Fairtax4me

Crankshaft timing is corret. The timing mark is on the rear of the sprocket. Do not use arrows for timing. If timing were 90° off it wouldn't run at all. The cam sprocket bolts are very tight. Torque spec is around 60ftlbs IIRC. Put the old belt on the sprocket then wrap the belt around the crankshaft sprocket, pull it tight, and clamp it to itself with vice grips. That should hold the sprocket while you loosen the bolt.

You won't typically notice a head gasket leak with any kind of compression test. The buildup of compression happens more quickly than it can bleed off through a leak in a head gasket. Low compression is more likely to be a valve problem, or worn piston rings or cylinder wall. Lower compression during a dynamic test could even be due to a slightly different air fuel mixture in one cylinder. Do a static test. All 4 plugs out. Unplug the fuel injectors and the coil or igniter to disable fuel and spark. Hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine for 5 pulses.

Might PM CCR and see if Emily knows or can find out. Only things I can think of that might have changed would be stuff with the active valve control system. Anything else would be on the intake and you should swap the original intake onto the new engine anyway.

That's dynamic compression. That's a bit different. Dynamic compression changes based on engine Rpm and load. Was the engine totally warmed up? It needs to be warm for an accurate dynamic test.

Were all 4 plugs removed? Was the throttle held wide open? If not, need to do it again.

If the brake fluid isn't low and there are no obvious leaks its possible the fluid has boiled in the caliper/line and there is now air in the system. That car has a hill holder which keeps pressure on the left front and right rear brake while you transition from brake to clutch to keep from rolling back when starting on a hill. If the lever for the hill holder gets sticky it will hold pressure on the brake while driving. The hill holder is on top of the frame rail on the drivers side below the master cylinder. Move the lever by hand and make sure it moves easily and returns to the open position. Spray some penetrating oil on the pivot for the lever if it feels like its sticking. The hill holder is cable actuated by the clutch release lever. If the cable is adjusted too tight the holder may not fully release, and will keep slight pressure applied to the brake causing it to drag. If you can't work on it in the parking lot, have it towed home on a flat bed. Inspect the brake caliper slide pins. Make sure they slide easily. Try to compress the piston into the caliper and see if it is difficult. If it is, open the bleeder screw to release fluid while compressin the caliper piston. If it gets easier there may be a blockage in the hose or somewhere further up in the system, such as the hill holder mechanism. If it's still difficult the caliper bore is rusted and is causing the piston to stick. The caliper will need to be replaced. The brake fluid will need to be bled from the left front wheel at the very least. If the fluid in the reservoir is dirty you should bleed the entire system to get all the nasty dirty fluid out.

X2 make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.

Totally normal. Most clutches are that way. Torque spec on the pressure plate bolts is 132-144 INCH lbs. 11-12 ft. lbs. 12.4v at the battery means its almost dead. Charge it overnight and try starting again. Make sure the main ground cable is tight where it bolts to the bracket, and that the bracket is clean under the upper starter bolt. Also double check that your battery terminals are clean and tight.

If the nut on the end of the mainshaft was loose there could certainly be wear on the 5th gear hub because that's the last piece of the mainshaft. I kinda think something didn't get put back together correctly the last time it was apart. Ivan's imports made mention of the reverse idler gear having issues, but I don't remember the fix. He hasn't been on here for quite a while. I'll try to find some info about that later. Either way, it sounds to me like the transmission probably needs to come out to really get an idea of what's going on.

It's the pinch protection feature to keep your kids' fingers from getting chopped off by the window. I've read of some other people having trouble with the system being overly sensitive. Don't know what/if there is an ultimate fix, but I assume the previous attempt at fixing it was probably by spraying some silicone lubricant on the window seals. Being so new, I would take it right back to the dealer because it's covered under warranty.

It's internal. There's a round cover on the left side of the trans that holds the mechanism. It's basically a spring and a lever that has to be pushed out of the way in order for you to shift into reverse, so you can't go straight from 5th to reverse while rolling.

My neighbors 14 forester does that. I hear it every night at about 11:30 when he leaves for work. Has done it since the day he bought it brand new. Sounds like valve-train rattle to me. Similar to what happens when the anti-drain back valve in an oil filter goes bad and let's all the oil drain out of the supply ports for the heads.

Cats really only glow because there's too much unburned fuel being run through them. If the head gaskets were bad on the old engine and coolant was being burned, the cats are contaminated and are probably partially blocked which will cause overheating of any unblocked sections as all of the exhaust tries to push through a smaller area of the cat. Make sure the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking into the vacuum line. Make sure none of the injectors are leaking, especially if it has the side feed injectors because the o-rings around the injector base can leak fuel into the manifold. Glowing cats are toast. They need to be replaced, but check the injectors and FPR first so you don't burn up the new ones.

Quick and easy test for a bad ECT sensor. Remove the wire from the sensor and observe the guage. Ground the wire to the block and see if the guage swings to the other end. If the guage moves all the way through its range, good bet the guage and wiring is fine. Applies only to single wire sensor.

Dealers keep the plate and screws in stock because those things get replaced all the time. 20 years worth of Subaru engines use that plate, and every one of them leaks.

Is that while cranking? If so, what is the battery voltage while cranking? There will usually be a loss of about a volt through that circuit when its in operation due to the length of the circuit. If that's open circuit (unplugged) then something is definitely wrong.

The hill holder lever could be stuck, or If the cable is adjusted too tight it won't fully release and wil hold pressure on the left front and right rear brake.

Check the shift linkage where it attaches to the trans for anything bent or damaged. There's no adjustment but I have seen new linkage parts installed the wrong way causing drag against other parts. There could be a problem with the reverse check mechanism which will be difficult to inspect with the trans in the car. The bolts that hold the cover on are tiny and tend to rust and break.

Ahh it has that round solenoid that you can't do anything with. Those are no fun. If you poke around enough sometimes you can get a whole replacement solenoid but usually it costs as much as a new(rebuilt) starter. $50 is a decent deal for used. Only 2 local salvage yards in my area now and they both charge about $75 for a starter.

Try the classifieds here. There are a few people parting out cars of that era that may be able to send you a used MAF.

Then go Denso, or go home... as they say. Gurntee the durasmash will leave you in need of a mule.

The previous owner of my 95 lost the plastic bleeder screw and replaced it with a regular hex head bolt. Works good! Just had to cut a notch in the top of it for a screwdriver to fit.

No electrics on the manual trans, thus no solenoids/fuses. The AWD is purely mechanical. If you end up with torque bind, the center differential has to be replaced. Fluid changes do nothing because the viscous unit that goes bad in the diff is totally sealed and uses its own fluid which does not mix with the gear oil in the trans.

Evap canister purge solenoid. Agreed. Use your US intake and wiring. Check the reluctor teeth on the back of the drivers side intake cam sprocket and crank sprocket. Swap your originals on if they're different.

The hammer just persuades the plunger to make contact in a slightly different spot than before, which sometimes is a cleaner spot, which allows sufficient current to turn the starter motor. The motors themselves are tough. Lots of people pop in new contacts and run another 100k or more on the original starter. My 96 is about to roll 250k on the original starter.