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Found out there are at least three different types of male rear axles... Grumble grumble

So I've always been under the incorrect impression that all male subaru rear axles are the same. That leaves me with some questions. I'm doing a MT swap in my legacy, and before I rip stuff apart I want to make sure everything fits. And this is what I've come up against... I currently have two different 4.11 diffs, and a set of spare rear axles (from a 99 obw, but should be the same as my 98 GT) One diff is from a 2002 RS 5mt, the other one, I have no idea. It has fins on the back cover, and the drain bolt's have a 17mm head instead of the 1/2" drive. But I know it's a 4.11 because I counted teeth. Here's the problem. Diff #1: When I put the axle into the RS diff it goes all the way in and clicks into place. But when I spin the axle it doesn't turn the gears, it sounds like the splines are stripped out. It just makes a slight grinding noise, and that's it. Just like they're barely touching, but don't match up. I know nothing is wrong with the axles or that diff. Diff #2: This is the diff I don't know anything about. I got a transmission and this diff for $150 and was told it was all good... anyway. The axle doesn't even go all the way in. The part of the shaft with the diagonal groves (see pic) comes up short against the bearing. When I look from the inside (cover off) I can clearly see that the shaft is blatantly too big to fit. (that's what she said ) So from this I can assume there are at least three different types of axles/diffs Can someone who knows about what's going on here enlighten me on what to look for so I can get a matching diff/axle setup. And just in general because I had no idea there were so many differences! Thanks

And not to say there's a convenient time for that to happen... but it happened to me 4 hours from home. Which just added insult to injury. After that experience I learned about this thing called preventative maintenance. It's a good thing to participate in!

I had a water pump seize up at 92k and shred the timing belt. Fortunately it was a non-interference engine. But yours is not. Water pump is a lot cheaper than being towed, then paying for a valve job and all the associated gaskets, etc.

I fixed the CEL, it was a broken vac line at the charcoal canister. And the ABS light is because the fuse for the windshield wipers blew while driving in the rain. And that was the least important fuse to steal.

Dood!!! Nice deal. There are a million jeeps out there for cheap, brats with a good body, especially in this area are impossible to find! If you don't get it I'm driving down to NH this weekend

It mounts to the tranny bell housing. There should be two threaded holes just to the driver's side of the pitch stopper mount.

I had the same thing happen to me on my last car. I never touched the screw, but randomly one day after I owned it for over a year it just started sticking exactly like your described. Very fine adjustment of the screw fixed it, so it wasn't necessarily messed with. It just happened to me.

I put LEDs in mine too, sorry no night time shot...

Fixed my stupid AC tensioner...

Whatever you did seemed to fix it. I have the option to PM you now.

That's weird, I don't have the option of sending you a PM either. Do you have it enabled in your account? It was sure worth selling it for my $400 LGT....

There's a ball with a spring. The ball bearing is forced up over a little hill into a valley when you turn it right or left. In the center the ball bearing is in a bigger valley. Over time the hills between the top valleys sort of erode. And the reason it falls into left is because gravity is already pulling the stick downwards, so since it's going down anyway having just come from turning right it keeps on going... I hope that sort of makes sense.

If you have a stock engine and stock radiator, the stock fans work perfectly fine.

I've had the nuts stick to the studs and pull them out of the motor, on both sides. And from that experience, i can say you will not be able to put them in without pulling the engine away from the transmission. They came short up against the axle cups. So I suppose that gives you the decision, pull the axles or pull the engine.

i don't have the option to PM you either. you probably need 10 posts.

Does look much better toward the center. looks good!

Is your speedometer working properly? Any codes like p0500? I was having a VSS issue that was causing my car to stall when I pushed in the clutch.

As long as the boots haven't been torn for years the inner tie rod ends are pretty easy. It's the outer ends that piss me off... I can never get the lock nuts off.

Usually somewhere between 140 - 170 for those motors. But what's most important is for the readings to be within 10% for all cyls.

The WD part of WD40 stands for water displacement. Pretty much all it's useful for is when your disty gets wet... That's all I use it for. Compression check is really easy. Screw compression tool into plug hole, hold throttle wot, crank engine. Look at gauge. Repeat for other cyls.

The computer is under the steering column just behind the kick panel. Unless you really dunked your car under water to the point of swamping it. The computer didn't get wet.

That's precisely what would happen if you had low compression.

I've never done an ea timing belt. I have an ea81 But I have done DOHC ej timing belts. So that makes up for it.