Fairtax4me

Yep. Bolts is bolts. Typically bolts under the hood are 8.8 or 10.9 grade (metric equivalents of grade 5 and grade 8 sae hardware). Occasionally you find a 12.9, (head bolts sometimes) but not often. As long as you don't go with the cheapest cheap ungraded bolt it'll be fine.

The lower pins may have a rubber bushing on them. Using the wrong grease causes the bushing to expand and stick in the bore. If that's the case you need to replace the bushing. Use brake grease to lubricate the pins on reassembly.

The caps mentioned in the link above can be replaced for about $60 with parts from amazon. No need to replace the whole $500 unit.

Was the car wrecked? Was timing work done recently that could have caused damage to the gears? Do the cams still turn? Have seen several posts where the cams were starved for oil and seized up and caused the sprockets to break off. Best way is probably to pull the valve cover. There should be a couple flat spots on the camshaft where you can hold it with a wrench.

Move the shifter to D with the key off. Connect the diagnostic terminal pin 5 to ground using the ground pins in the harness. Turn the key On, then move the shifter to 3,2,1, then press the accelerator pedal and it should start blinking the codes. Code 11 is Duty A/ line pressure solenoid. There is a bank of 4 solenoids on top of the valve body on the right side. A is the first in the line, mounted separately of the others. If trans work has been done before pull the pan off and inspect the wiring. Could be a pinched wire.

Often they get loosened when someone needs to jack up the engine for room to get to spark plugs or valve cover gaskets. Its easy to forget because it's not in an obvious place. Get a M10x1.5 grade 8.8 or 10.9 bolt long enough to go through. Washers on both sides and a lock washer and nut. If there's a junkyard nearby you can scavenge one off any Subaru with an EJ engine.

That's just crud slathered around from the separator plate. Replace the o-ring behind the access plate on the other half of the block. Those leak too. RTV works if you can't get the O-ring, just be sure to get the surfaces VERY clean.

CF625UM made by Clarion. More info on the lid if you are adventurous enough to remove it and look. http://m.ebay.com/itm/251820550799?_mwBanner=1

Subaru calls it a "pitch stopper". Most pleople will refer to that as a dogbone mount. It helps keep the engine from twisting back/forth during acceleration/deceleration. Yes, that will cause a noise, escpecially since the bolt on the front of it is gone! You should check the rest of the mounts as well. I worked on a car a few weeks ago that was missing 2 of the bolts the hold the lower engine mount brackets to the engine, and the other two bolts were loose. That was letting the block walk around on top of the mounts and causing a clunk sound when starting and when the auto trans shifted.

Rack bellows get replaced all the time. How old are your tie rod ends? 240k miles old? Do the inner and outer tie rods and the bellows on both sides and you don't have to worry about any of that stuff for another 240k miles. (like 100k if you use aftermarket stuff) Ive been getting Beck Arnley inner tie rod ends with the boots as a kit from rockauto for about $25 each. The outers for about $20 each. Less than $100 in parts and shipping and the steering is brand new.

No no, one full revolution of the cam runs through the whole cycle, intake through exhaust. It takes two full revolutions of the crankshaft to get through the whole cycle. When all three are at the proper marks, the crank is on the power stroke for cylinder one. Each 1/2 turn of the crank moves it to the power stroke for the next cylinder in the firing order. 1-3-2-4.

When all of the makes are lined up both cams are in proper time.

Double post

Well the one will definitely have to be drilled out. Put the y-pipe back up against the block and try to hold it there with a floor jack or something. Start the engine and let it warm up to normal operating temp. This will get the heads warm and might help loosen their death grip on the studs. Drop the y-pipe down out of the way (use gloves) grab what's left of the ends tight with a pair of big vice grips and see of you can get them to loosen. Smack them with a hammer a few times (up toward the head) and it may help break the rust seal.

That happened to my friends honda as well. Spring broke out of its holder and jammed against the flywheel. New clutch kit and you'll be good to go. Be sure to replace those paper clip looking clips that hold the release bearing to the clutch fork. The clutch forks also have problems with the pivot point wearing and eventually the fork cracks, then the clutch doesn't release. If there is excessive wear in the cup where it pivots replace the fork also. About $40 for the fork and all the clips from a dealer. Don't forget the big Y clip.

Alright, if the module is reacting oddly then it must not be as cut and dry as power in one pin and ground through the three others. Luckily it must have a circuit breaker or something in it to protect the module. Probably in case of a short circuit/cut/chewed wires under the hood. I'll have to see if I can find a schematic for what's going on in the actuator. Wire diagrams don't tell the whole story.

Line up the timing marks and they're all on the correct stroke. The crankshaft turns 2 times for every 1 turn of the camshafts. At top dead center of the crank stroke it doesn't matter what part of the cycle its on, top dead center is top dead center. The cams determine which part of the 4-stroke cycle the crank is pushing through. (Intake, compression, power, exhaust)

Nope, this ones more like a full moon. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130468-more-progressquestions-on-legacy-reseal/?p=1111351 Theres an o-ring on the front of the drivers head between the cam support extension and the head. Same part number as the one behind the plate on the back of the passenger head.

There's a plug seal on the back of the head that does dry out and can leak when it gets old. (Like 200k miles) I think its about $15 from the Subaru dealer, that's about the only source for that plug. Easy to replace when the engine is out. Damn near impossible with it in. Tap a flat blade screwdriver into the side of the round part in the center to pry the old plug out. Clean the bore that it sits in and apply oil or grease to the outside of the new plug. Tap the new plug in with a hammer and a large socket that matches the outside diameter of the plug.

If its misfiring you'll definitely smell gas. A fuel pressure test may be a good idea, but if the pump were failing I think it would have died completely by now. A compression check may be a good idea. Also, because I've had this happen, check the timing belt. If one camshaft is out of time by one tooth you'll get misfires once the engine is warm.

Year model engine?

Pull the valve cover on that side and see if any of the valves are stuck open I guess. Maybe one of the rocker arms isn't sitting right or something?! I don't want to blame the valves unless the crank was lined up wrong while you were trying to tighten that cam bolt. The crank should be at half stroke at the right timit mark so there's no chance of the valves hitting if the cam moves accodentally. If you manhandled the heck out of it after it jumped and the piston and valves hit on that cylinder, maybe it could bend enough to hang open. These valves are not very big, it doesn't take much to bend them, but I think you still need to put some swing behind it to really bend the heck out of it.

Wiring changed in the drivers door I know. Dunno about the passenger door, but that really isn't hard to swap. The regulator may be different but that shouldn't matter because the window is the same shape. The regulator just moves it up and down. Make some accurate measurements and take pictures of the door and the profile inside the door jamb to compare.

Is it automatic or manual? Were you using something to hold the crankshaft still while removing/installing the crankshaft bolt?

X2 Broken reluctor tab on the crank sprocket will cause problems just like this. Make sure all 6 tabs are on the outer edge of the sprocket.