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You probably shouldn't run straight water because glycol is an anti-corrosive and necessary for modern cooling system.

Same deal as with the doughnut, don't drive it very long or very fast. And it will be fine. If you have an auto, put in the FWD fuse, then it's FWD and doesn't matter what tires you're running.

Same exact break happened to me. But I was 2 hours from home... THAT was a long ride home. Anyway, I just welded it back on. Did it without dropping the exhaust, but it's pretty difficult. There isn't much room to weld under there...

Throw it in the trash. Get a real one, or you'll be left stranded.

Cool! Kind of like old subarus that had the brakes on the transmission side rather than in the hubs.

I've been DDing my legacy auto for a while now. It's a treat to cruise around in my GL. Missing the stick. The auto is nice though... I can eat breakfast, drink a cup of tea, and drive in traffic with my knees with ease

Just get everything as lined up as you can. Sometimes it helps having a wrench on the crank so you can turn the engine a bit while trying to made it. Helps line the splines up. It can be a real pain on any car with a manual.

Didn't someone do a top mounted radiator with an H6 swap?

I had two of those strip on me in one day. Doing an ej22 swap. The ej22 had it's strip. I said no problem. Went to take the one off the ej25 and the threads came out with the bolt. I bet if you look at the bolt you took out, the aluminum threads are still in it. I wasted some time trying to get a nut on the back side, but finally took it to a local machine shop and had it heli-coiled to 3/8". Worked great.

Good job!

The bottom starter bolt is a stud into the transmission bell housing. Has nothing to do with bolting to the engine. The top starter bolt goes through engine and transmission, there's one on the other side. And the two bottom studs. Take off the pitch stopper, and that should be it. There are two steel pins that align the engine and transmission. And they get wicked stuck. Jam screwdrivers, prybars, etc, etc into the crack to get the engine loose. It can take some beating sometimes. Just work at it, it'll go eventually.

There is so much mis-information, and conflicting info on this topic... I have no idea what to believe. Can you bolt, say, phase1 2.2 heads to a phase2 2.2 block? There's something about pistons clearing deck, compression ratio change... Can someone please clear this up for me? Thanks.

I don't want to come across rude, but instead of hijacking my thread. Start one for your specific problem. You'll get more response that way.

Hmm, well, being tight at all is bad. When the engine is bolted to the transmission. You should be able to reach through the starter hole and spin the TQ. It should spin perfectly freely with no resistance at all. And coast to a stop. Not just stick.

I see nowhere it states the year of that car, but it has a phase2 engine. Meaning it's 99+ In 99 they added extra trans/engine mounting bolts. IIRC yours is a 97, so it just has the two bottom studs and the two bolts at the top.

Yes, but in a junk yard they're hard to tell apart from aftermarket ones that are also black. If you just go for the green ones you're pretty safe.

I'm curious as to how this happened in the first place... Did you bolt the engine and transmission together, then bolt the TQ to the flexplate? Because if you did that... It wasn't bound up. Which means it somehow bound after being all bolted together. Which is weird...

That appears to be the bottom driver's side nut. That one is a pain to access... I'm not completely sure what you're asking, maybe I'm reading wrong. But you're looking for a bolt head somewhere? The bottom two are studs that thread into the engine bell housing and go all the way through the transmission bell housing with a nut on the back side. There's no bolt so to speak because it just threads into the block. They're about 6" long studs. Sometimes the nut sticks and threads the stud out of the block. Don't worry if that happens. Pull the engine and deal with it when the engine is out of the way I just put a vicegrip on the middle of the stud and get the nut off. No big deal.

Unless something rips the boot, or you swap things around, I doubt you ever will have to deal with rear axles. They almost never fail.

Yes, you have to unbolt the header from the heads. No you don't have to drop the header completely. Just let it hang, it will be supported just fine with the mount that comes down from the transmission. If that mount is missing/broken off, use a cloths hanger or something to keep the exhaust system up. When pulling an engine, I've never done more than just unbolt it from the head.

As long as it's not full of crap. It's probably fine. Now that this thread has been bumped.... Anyone have any answers to the original question?

OEM axles have green cups on them. Thats the way I tell with used axles. Also a hint, if you get used axles from the junk yard it's almost always cheaper to dismantle them and put a pile of parts on the counter rather than the fully assembled axles... Last time I did that, I got them well under half the price of the whole assembled axles. That's true with a lot of junk yard stuff...

If you do that, hook it up to a button for when people are tailgating you

Buy a bag of zip ties. You should have a bag of zip ties that lives in your trunk anyway.... Then you can make anything stay in place

On my GL I found that sliding the boots up the shaft closer to the joints helps immensely in their longevity.