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Climate control out of any 2nd gen legacy will work. Some have a different colour AC button, and the red/blue lines are a bit different. But they're still interchangable.

As I said further back: I always tell people they know the TQ is seated when the distance from the mounting ears to the tranny bell housing is LESS than the distance of the mounting holes in the flex plate to the engine bell housing. Since the tq is half full of fluid, yes, it'll slosh a bit. That's normal. If it turns freely and passes the above check, you should be fine.

There's a pump on the bottle right next to the pump for the fronts. It's easy to tell which is which, the front one has a hose that goes up to the hood, the back one the hose goes into the depths of the car... have someone push the rear wiper spray button while you listen to the pump.

They actually don't have steel cylinder linings.

So basically an un-metered air leak. If the PCV system is setup right it shouldn't suck oil.

My first car. 96 L 5speed. Got it with 87k miles, but it ended up having a lot of issues. Though, it was a good little car. The new owner seems pretty happy with it. While I still had the 96 I bought 89 GL as a project from bratman18. Already lifted with the pug wheels, d/r swap and ea81 swap. It needed some work though, rust repair, suspension work, and the front end camber and toe needed to be worked out. I cleaned up some stuff with the motor, got the distributor set right, wheel bearings and swapped rear disc brakes. It's been a fun project and I learned a lot from this car, never selling it, probably swapping everything to a new shell when it rusts out. Back in about febuary I'd had enough with the 96. I ended up driving the GL most of the winter because of stupid problems, so when I found this thing for $400 with a bad engine I jumped on the deal. 230k miles when I bought it, I swapped in a 2.2 in freezing cold weather and tuned up the auto transmission. I posted the 96 for sale and it sold a week later, I could probably have gotten more for it. But I was too excited to get the GT on the road and was sick of my beloved 96... Besides the engine I haven't done much to it, JDM lights, HIDs, some different wheels, etc. But nothing much. Pretty much boring, reliable DD-mobile.

It shouldn't have stopped working with the swap... when I swapped my motor nothing stopped working... quite the contrary, for the first time since I owned the car it worked properly..

How did you burp the system? Some tips. Keep the front of the car up, drive it up on blocks or something. Fill the engine first through the top radiator hose, then connect it and fill the radiator. Make sure the heat is turned all the way up! I usually start it up with the rad cap off and keep filling it as it drops, when the tstat opens it might drop a lot. Top it up. cap it up and fill the overflow to the full mark.

What kind of car?? This sounds similar to a thread a few days ago with a lifted legacy wagon, or something. He kept popping the axle out of the transmission. I don't know what your car is... but try putting it back in and see if it's fine.

The hvac unit on the 2nd gen legacy is not vacuum operated, there are a few plugs with a lot of wires. The only mechanical thing is the temperature, which operates a cable. The vent doors are controlled by servo motors, if you listen, you hear a whiiir noise when you change the setting.

There's nothing that should have touched that relates to climate control, electrically, it's a plug and play swap. Did you do it, or have some shop do it? They might have changed out the computer, or something silly like that. I'd check fuses first, easiest thing..

The most important thing is to not let it slip. When starting in 1st gear slip it as little as possible, get off the pedal as fast as you can. When you're shifting rev match so the clutch isn't doing the work of bringing the engine RPMs up and down, especially when downshifting. If you do a good job, the only time you'll slip the clutch is getting moving, if you're very careful it'll make it a week or two... And then be careful on hills and accelerating. I had a pretty badly slipping clutch in my legacy for a few weeks till I had a time to fix it, and being really careful, it made it.

If you use one of the kits where it doesn't require you drill, you won't get shavings from that. I used a kit that just has a tap with a meaty bite, and the insert. Taps have a lot of space to get grease into, they're not solid the whole way around like a bolt. If you pack the tap full of really heavy goopy grease I don't see how any shavings won't get trapped in it. If any shavings did manage in falling into the cylinder they'd be coated with grease and most likely wouldn't scratch. They'd get burned up and blown out the exhaust, if anything was left after combustion, that is.

I'm sorry! I didn't want to come across as hating your car. All custom projects deserve respect. If I hate something I just won't post. I was merely trying to ask why you'd gone this route over a different one, hence, showing my interest. I'll watch from afar, cheers.

I forgot about this one... make sure it's not flat. Last time I had to use mine, it was completely flat. I drove on it anyway and ruined it, rather ruin the spare than a nice rim. But it made me fell dumb I'd never checked that.

What's that little filter thing by the spare tire doing?? I don't know what you've plumbed there.. but it could be causing a lean condition

1. I would first suggest alternator failure, but you already replaced that. 2. The starter can fail, although in a couple of my 80 & 90's subarus, it gave advanced warning so I was never really stranded. At worst, it required a 15-20 tries to get it to engaged and sometimes an hour wait. [side note: the rebuilt alternators are probably as good as the original subaru's but the rebuilt starters are definitely not]. 3. Even a wheel bearing probably wouldn't strand you. I once rode 50 miles at 20 miles/hr with the subaru front bearing screaming. Even then I had advanced warning which I didn't understand/ignored. Even with a failed alternator you can still drive quite a ways as long as you keeps lights, etc off. The starters usually die because contacts, an $8 fix. If you're really worried about it, just replace them... Wheel bearings give warning for thousands of miles before they become un-drivable. And in the last 1000 miles they make a terrible noise. Then you can't drive over about 10mph... That was scary... I bought my 98 legacy at 230k miles, over 240 now without any real issues. Got it with a bad 2.5 DOHC... It drives really nice, I should get another 50k+ no problem.

Mostly marine electronics, that's what I'm headed down to do. I have a monthish long contract to do this guy's boat, then hopefully find more work with other people in the yard, etc.

Don't take offense... but just wondering. Why don't you pick up a crashed 2.0 wrx for $1500 or something and just swap the entire drivetrain over? You'll get a stronger AWD transmission, rear LSD, all the engine management which is already OS tunable. The engine has a lot more potential, the heads flow better, respond better to porting/polishing, more after market parts/support. Sure those motors are known for rod bearing issues, but you seem to know what you're doing with suby motors. They're not that expensive to rebuild if you do it all yourself.

I guess nobody needs AWD, if I lived there full time I'd probably drive a honda civic econobox too... Just hope my engine doesn't blow while I'm down there. I'll bring my box of spare bits and pieces that might be hard/expensive to find, but for the most part, my legacy shouldn't have any trouble.

Have the line on the belt and the line on the sprocket perfectly lined up. Even if the belt stretches or whatever, the line on the belt and sprocket will stay unless the timing jumps. The sprocket will move a little bit in relation to the timing mark on the belt covers though, so yes, the sprocket will turn a little when the belt takes up tension.

You can't put the starter in wrong. It only goes in one way, seat it all the way and bolt it up. There really isn't much to it.

Contacts are $8 at the dealer. I've seen two types, but I've interchanged them both ways, just lined it all up right and it's not a problem.

That's how I get nice cars cheap, nothing wrong with that. haha.

Sounds like your antenna wire is chafing somewhere and intermittently or party grounding out. I've never had it in a car, but I see it really commonly working on boats (where I get most of my wiring experience from) someone does a crappy job installing a sterio system