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On my 89 you lift the seat back up, and just fold it down. Mine is probably broken in some special way, like the rest of my car. But they do fold down..

A wider, lower profile tire MAY not (but probably does) have more contact area when the car is just sitting on lever ground not moving. But if the car is just sitting there not moving, why have tires at all. Wider tires DO have more contact area when cornering. The tires on the inside of the corner are getting much more weight, thus they will deform and have more contact area without rolling onto the sidewalls. The tires on the outside will have less weight on them, but since they're wider they'll have a larger contact patch with the ground adding to traction. It's really a moot point if they have more contact when the car isn't moving, because at that point the tires aren't doing anything anyway.

Yep, pipe wrench to get the inners off. You have to un-stake the lock washer. Looking at it, it's a little confusing. But when you have the new part in your hand it makes more sense. Just measure to get the same length of the tierod, and you won't need a new alignment. I've done tie rods on a few different cars, and kept the alignment spot on afterwards.

Cranked water past the rings. A lot more cranking, some sputtering, a couple stalls later. It came back to life. Changed the oil, and all is fine!

hydrolocked the engine...

I've certainly stuffed my car. I had the PS/ALT belt floating like you described, lost ps and my bat light came on... That would suck on an interference motor... Me get timing covers before winter.

Not saying to do the clutch now. I'm just saying not to only replace the disc. As long as the diff doesn't make any bad noises I probably wouldn't worry about it...

Just a comment on the clutch... Doing just the clutch disc and nothing else, is, quite frankly a stupid waste of money. The reason a lot of clutches start slipping is because the pressure plate gets weak. Also, it would be dumb not to have the flywheel resurfaced if you don't want to pull the engine again. While you're doing clutch stuff, may as well put in a new pilot bearing and throw out bearing, because they're not that expensive.

All n/a clutches should be the same, in that regard. I'll count/measure tomorrow when I go out to my garage where I have all such parts sitting on shelves.

Hadn't thought about deep snow... After hearing this I should get covers for my INTERFERENCE***ej....

Add GT, and GT Limited to the end of that list. Although, I'm not really sure what the Limited means (besides making registration cost more)... I have one, and some GTs have more options than my Limited.

The leagcy is sort of like a loayle on steroids. The first gen leagcy looked very similar, just has a bigger engine and full time AWD transmission.

You could do hybrid axles. Use a newer axle and the older style inner joint.

Yep, tumbler has gone bad. Mine eventually got stuck in RUN and I couldn't turn the engine off...

As I said, it's really not terribly hard. Go for it..

The tranny, diff, and driveshaft will work. Not sure about the crossmember and the pedals, I think they have to come from a 2nd gen. Which isn't that big a deal, tons of them in junk yards. The interior stuff definitely needs to come from a car like yours. I think it's a very worth while swap. If you have a car that's in good shape, especially in a place where cars rust out, why not keep it alive? I have almost all the parts to swap my legacy to a 5speed when the auto craps. I have a car with no rust, good engine, and everything in nice working condition, why junk it and buy something that potentially has a lot of silly issues? It's almost always cheaper to fix what you have. Otherwise you'll get a new car with all the same issues all over again. BLEH! You're going to need, - Tranny - Tranny crossmember - Shift linkage - Driveshaft - Diff from whatever, but be warned, you might end up needing rear axles to match the diff Or a diff that matches your rear axles. I have two different diffs, and an axle that doesn't fit either... And I***know that older stuff has yet another type of inner rear axle. - Cable clutch pedal box, so from a 95 or 96 legacy. - Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing. - The longer bolts that go with the flywheel, yes, it's OK to re-use those. - Interior bits from a car like yours. - The older transmission is going to have a cable speedo, your car has a digital one. So you'll have to swap the VSS***from your transmission. - Your 95, if L model, has 4.11 gear ratio. So, if the transmission you get is a 4.11 (a lot of early legacys are) you won't even have to swap the rear diff. And it won't mess up your speedometer reading. Other than that, just some basic re-wiring. Connect up reverse lights, NSS, and connect two other wires together. It's not a gigantic re-wire like some people think. There's a thread somewhere detailing the wiring.... That's about all I can think at the moment. I've put a bunch of research, thought, and gathering parts into this. If you have a good car, do it. If your car is a rust bucket. Dump it.

I used wheel bearing grease, because that was the last thing I'd done. I had it sitting around... Passenger side window in my GL***went from not wanting to go all the way up to doing so very happily.

They swap ej25 to ej22.... I know that for a fact. My ej22 I swapped into my GT was missing that censor (which I found out while adding coolant........)

Hmm, interesting. I've never had a problem on subarus getting the pads to slide freely. I always take the slides off, clean the bracket itself until it's shiny, clean the slides up very well, and put grease on everything. Yes, that means between the slides and the bracket too. Never had an issue with them not sliding. If for some reason they don't your slides are bent or something. I had that once, straightened them out, and they were fine. You should never have to grind the pads. I have had to pull the shims off on some brands to make them work though.

While it is correct that those cars had the 4.11 ratio, they also had the same gearset as the 3.9 transmissions. With the exception of the outback, which has a shorter 5th gear.

When I got my 98 I had a similar thing. The slides are fine, the caliper isn't frozen. But the pads were so tightly stuck in the slides I had to pound them out with a BFH, completely destroying the slides. I had to get the slide kit from NAPA with is stupid expensive for little pieces of bent metal Just be sure to use a good synthetic brake grease where the pads slide, where the piston contacts the pad, and where the other side of the bracket contacts the outer pad. I usually pull my brakes apart once a year after winter and re-grease them. Living in Maine I get terrible salt, it freezes everything up something wicked.

Sounds like it's time to get some air suspension so you can lower the car for her to get in

There is a video in his thread! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1030454#post1030454

The 97 outback transmission has the annoyingly short 5th gear. I wouldn't want that...

I put my GL back together today, added some parts like a plate light, speedo, non-rusty fenders... etc. Some other crap that'll hopefully get it past inspection. I need to get out and do some more wheeling NICE!!