littlecars

Sweet, My frustration is over and now I have a great car again. I shouldent have to do any more major maintance for 100K. Next time I bet I could do the head gaskets in one day without sweating. The tourqe sequence was the same between the Flepro and the OEM gaskets, and I could not see a ovious diference between the two, but there is ovoiusly a difference Thanks agian for all the help, I would of not been able to fix it without the help.

O.K. I got it!!!!! I warmed it up and bleed the air off a ton of times. I got it all out now. Runs great, doesnt overheat! Thanks everybody for all the help! I would of never figured it out with out you. It is nice to have a depandable car again.

O.K. I just finished the car. It runs great now but...... Now it is getting hot. At first i let it idle for about 15 minutes then it started to get a little warmer than normal. I turned the heater on and it blew cold. I checked both radiator fans and they were both on. The radiator cap was cold so I took it off, it was a little low on water. I figured this was becouse there were air bubbles. I topped it off and let it idle for 30 minutes. I kept getting air bubbles, then I would top it 0ff with water. After about 30 min. there were no more air bubbles. I put the cap on and drove it. Now the heater works! After a few miles it starts to get hot again. I checked the radiator cap and it was cold. The upper rad. hose was hot and the lower hose is cold. Any idea what is wrong? I replaced the water pump and thermistat when the motor was out. I know I did not put the thermistate in backwards?

I just dropped the heads off to have the valve job done, becouse I didnt want to have a spring compressor. They just called me and said all the exhoust valve need replacing, they are hour glassed. They said this is very common. Is this true? Good thing you talked me into getting a valve job, or I would need a new motor when one broke!!!!

O.K. I will pull the motor again. I made sure I put the lifters in the right spot. I marked then wih a grease pencil as I took them out. I put them back exactly the same way. but since we are on this topic, can I verify this with a fealer gauge and check the gap? I did do both head gaskets and I will do both again. I will also do a valve job this time Your right, I am new at this. subarus that is. I have done several chevy 350 rebiulds, a few automatice tranny rebiulds, 2 or 3 toyota 22r head gaskets. I grew up on a farm working on tractors and stuff since I was a kid. almost exclusivly old carberated stuff. Nothing like a late model car thought. now I am a Automation/millright mechanic. It is like being a car mechanic but I fix rotory machinery, gear boxes, stuff like that at a oil refinery. So I am used to taking things apart very miticulacly and putting them back together exactly the same way. I am a fairly experianced machanic, way above the average "weekend warrior". but I am definitly not a automotive machanic, that is why I am hear. to ask all of you the questions that I do not know how to answer. I am glad I stumbled across this forum, I am thankfull for all the great help, advice and information that I have recieved and I am looking farward to being a member for a long time.

I think I might try to to the HG's with the motor in this time. What do you think?

At this point, will it do me any good to do a compresson check? I guess it might show me weather it is #2 or #4 is where the problem is? I have to replace the head gaskets anywheys and I will pull the valves out this time and check them for straitness and lap them. This explains the rough idle.

O.K., I just checked the vacumm. It is bouncing between 18" and 21". does that mean a valve problem? I am not going to have time to do a compresson check for a few days probably. I will let you know what I come up with.

I throughly cleaned and flat filed the intake/head surface. and used a new gasket. I did not disconnect the injector wires. they are definatly in the right spot.

heres a link to a photobucket page of pictures. I hope this works, this is the first time I have ever used photobucket: http://s983.photobucket.com/albums/ae316/littlecars123/

If you read the link you posted closely it states "some experts say heads that mate to MLS gaskets should not be resurfaced unless absolutely necessary".some experts say this and some disagree. I think that it sould be closely checked and only resurfaced if necassary. (Maybe we can agree to disagree)That why I used blueing and ran it acrost a quarts stone. The stone I used is certified every year and as flat as they come. this is the exact kind of stuff it is for. I am confident the heads are flat and just as smooth as factory, if not a little smoother. As far as lapping the valves, maybe I should have. my idea was that the car would be rusted out long before the motor would be worn out so I thought it would be a waste of my time. It ran fine when I pulled the engion apart. I figured it would run just as good when I put it together. but I guess I am wrong. Does anyone have a brand/model of compresson tester that they have found easier to use on a subaru? If I get off work on time tomarrow I will go buy a compresson tester and a vacume gauge.

does the tb look good to everybody? someone mentioned that if I had the intake and exhoust cams reversed I would have a problem like this. I would think that the woodruff key is in a place to where it I put them in reveresed the the timming would be way off.. I marked the cams before I took the out but maybe I made a mistake.

I did not disconnect the fuel injector to to the heads. I didnt event take the intake off. I just unbolted it and left it in place. Since then I disconnected the injectors cleaned the connections and reconnected them one at a time. I didnt lap the valves. The idle is rough. the motor shakes and shimmies. it reminds me of my old air cooled VW when one of the dual carbs was screwed up and only running on 2 cylinders. there is a little hesitation when i first hit the throddle but as soon as the motor speeds up it has good power and runs smooth.

drivers side upper pulley drivers side pulley drivers side lower pulley (the cammera is upside down, it is the only whay I could fit the camera there The hole thing

crank pulley upper passanger cam pulley passanger cam pullies lower passanger cam pulley