WagonsOnly

Don't I know it...even a registration with a reassignment form (when the back of the title has been filled in but the car's been sold again without being registered) is difficult if not impossible. And 1983? '84? is the cutoff year for emissions, no ifs, ands or buts--there's no 20- or 25- year wait period... The only reason CT is easier is because we're more corrupt. We just jack up the fees and don't provide the inspection services at all--keeps the crooks happy and the little guy feeling less taken for a ride

Mary: No, you're not supposed to get antique plates "off the shelf" but I have seen it done, and had it done for me, several times at the CT DMV branch in Enfield. The same goes for the "Greenways" plate (like the Cape Cod and Islands and Right Whale plates, only for CT drivers)--not to be issued except by transfer of a permanent plate, but I asked nicely and got one off the shelf. As for the emissions issue: NO vehicle is required to undergo an emissions inspection in CT if it is more than 25 years old, whether it has a permanent passenger (PAN in Mass-speak), antique (MA=limited operation/exhibition), year-of-manufacture (YOM) or temporary registration and plates. Vehicles entering from out-of-state are required to go to a DMV or Emissions test station location so that a gopher can match the VIN on the title to the number plates on the door post and windshield. This goes for ALL new registrations with out-of-state titles unless the car was purchased from a Connecticut licensed dealer or was supplied with a manufacturer's certificate of origin (new cars only). Antique plates can be used on commuter cars or special-interest exhibition-only vehicles. Mileage caps depend on your insurance company, not the plate/registration. Antique plates are again supposed to be issued as a transfer from a regular passenger plate, not off-the-shelf, but I again have gotten them and seen them gotten by people who have had temporary registrations. In case you're not familiar with them, temp plates are issued (10 days for $20 or 20 days for $40) for vehicles with out of state titles or that require emissions inspections, or both, before they are permanently registered. The CT DMV will not give you permanent plates until you have satisfied their requirement of VIN verification and/or an emissions test. Permanent plates can be acquired direct off the shelf only for cars that are new, CT titled and less than four years old, or previously CT titled and 25 years old or more. To use year of manufacture plates in CT, you have to: -Make sure the car is registered and has more than 6 months left on its current 2-year registration. -Find the YOM plates. -Bring them to the DMV, request the YOM plate form, and fill out an application for a vanity plate using the same numbers as the YOM plate. -If the plate is 5 characters or less, you can request antique plates or regular. Regular vanity plates must be ordered if, like me, you have a 6-character YOM plate (I have PR-2060, the original plate issued to my 1975 wagon, so I'd have to get a regular vanity plate). -Wait up to 6 weeks for your new plates and registration bearing the new (old) plate number. -You may then attach the YOM plate, but must stow the new vanity plates bearing the same registration number somewhere in the car. If your YOM plate was issued in a year that did not require a front plate and you only have one plate, you are not required to display a front plate, but must still keep both marker plates in the car with you and affix the registration validation stickers to the NEW plates, NOT the ones on the car, in the normal fashion (upper right hand corner of what would be the rear plate). That's why very few people go to the bother of year of manufacture plates in Connecticut. Finally, Connecticut currently has NO safety inspections for ANY passenger vehicles not normally available for hire. Trucks, livery fleets, school buses, etc. do have regular safety inspections, but not passenger cars. Bored yet?

Gentlemen: Can anybody here hook me up with a NOS FF-1? (used will do, ANY condition...)

Major GL-10 options were the touring roof, audio system (cassette decks were still an option on the window sheet and were usually dealer installed), metallic paint, roof rack, sunroof wind deflector, alloy wheels and floor mats. Unfortunately, order the touring roof and lose the power sunroof :-\ Turbo and nonturbo, front-, 4, and AWD were available, mated to a five speed manual or 3 or 4 speed auto.

Someone put a Chrysler slant-6 under the hood when you weren't looking? If it's fuel only, not oil, maybe there's a wire loose from the coil, or the jacket is broken on the coil wire and shorting out??

That's why I'm angling for a trade...the last 3 tailgate wagons in the States, possibly...all the same color and all in my driveway

Ah, that's right. You did him a favor, trust me--if you, me, and Connie hadn't kept at him to reduce his inventory he'd've impaled himself on a steering column at three in the morning and we would have lost him :-\ Please post pics when you're done with the dash. I've never bothered with a dash cover as the car is always covered or garaged (the '75 has been driven 7 miles since I got it and I'm projecting maybe 2K a year in the '73) As for the "bed cover"--you mean a plastic liner tray or a tonneau--type deal?

Probably that, and a '75 looks too much like an '84 ('92 when you look at the Cabrio). They're just too far ahead of their time. (I did love both my bunnies dearly...RIP Rabbits) And I have no intention of ice-racing a 32-year-old FWD Subaru, sorry, Jon, Paul. You know how it is.

So what did you end up doing--is it still cracked, or did you get a new dash (or dash pad)? Both my Gen I dashes are perfect, but I do have a large crack in the center of my '82. I'm looking forward to hearing what Matt finds out.

Literally anything that has an oil base will prevent rust. I did that to my '75 a couple years ago when I was forced to park it on dirt. Another tip: Instead of a "spraying apparatus", just look on eBay for a used Pampered Chef or Williams-Sonoma olive oil mister. It does the trick without costing a fortune or taking hours to create, is maneuverable and easily refillable.

Of course I didn't stuff the salesguy's back pocket for an early end to the auction Seriously, they didn't know what they had and if they'd let it go to the end...it wouldn't have been mine. tailgate, would you consider a trade--both your wagons for Jon's old 360 sedan? Pics are in his album but I can get you more. No commitments, just throwing that out there. Obviously we'd have to work out shipping. Edit: The total cost for mine was as follows: (this is just FYI) 2,599 car 461 airline tickets 120, about, for premium gas, lead additive, oil, tolls & food on the way home So mine was actually a little over 3k, but it's mint, had all the original paperwork, the 1973 WINDOW STICKER!, and the original owner's niece met me at the dealer and gave me the car's entire history.

Build quality, durability, longevity, reliability, ease of use, cargo space, interior design, exterior styling, seat comfort, driving position, control layout, flip-up headlights on all my XTs that have NEVER failed me, the ability to hop into a car almost as old (or older) than I am and drive cross-country without doubting whether or not I'm going to make it to my destination (I've made 4 trips in the past year like that, sometimes never having seen the Subie before I go)...pretty much everything but the blasted cupholder

I've had my yellow '75 since about 20 minutes after I first met moosens, when he was starting to liquidate the FSCR. That was (according to the post on the old board, I looked it up) around 6:30pm June 29th 2003. Then my '73 I first became acquainted with at the beginning of June this year. Didn't pick it up 'til a month thereafter, though.

Thanks for letting me drive the "real" Brat through 500 miles of NY/PA wilderness...looks like that one's a slightly tighter fit

Yes, but then he can go through emissions without a tailpipe and 10W40 in the gas tank, fail, go back with a failure notice, <i>get permanent plates</i> and be all set for the next two years. You're given 30 days to comply with emissions regulations after a failure. After that--it's a $20 fine billed by the DMV, and they don't renew your registration until you take another test (but they don't cancel it, so that gives you two full years to drive around legally as long as you pay the fine).

I have one I'll sell for only $8,999.95--and that includes twice the experience of this one! I can't imagine anyone will pay that kind of money for any of these cars in the next 20 years. Also, the wheels don't look original.

Weeellll...for new registrations without currently valid emissions, they won't give you a plate until you take the test (you get a cardboard temp plate), but you can get a permanent reg. after you give them your test results (pass or fail).

One: Running and registered Justy Two: Running and registered XT6es One: Running and registered XT6 in the driveway (not mine) One: Running and registered Forester (my dad's) One: Running and soon to be registered Loyale About ten that'll move under their own power Two GL-10s that won't (one wrecked, one rusted), one parting XT, one 3-door with no brakes and interior but that will run and only has 74K, and I think that about covers it...

Umm, Paul, where've you been? Check the DMV website, Connecticut now only inspects salvage-titled vehicles and does emissions inspections for 24-to-4 year old vehicles. So unless you were trying to register your Subaru school bus...you're home free on safety. THERE IS NO INSPECTION FOR CLASSIC CARS EITHER. All they do is verify the VIN# if you're registering with an out-of-state title.

Leak in the fuel line somewhere maybe? Or the filter? If you're only getting 10mpg it should be belching something visible somewhere, or leaking...

I'd go as high as $2000 if it's turbo and has no rot. But bear in mind you should probably flush the tranny, at the very least. The 3AT has a well-deserved bad reputation.

Voicemail is still not working, email me. The green '75 fenders were totally rotted and you pitched them when you took them off the car. I got a set of blue ones and the green rear quarters and doors that you gave me with the car. I also have the maroon fenders and trunk lid, I think, and also perhaps a silver sedan trunk lid...if you need 'em I'll make sure.

I gots an oversize rolling toaster

Only rust here is on the fender tops of the '75 (no, Paul, I still haven't put the replacements on, that'll be before I get it repainted) and the parts 360s.

I think this is in the wrong forum...if your Brat is a 1.8, this should be in Older Gen.