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I did rear drum brakes on a toyota truck once. They weren't too bad, really. Just a lot of little bits and pieces to keep straight.

I broke the bleeders off the rear wheel cylinders on my GL... said eff it to drum brakes and put discs on..

The 6speed uses r180 diffs and all the other subaru transmissions use a r160. So they're somewhat swappable. I'm sure with a bunch of machine work a sti front diff could swap in. They're just bigger.

Done what? EJ seats in a GL. Yes, and it isn't too bad. They do ride a bit high though. I'm going to probably end up having to cut down where the rails mount on the front to lower it, and re-weld.

The two pin one goes to the computer. And the one pin one goes to the gauge. That's why if the one to the computer fails you still get a good reading on the gauge. An OBD2 reader could easily show that the computer isn't getting the correct reading. I found out about that one spade one too (left it out). Found it out pretty quick when I started adding coolant...

Did you plug the green test connectors when you set the timing?

Check in the for sale forum. There are always car part outs going on. Someone most likely has those parts.

I have an ej22 with something around 300k. Burns a bunch of oil, but runs well. When it stops, as others have said. Not worth the rebuild. I have a 25D block I'll rebuild and keep the 2.2 heads for. 350k lifespan on a 2.2.. eh? Hmm... I'm prolly sailing close to the wind. Blackstone seemed to think so as well...

I have 205/75/14 on my GL with a 2" lift. That's about a 27" tire. I spent a while and got the camber and caster and stuff corrected out as not to chew up the tires. I don't know what the angles are because I just played with it till it was good. It's easy on axles, just slide the boots up the shaft towards the joint and it doesn't kill the boots. I don't usually DD the car, but I did drive it 45 minutes each way for about a month. It was fine. I have 2001 impreza seats in it, so it's comfy. Just last night, actually. I drove it an hour and a half on the highway to see some friends. It's a good every day car, but also pretty good offroad.

All STi 6-speed transmissions in the US have a front LSD. No, you can't swap it to a 5mt.

2.5 flywheel will work on a 2.2.

The higher insurance costs are cheaper

Wow, that's steep on insurance for the yota! Probably jacking the rates because it's a 4x4. I know where I live 4x4s have a much higher insurance because people think they're invincible when they push that button, go do stupid things, and crash

Well, part of it is that the US market wants autos over manuals... But autos are arguably better offroad. You have a torque converter to multiply the torque to give you a lower gear essentially than a manual, you can creep slower over stuff. Starting after you've stopped on a really steep slippery hill isn't so bad, etc. The only downside I can really see to an auto offroad is it's more complex and stuff like cooler lines to break, etc. Manuals can be pretty broken, but still work enough to get you off the trail, autos just stop working when they break. It's still a landcruiser though, and I've always thought they are awesome.

Didn't they discontinue the manual version in the US? I'd love one with a turbo diesel and a 5speed...

That's not how I would fix a hatch that doesn't open... but I guess it worked... In a way.

Just because a car is a little beat is no reason to trash it/ blow it up. But to each their own.

When does this bearing sound happen? Sitting at idle in park, does it change with the engine speed? Probably water pump or idler for the timing belt. Driving? does it do it turning one way more than the other? etc... need more info on this... Starter, replace contacts. $8 fix, starters rarely completely die.

94 ignition cyl should be the same as a 97. I put a 2nd gen leggy ignition in my GL... So they stayed the same for a while.

I've used brake line with double flare connections for power steering before. I don't know if you're supposed to do that... but it's still holding. You usually have to look for transmission cooler line to get it big enough, but my flare tool had a die for a line that size.

Just pretend it's a diesel

The biggest thing with cooling I've run into is after running through a lot of heavy snow getting snow jammed into the radiator. If you see the temp start to rise, clear it out. Or if you know you've slammed a snow bank, etc. Go clear the snow out of there before it's an issue.

100w bulbs aren't worth it. They don't actually draw 100w, and they don't put out nearly double what a 55w put out. Like you'd expect. (at least, the $10 ones don't...) Stay with 55/85w is probably fine. What more important than the bulb output is the reflector and lens. That's why cheap lights with the exact same bulb don't put out half as much as expensive lights. (And, as I've learned it seems bulbs follow this same rule) The hella 500 is a great light to price ratio, in my opinion. Even with the stock 55w bulbs in them, they're amazing difference as compared to the terrible horrible stock 2nd gen lights. Your other option is JDM headlights :D:D They have about the same output as a hella 500 with the 55w high beams. Pretty amazing difference from the stock lights.

Drilled right down through the bumper! The PO had three hella 500's. And since the 750 (or whatever that is...) is too wide I had to space it up... I have a better idea though. This is just proof of how awesome it'll be. The lights are very stable being mounted like that. And it's just a few holes. Haha, rust has made enough, why not drill some more

I don't like to screw around, 300w of light to see where I'm going