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The arrows are TDC.

Maine to North carolina. Toying with the idea of just taking the GL instead... Lifted GL 1000 mile road trip would suck a bit, but it would get me and my couple small bags of stuff there.

Seized my engine today... So much for moving 1000 miles on monday.

It's only a 30 second video. It's a vid of what looks like subarudave's GL with the full STi swap.

so all the wheel bearings are tight and don't present any grittyness when turning the wheels. Unless this is a very very early wheel bearing failure sign, they're fine. And if it's a very early sign... they have probably 10,000 miles left... Also, it's not linked at all to the brakes. I let the car come to a stop while going up hill, and it still makes the noise.

GRUMBLE! So I went to winterize my GL for sitting a while when I'm gone. I pulled the plugs to spray that fogger stuff in the cylinders. The driver side ones threaded out faster than the pass side ones, and they didn't thread out at all by hand, I had to use a wrench to get them the whole way out. BAD SIGN! I've never had the plugs out of this before... So the gap on all the plugs was a bit excessive and since I already had a set of new plugs sitting on the shelf I decided to throw them in. It appeared they weren't put in before with anti-seize, so I put a dab on the threads and put them in... pass side went fine. Driver side... ergh. They only thread in half way, wtf. So upon further inspection, half the threads on the driver side plugs were rusted... the crush washer wasn't up against the plug, the washer was rusty and where it's supposed to touch the plug is rusty. Furthermore, the seat in the head that's usually shiny when you pull out a plug is covered in grime. Stuck my finger in the hole (NOT what she said) and the threads feel all buggered up. I don't think these were ever threaded all the way in. Unfortunately I only had one insert, so I ordered more at the parts store that I'll get tomorrow morning. Stuff like this sucks... Fortunately EA81 makes it wicked easy to access the plugs, I've had to do this on an ej22 and it isn't as fun.

I have a friend who lives in sweeden. He's a nut job, and in the winter rides a dirt bike with spiked tires. His doesn't have coolant through the carb and he's actually had it freeze up on him more than once, sticking the throttle open. Living in a cold climate, I'd probably keep the coolant lines there.

I drove 30 miles with headlights and windshield wipers going just on battery power with a broken alternator, and no signs of it dying when I made it home. You could probably go a very long way on a charged battery with lights off.

It ONLY does it decelerating from 20mph down to just under 10mph. In forward or reverse, although SLIGHTLY different in reverse. So I'd say, yes, linked to vehicle speed. But not linked to any gear or engine rpm.

Grumble. But good thought, I'll definitely check that!

1998 legacy GT, 2.2 swap, automatic. 242k miles. When I'm slowing from about 20mph to just under 10 it makes a noise like a turbo spooling down, it sounds like it's coming from the front of the car, but with that kind of noise sometimes it's hard to tell. It will do it in N-1-2-3-4, and even with the engine shut off. It also makes the sound going in reverse and slowing down from about 20 (that was fun to test..) Stuff I've done. Drain/fill of the transmission a few times - 3k miles ago. About 2k miles ago the front diff started complaining so I drained about a pint of really nasty liquid out. Filled it up with fresh gear oil, and it's been quiet. Hasn't discoloured (so no ATF mix), just dropped a little since the axle seals leak kinda bad. No big deal, I just top it up every few gas stops. But that's about it for maintenance, it runs and shifts really nice, just this weird noise started up. I know it's not the engine because it happens if I shut the engine down, it's gotta be drivetrain something.... just dunno what. Just make me nervous since I'm moving 1200 miles south on Monday.... I know I've seen a thread similar to this in the past, but no luck finding it.

So when you put it back together you did have it two notches past where it was before? Thanks for clarifying the process, I've never seen it explained like that before!

I dunno where that is... But I'm moving to Beaufort area from Maine this coming Monday! Welcome aboard.

What do you mean check the bearing retainer ore-tension? I thought as long as you threaded it in the same amount it threaded out, it would end up being the same as before.

I don't know a whole lot about the ej20. In the US we only got the 2.0 with a turbo. But the 2.2 is a very reliable motor, mine has over 315,000 miles on it and the thing is still running strong. A bit of piston slap, but that's nothing much to worry about. Maybe some valvetrain noise, but that just means I should adjust the valves..

I had the same thoughts going, I wonder if there's any more information about that?

Got some stuff to put my GL into hibernation. Only place to park it is off my driveway sorta in the woods :/ So I'll park it, jack it up, change the oil and do all the stuff to make it a happy hibernating car. I might be back to it in a month, might be a year. So I have to do it right. Gonna miss the thing, never let me down in the two years I've had it, and I won't say I drive it like a grandma.

If the wiring checks out you can have the battery tested at most auto part stores. It may have just died though. That happened to my legacy without warning. It was a cold morning, but it cranked over and started up just fine. Didn't crank slow or anything, no failure warning. Got in my car to get lunch and the remote unlock didn't work... Battery totally dead. I worked at a garage so I got a booster pack, upon plugging it in I got a huge spark like I directly shorted out the leads. My battery just plain shorted out and died while sitting there. Threw in a new battery and got lunch... but weird. It's more common than you think. Once every week or two we'd get a car because it was fine then failed to start, battery either completely or partially shorted out.

Yea, sorry. Read above, I got incorrect information at one point (which ended up costing me), and now I've gone and spread it

When I first got my GL and started digging in to it to get it just right for me, I thought the same thing... I was making like three trips to napa a day. Then I got it all back together... and nothing has really gone wrong with it in two years. Once you get it going they're so damn reliable!

For some reason I had it in my mind that the trailing arms were different, because when I bent one in my legacy someone told me one out of an outback wouldn't work.... hrmmm.

Because metered air is escaping the system. Air comes in, exhaust goes out. Now since air is getting out somewhere besides the exhaust, that's an air leak... just sayin' Your chevy is prolly tuned to run like that. Different animal.

you could try swapping lines for the front and back washers. If you turn on the rear and the front washers spray... you know the pump is working. If the front washer doesn't make the rear spray, you've just diagnosed a clogged line. Probably at the nozzle. Or just blow through the rear line. If you can't blow through it, probably clogged.

It looks pretty good to me! Those tires look a little silly though, with a bigger tire it'll look better and get you a bit more lift. You need longer trailing arms, not just brackets.

Now that I think of it, the back pump is a bit higher up on the tank. Probably so when you get low on fluid you don't waste it on your back window. My bet is the pump isn't used much and seized, it's happened to me. If you take the pump out and force the rotor around it'll free up and work again. Say what you will... But I did that and it's been working fine for over a year since.