jrettenmayer

Thanks everyone for your replies. Sounds like I need to get some time to get my grounds done up better than they are now. I appreciate the help and all the knowledge!

Interesting... How about the ground for the ignition relay?

Wait, just read numchux's post more closely. "Everything for the engine control should be grounded to the block" - does this include the ECU? And how about the Select Monitor plug? Can't remember which one, or both, had a ground. I think I just grounded that under the dash to the framework for the steering column.

No...power sources for the ECU came all from the 4 wires running to the ignition (IIRC). I'll get a better wire for grounding the engine block to the battery, and also to the chassis. The wire I've got on there now is only freaking huge and black and runs from the starter to the NEG terminal on my battery... Seriously, though...you think I need more/better grounds? There is another one, maybe 14 gauge wire, running straight off the NEG terminal and bolted to the block also. I'd think with the negative battery cable and that other ground, plus at least one good chassis ground, I'd be good. I DO remember reading in chux's writeup that poor grounding is a common problem in this swap...:sigh:. Looks like I'm not done yet. On a side note, maybe someone had some ideas for another problem I've been having: every so often, the EJ just dies (at low idle, usually when I'm slowing down and making a turn). Think I need a surge tank or something like that? So far, it's just fired right back up, so I don't think it's anything major.

So...I did something I'm not sure others did - all my grounds are in the harness - I think it's engine connector E3 - plus a ground coming off the ignition relay. I don't think there were others. How should this harness be grounded?

Hello subaru experts! Question: I swapped an EJ (1990) into my EA wagon (1986). I can hear some noise in my speakers when the car is running, sort of a humming sound. The tone of the noise increases with engine RPM - somehow, I'm getting some sort of interference or something that is coming over the speakers. Any ideas what it could be?

ECU is the same, too. IIRC, it's all about the neutral switch wiring or something...anyway, most of the transmission stuff just gets cut out of the harness anyhow...you just want to retain the stuff for the two relays, the ECU, and the engine sensors. (I'm probably forgetting some stuff..oh! keep the cooling fan wiring, or better yet - just splice in a ONE-SPEED fan in place of the stock two speed fan)

Yes, it works fine. (at least mine does) You can order the pressure plate for the XT6 from whoever your local parts store or dealer is, as part of a clutch kit. The flywheel, I dunno. Check the dealer or online. I beleive it's pretty much the same as the EA flywheel - at least, the pressure plates are the same. I'm using an EA clutch kit and it works just fine, FYI...

Good points to consider...though, the wire from the alt to the battery is pretty short - shouldn't offer much resistance.

Does anyone know if this will work? Anyone know if 70 amps is enough current to run a couple of Hella 500s on top of the existing lights, ECU, and all the other draws in an EJ-swapped GL wagon? I first thought is yes...

I also have a set of brand new struts/shocks, if you're in need. I bought them from a member on this board, then decided I didn't really want to pull everything apart....nothing really wrong with the one's I've got on the '86 now! Anyhow, I got 'em pretty cheap, I'll sell 'em cheaper if you want them.

1. Wiring. Easy, just time consuming. You just need the wiring associated with the engine, ecu, and fans. Cut the rest out of there. 2. Mounts. EJ22 bolts right into the EA82. I did not have to modify the crossmember at all. 3. Use an adapter plate (search for SJR Lift...others make them too - ask around) to mate your EJ to your EA's transmission. Then, you don't have to modify anything else. Good luck.

You guys are a lot nicer than I was expecting...thanks. I'm trying to figure out how to stick a small winch between the bumper and my radiator now...I don't really want to do hood pins, but I have to do something with the bottom of the latch to keep it in place. Was thinking maybe a bar run basically from headlight to headlight that the latch could bolt up to perhaps?

I had the same problem, then realized that my throttle cable was too tight...maybe you just need to loosen it up?

Thanks for the concern Mugs - the hood open and closes just fine actually. It's close, but I did consider that when I made it. As I said before, if I do another one, it'll be spaced out a little further from the front of the car.

Hey, thanks guys! I kind of think it should move it out about an inch or so too, but it's a little late for that now. Maybe on the next one. This thing has been built basically all with hand tools and a chop saw, so if I do take orders, it'll be after I find a band saw for cutting all those angles! Hmmmm..a TIG welder would be nice, too...

More pics to come...

I did lots of searches for this, and found a few ideas...mostly pieces of pipe bolted to the front of the car. Found a couple real nice bumpers, but nothing that looked like I could fabricate with the limited tools I have, so I thought I'd design my own and get some feedback. Here's some pics for everyone - how's it look? Too homemade? Obviously, I'm not finished yet, but I'd see if anyone has any ideas...

Hmmm....maybe that's the gasoline smell I've been getting whiffs of.... Seriously, though...that's good advice gloyale. Happen to know off the top of your head the hose size of the return on the carbed GL wagons?

I just used hose clamps to take up the extra wiggle on the return line. Snug it down and it's fine. Also, just go and spend the $50 on a pusher fan. Make your life easy. They come with nifty little pieces so you can mount it right to your radiator and don't have to mess with any sort of custom bracketry to get your stock fan to fit where it was never designed to go. And that way you can fit two fans if you want.

So...you stuck the brake booster vac. line into the can and sucked up half the can? Wow. Is there that much carbon that builds up in the intake systems of these cars?

If you do get new studs/nuts, get them from the dealer. Apparently they are heat treated so that the nuts don't weld themselves to the bolts.

I put an EJ into my GL wagon that was attached to an automatic - just pulled the flexplate off and bolted the EA flywheel up (after some grinding on the bolt holes). I don't think there are any computer differences - the legacy had a separate tranny control unit. The only difference I can think of with the wiring between the auto and the manual is a neutral safety switch on the auto and a clutch safety switch or some such thing for the manual trans.

Ok... I eliminated the A/C - I think this isn't as hard as I'm making it out to be. I just want to know if I need to include the A/C short connector or not. I don't really see if it serves a purpose. The two wires back into the ECU are connected. Pin d17 on the ECU goes to the relay, yes? Thanks for your wisdom, guys.

Huh...ok. I did that, fan didn't really do anything. Well, it tried to move once when I grounded the Black wire and touched the Green/Black to the positive battery terminal. However, I think the battery might be too weak to make the fan operate. That is helpful, thanks! Now...it's 2 speeds. Which speed do I use? And, do I need to make use of the "A/C Short Connector"? What does that thing do? Also on this subject: The EJ temp sensor has a white/green and a red/green wire coming off of it. The white/green wire is spliced to the old temp sensor wiring coming from the gauges that run up to my gauges. The red/green wire runs to the computer (a21) and in the legacy harness also ran to the gauges. My temp gauge appears to be functioning properly currently - why did the red/green wire also run to the gauge cluster in the Legacy? Is it some sort of idiot light perhaps?