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That's how I got my car ... But said person might also fix it for you cheap just to make an extra buck on the side. Never hurts to ask around.

Looks like quite the project you have there! It would be cool to put a dual range transmission in this and use it for offroading! Since it's already a little rough around the edges you wouldn't have to feel bad about some more bangs The fuel leak is probably just the fuel filler neck, common problem. Not to hard to fix. Doubt it's the fuel tank.

This is not entirely true. Sure, it'll work without swapping the ECU, and you can swap auto and manual ECUs all day long. But there are slight tuning differences between AT and MT computers. A lot of it has to do with how it idles. I've had an auto computer in my manual car just to test it out, and it's wicked annoying in traffic. It doesn't idle down properly because it "thinks" it's an auto and if it just goes to idle like it should in a manual, the engine will stall. Also, at speed if you shift into neutral it will not idle below 1500 rpms or something. So not a priority on the list of swap parts, but something that should be done eventually.

It's hard not to rush the end of a project.

On the engine bell housing on the passenger side there is a black rubber plug. Pull this out, you'll see the flywheel (or flexplate if it's an auto). On this are timing marks and a little arrow cast into the bell housing to line up. The marks apply to cyl1, so you can line up the disty like that. Other option. I don't have the right flywheel/engine combo, so those marks are useless for me. You can put a pen or something down the plug hole, turn the engine and then it's pretty obvious when it's at tdc, the pen stops going up and starts going down. Just make sure you have the compression stroke TDC not exhaust. With an 88 you have SPFI, so with the green test connectors connected your timing should be 20 DBTDC.

You got to it early! Nice fix. I wanted to do something like that on mine, but the whole thing from top to the part where it goes into the tank was completely rusted out and paper thin..

Pull one of the outer timing covers and take a look. If the timing belt broke, all you need is a valve job. That's really not a big deal. Or swap a 2.2 in, another fairly easy way to bring the car back. Regardless, engine trouble doesn't mean the car is junk.

The clutch on my ea81 swapped 89GL is getting tired and I just want to make completely sure about the step. It's using all ea82 stuff, flywheel, disc, pressure plate, etc. Searching the forum I found 0.815" as a number for the flywheel step, is this correct? With this setup, I should be able to just use a standard sachs (or whatever other brand) clutch kit for a 4wd loyale, right? Oh, also. All pilot bearings are the same, right? I have a brand new one for an EJ flywheel.

Not just start calculating with a full tank, but use a full tank (ok, well don't run out...). Then run the numbers. If I fill up at the top of a mountain pass and drive downhill for 85 miles, then fill up again. My gas mileage would be amazing! But you'll get a better average over 20 gallons of gas than 4.

I hope this thread doesn't turn into a ************fest like the last one did. If I had the money, this isn't how I'd build a rig. Everyone has a different idea of what their dream rig is, my dream rig is different than his dream rig. Maybe his car isn't practical for something someone else's car is practical for, but it's better in some other regard. Not every car can have everything going for it at the same time. I like this build because it's unique and badass. Just because it isn't what I'd do, I still appreciate it for what it is. Live and let live guys.... The crap isn't very USMB-like.

Ya, but he pretty much completely rebuilt all of the driveline/suspension when he got it. So owners before that don't really count. Anyway, that break isn't so much an abuse failure as it is a rust failure. Sure, driving over some bumpy stuff helped it go, but it was rusted through and was going to break regardless. It's not like you twisted it in half or something.

An I've said before, this car is so badass. You've taken it to the extreme, and it's awesome!

^ I totally agree with the above! My legacy is just a car, my GL is almost like a person.

Well, the turbo engines actually do have a coil for each plug. But in the case of wasted spark system, yes, it can fire every rotation. But that's not the issue. In terms of that, you don't need a cam sensor. BUT, as others have stated, you still need the cam sensor for fuel injection. Since there is one injector per cylinder, unlike spark, the computer needs to know if TDC means intake or exhaust stroke. And this brings me back to the turbo motors with coil on plug. These technically shouldn't need a crank sensor, right? Since the fuel and ignition need to be exact, and nothing is wasted, it should all be able to be sensed off the cam. For RPM, just multiply that signal by two.

He's right, I condemned my clutch with this this test last week.

Thanks! HTI makes nice stuff, I bet he made those mounts himself for D-rings.

Thanks for the tip on that! My 5speed is getting a bit noisy, and the shifting tired. I'll give that stuff a try! Now to find it... heh.

Just a question about the ATF, that won't harm the diff any?

The important thing is to make sure you get a GL5 rated gear oil because that has additives for hypoid gears. ie. your front diff. I just got whatever was cheap at napa, I think it was a 75w-90. Too thick and it'll be like string cold oatmeal when you try to shift in the winter. Sometimes the guys behind the counter at part stores don't know everything... You'll get further if you tell them you want a manual transmission gear oil. Don't even mention the word fluid, as that pertains to autos.

I never said it isn't really easy, I said it is really easy. For the AC control ones. You just pull out the cup holder and its two screws, pull off the plastic trim. It just pulls off, take out the four screws holding in the AC controls. And on the back I think there are three bulbs. You can get them at the dealer. I suppose you could replace them with LEDs if you wanted, but that might not work very well just using the ones you can buy. The way those work in there need the 360 degree angle of light out of an incandescent. The bulbs seat down into a plastic thing that takes light off all sides to distribute it to the different buttons in there. I've done custom LEDs for that, but not the plug and play type. For the buttons behind the steering wheel (rear defrost, cruise, fog lights, etc). Just pull out the four screws holding in the trim around the gauge cluster, pull that plastic trim off. It holds the buttons, just take off the connectors and pop the buttons out. There are two bulbs per button, one to light up the picture, and one for the red light when it's on.

Really nice build! I wish mine could be done this well... I have two questions for you. Where did you get those big D-rings and brackets to weld to your bumper. And, where did you get those tires for a 14" rim?

What model and year of car do you have? I know on the 2nd gen legacy it's really easy...

Mine has abut 11 codes. But a lot of these cars throw codes for EGR and the evap system. That's probably what most of the codes relate to. And there are some fixes, if you care. Though, if you do have an O2 code, best to fix that because unlike most of the other codes, that can effect your gas mileage.

I like the electrical tape over the CHECK ENGINE light. Drove me nuts at night... electrical tape fix ftw.

Synthetic oil is generally better for an engine anyway. It thins less when the engine cools, so allows for an easier start, lasts longer, and doesn't thin with age. If synthetic oil makes your engine get worse, it's probably on it's way out anyway...