for vacuum on the metal line after driving. Sometimes the valve may stick open after getting warm. Reach under the dash and connect the two green test mode plugs, turn the key to On. Find the evap purge solenoid under the #3 intake runner and see if it clicks on-off in about 1 second intervals. It it does click, find the vacuum hose going to it and see if you can blow air through it. Air should flow then stop in relation to the click on-off. If air flows all the time the valve is stuck open or there's something jammed in the valve seat, and should be replaced. If it doesn't click its probably stuck open, replace it.

If you can't spin the outer part, the pulley bearing may be locked up or something in the clutch could have jammed. Try spinning the hub, if you can spin that by hand the compressor may be OK internally. You can remove the pulley with a special puller and see if the bearing locked up or if there is something jammed in there, but if the pulley locked up there's a good chance it has overheated the compressor and caused it to grenade inside.

Its one of the valves for the evap system. Not sure which, I'm not too familiar with the evap system on the early 90s cars. Got a junkyard nearby?

Non-interference engine. He just had it timed wrong. Slap Some head gaskets on it and drive.

I would check for a bad u-joint on the rear driveshaft. Those can be difficult to check with the driveshaft in the car so you might want to pull the whole thing out to heck it thoroughly. You can remove the rear half and drive the car and see if it makes a difference. Check the joints for play, also move them around by hand and check for rough spots. A u-joint can also seize and cause vibration problems.

I thought all the turbos used a pull type pressure plate. Not really sure why your Baja doesn't. Subaru has used pull plates since at least the early 90s on the turbo models. The pull type offers a higher and more consistent clamp load on the disc. They also seem to be less prone to the Subaru clutch shudder.