2Loyale

Hi Ivan The idle was steady. I could burp the throttle and it would momentarily drop, but would go right back up to about 3000 RPM. I just got the air control valve cleaned and reinstalled, new air filter, and general throttlebody cleanout. Problem solved Jon

Well I just pulled the air control valve. I have to run to town for some carb cleaner and a new air filter. Will post back with my results of the air control valve cleaning. Jon

Hi everyone it's been a while since I posted here. I just took a 250 mile trip in my loyale and now it idles very high. Seems to run ok, but idles at 3000 rpm. I am going to try and fix it tomorrow. Just wondering what could cause this? Vaccum Leak? Isn't there an idle selonoid on these? What about a slipped timing belt? Has anyone had this problem, and if so what did you do to fix it? Thanks Jon

So I pulled the valves out of the other head, and found more problems. The exhaust valve was very difficult to remove on one cylinder, and I found that it was bent and the valve guide had dropped almost an inch. I hammered the valve guide back in place and peened it a bit to hopefully keep it there. IT didn't move easily. So I need an exhaust valve now. I am wondering what the symptoms of this might be? Perhaps the valve wasn't closing all the way could this be realted to the white smoke? Any help would be appreciated

When will I be allowed to post pics in my messages? After a number of posts or time as member?

Ok thanks for the replies. I finally have made some progress. The heads have the cracks between the valves. No suprise there. Well after a couple of replies saying the heads should be checked for cracks into the valve guides, I decided I should check them over. This morning I built myself a redneck valve spring compressor (digger lags, flat stock, threaded rod)and pulled the valves out of one of the heads. This is what I found . . . The crack goes past the valve seat and about an inch into the head. I'm not sure if this is a problem or not. I was hoping not to see any more cracks after pulling the valves, but hairline cracks can be seen coming from the crack the was previously visible. They don't appear to go as far as the valve guides. I will know more when I go to town and get some cleaner and clean the valve ports up. How much crack is too much?? What about forcing JB weld into the cracks?

That is too funny. Yea I hope it is just the gaskets. Hope maybe tomorrow I will remove the exhaust and unbolt the heads.

I posted a while back about my two Loyales. 90, 92. The 90 is now a daily driver and works well. I like the car; it runs great (152,000 miles) and is quite nimble after driving a full size 4WD truck for so long. The problem is I would like to get the other Loyale on the road so the big truck can stay parked unless I need it. I have the motor in this car stripped down so that I am looking at the engine block and heads still mounted in the car. Wow lots to take off to get to this point. I am glad I can pull an identical car into the shop when reassembly time comes. I was wondering if any community members that have had EA82 coolant leaks would suggest where should I be looking for possible cracks? I have read that minor cracking is very common and not anything to be alarmed about. The intake gasket didn't appear to be leaking. I intend to put a strait edge on the heads and block to check for warpage and inspect the gaskets once I have the heads removed. Any information from people that have had coolant leaks into cumbustion due to cracking would be really helpful as I diagnose the condition of this block and heads.

I just finished working on this 1990 loyale, or so I thought. I am very happy with how the car goes. I cleaned the throttlebody, and used seafoam treatment. I feel the car runs very good and performs well for the 90 horse that it is. My problem is that the engine runs very poorly when cold. I will start it up and it will run a few seconds and die. IT will easily start back up and run a few seconds and die. After it is warmed up it works very well. and happily idles. Any Ideas?? Thanks Jon

Hi Tom and Cougar. Thanks for the information. I plugged the heater motor back in laying on the floor and verified that the fan doesn't work on the lowest setting. It was the smallest coil that was broken. It either burned out or the population of mice that were living in the area broke it. I will be putting the blower motor resistor back in as I can't see spending $50 so that I can have the lowest fan speed back. It is likely that the lowest speed will burn out first again anyway. If a man knew the right resistance he could solder a resistor back into the resistor pack. I'm not worried about it. I was going to post some pics of the work I am doing on the car, but apparently I can't attach files to messages until a certian number of posts or length of time. I took pics of the body work with fiberglass, dow great stuff, and bondo. Also I took a pic of the puller I constructed for getting the stearing nuckles off the shafts. Thanks for the help. Jonathan

First post on the USMB. I have read a bit in the last week lots of great information. I recently became the owner of 2 1990 subaru loyales and I am getting one of them ready for the road. The car is in pretty good shape and I have all the rust on the run and winding down on the body work. Replaced front wheel bearings. Since it is nearly ready for the road I decided to take care of that lovely mouse smell so I just got done tearing into the blower motor, Air conditioning exchanger and heater core. While cleaning parts and inspecting I noticed that there is a black box attached to the blower motor. If you look at the inside of the blower motor you can see that there are three coils attached to this box. One of the coils is broken on mine. My question is what does this part do? Thanks Jonathan