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Umm, that's not as easy as you think. I'm sure others who have done a bunch of them will chime in. To be honest, the 4.44 is nice. It makes the car a bit quicker.

To get a 4.44 rear diff look in outback, legacy GT, and foresters.

Do you have a check engine light on? When it shuts off and comes back on, do all the lights on the dash come on? Like they do when you first turn on the car? You've changed a lot of stuff, while you're in there clean up the battery connections, alt connection, and grounds. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of bizarre things to happen.

It looks like cyl 1 in an ej22 to me. That red would be the frame rail.

I had an issue with my car where it wasn't the ignition (replaced with know good) switch or the starter... I replaced the contacts, cleaned the plunger. Actually took apart the whole entire starter and greased it all up. (very easy and makes a huge difference, btw). But STILL sometimes just got a click. I cleaned every wire, ground, everything... CLICK. It ended up being a weak connection to the solenoid, for whatever reason. Tired wiring? Anyway, putting a really to give it battery power fixed it for good. To get the bolts out I drill two holes in them, and use a spanner bit. Couldn't be easier.

NICE! When you break stuff, use it as an excuse to make it better :grin: You sir, have redeemed yourself. haha.

I've found the computer does sort of need to re-adjust. But it usually idles high, not low.

Yes, the rotor is the thing that turns. Only reason I ask is because it's happened to a bunch of people where the screw comes out

Just having clean things in the cap (whatever they're called) doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. There's the rotor, the graphite thing with the spring that goes between the cap and the rotor, and the cap can be cracked!! I don't know how it happens, but mine was cracked when I got the car and that caused it to run crappy, esp when damp. On the topic of rotor. Make sure the screw hasn't fallen out of the rotor, that will make it run crappy or not at all.

IAC probably won't cause it to idle rough, low maybe. But you can unplug the damn thing and the engine still runs just fine. Needs a little throttle input until it's warmed up, but it doesn't idle rough. Especially not running. Not having enough power to move sounds like either timing is REEEEEEALLLY off, or two plug wires are swpped. I did that once, the car would barely move. I spent half an hour playing with the distributor and messing with everything until I saw what I'd done...

I have advise for no ignition. But eff it. Read or have someone else tell you. I'm done here.

If you've been driving your car around this long with water in the crank case. You've ruined it. No idea why you're hell bent on ATF in your oil. Just change it... When you change your plugs, get NGK ones. Good idea to put new wires, cap, and rotor at the same time. A full ignition tune up. Use subaru or NGK wires. Make sure you take mental note, make a diagram, whatever it takes to get the wires back on the right place on the cap. When you turn the key do you hear a click from the engine bay? Noting? Do you hear the fuel pump come on? What exactly is going on here?

^ ok.... So read up on how to properly take care of it so it lasts you a long time. If you let it sit and idle with the AC on a hot day long enough the fan will come on

The fan comes on when the radiator gets up to some preset temperature. Probably somewhere between 190 and 205 deg. I don't want to come across harsh here, but I advise reading about some basic car maintenance, how the systems work, etc. All of this is covered on here, other websites. Just google around. Everything you're looking for is out there. And in the process of searching you'll find something you weren't looking for, read it, and gain more knowledge.

That's a funny icon!! But yes, smack with a folding chair and move on. The best way to learn is to do something dumb, that's the only way to beat something into my brain Fix 'er up and you'll be all good.

The charcoal canister is supposed to have three hoses connected at the top, and an open one at the bottom. Even if you disconnected all the hoses, it wouldn't really be a problem.

If you can't get an 02 socket in there, a crowfoot wrench works well too.

Sometimes selling it and getting another one is best... like with my 96 legacy. That was a great car, but holy god, the most random things broke all the time. Stuff that never fails. The poor new owner is still having issues with it. Full of gremlins. Usually though, that's not the case.

I believe it's theimportexperts or something that sells the good timing kits on ebay.

ATF has crazy detergents... The bucket I've done a million oil changes in had a lot of nasty sludge in the bottom of it. After servicing my transmission I had ATF sitting in the bucket for a little bit before I put it in bottles. In that short time it ate all the gunk off the bucket and left it perfectly clean. I was pretty amazed!

I'd do a trans swap first. Part of doing a lift is putting on bigger wheels/tires. Lift with stock wheels would look ridiculous... But lifted with bigger wheels would be useless with a single range transmission.

Damn, this really sucks I can just think how upset I'd be if it as my LGT, and I know how you feel.

do you have a build thread for this?

So if you do all that yourself, you'll have a solid car. If you get another one, chances are you'll need a timing belt soon, brakes, clutch, etc, etc. unknown issue you don't know about, etc.

Umm, just an oil change. Pull the drain plug, oil filter. Put new filter on, put plug back on. It's something like 4.5qt of oil. I don't remember the exact number out of the manual... 4.5 is close enough