987687
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Posts posted by 987687
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Gasoline has a very low dielectric constant, around 2.0. A vacuum is 1.0, and water is around 80, at room temperature. Therefor gasoline conducts so little electricity as to be irrelevant. Fuel pumps are actually cooled by drawing gasoline through the motor, past the commutator, windings, and out the top. So yes, there are open electrical connections in a gas tank, along with the level sending unit etc.
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You can do it yourself, not pressed in. Make sure you're really careful removing the balljoint pinch bolt, if you apply excessive force it'll break. Use penetrant oil, actually effective here because you can access the back of the threads, heat, time. It'll come out without breaking. If you're in WA it probably isn't a rusted ball of mess, so it shouldn't be too bad.
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I've done it a many times, there are a few gotchas.
If your door open switch doesn't work, it won't go into programming mode.
If your car doesn't ding when the key is in the ignition and the door is open, either the key-in-ignition switch is broken or the door switch is broken.
I don't cycle the key unreasonably fast, but brisk. Make sure you're going all the way to the run position without overshooting to start. If you turn the key to start really quickly, but it does contact, it won't go into programming mode.
Also make sure the fob battery isn't dead, it should have a little red LED that comes on when you press either button.
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It's easy, follow the directions here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine
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2004 STI is the ONLY USDM year they were 5x100. starting in 2005 they went to 5x114.5 ( common Ford 5 lug actually 5x4.5 ).. Japanese and other markets had STI's with gold rims before USDM so gold BBS wheels that fit may still be obtainable thru the right channels, but pricey.
I'll second this answer, 2004 STi rims only if you're going that route. And they're EXPENSIVE, if you can find them.
You can put WRX parts on your car, brakes, rims, suspension, all bolts right in. Don't buy STi stuff, for the most part it isn't going to fit.
You want to rebuild your engine? That's a drastic measure for an engine not running well. What's the problem?
A good place to start is by changing the spark plugs, buy the cheap NGK copper plugs, they work best in subarus. Make sure to set the gap correctly, also use NGK or OEM plug wires for best results.
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So, it sounds like if I use my 98 intake with egr, pull the egr plug out of the 2.2 head, then swap various sensors to match the 98 intake wiring. For the most part, I should be fine.
There is no EGR plug in the 2.2 head... You can drill a hole, if you wanted. The other option is to use my EGR mod, which is to run the EGR line to the intake post-MAF. Someone did a really nice writeup on it in the USRM.
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The cam/crank sensors are a different type. I think one is variable reluctance and the other is hall effect, either way, they're not compatible and must be changed.
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Asside from that intake manifold you need to use the newer style crank and cam sensors. They're the same part for both. You can use them off the forester engine if you manage in getting them out without breaking them. You might also have to use the original knock sensor, I can't remember if they changed the plug. I think you'll also need to use the forester coolant temp sensor in the 2.2, just swap it between the engines.
It's a fairly simple swap.
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You parked it for 6 months with the parking brake on? It's probably seized up. You're gonna have to just go for it, give it a bit of gas and pretend you're doing a really steep hill start or something. You'll hear a good BANG and the sound of rusty brakes for a few miles.
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Yea... Maine goes by MSRP, which is even worse, especially when you own a 35 year old car with an MSRP of like $38k. They can rip you off like there's no tomorrow.
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You can sorta take that tack, but you must realize that an 87, 88, or 89 is a comparable car to the point the value of 86 specifically doesn't really matter.
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It's not bad for collectible classics, but some cars are just ridiculous. It values my 84 mercedes wagon at like $12k.... No way in hell, they made literally millions of those cars and there are tons on the road.
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NADA tends to be rather high on older cars. There are so many of these cars out there, no way it's worth that.
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95 doesn't have a speedo cable, it's the two-wire hall effect sensor. My 96 legacy did that for for a few months, then randomly went back to normal...
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I was in a pinch to replace the clutch on my GL (on a roadtrip...) I just sanded the FW with some heavy sandpaper and called it good. There were no hot spots or cracks or anything and it worked fine... I wouldn't recommend it, though.
If the thought of taking your engine out next weekend to put a new flywheel in it makes you think about things such as: lighting it on fire and collecting insurance, or driving it off a cliff, probably a good idea to replace the flywheel.
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With the car warmed up set the parking brake and put the car in 5th gear. Rev the engine while letting the clutch out, if the engine stalls out immediately when the clutch grabs, it's in good shape. If the engine slowly drops in speed, or you can even keep the engine running with the clutch released, the clutch is bad and should be replaced.
I've seen this test done poorly a number of times, you need to use a good bit of throttle or the engine will obviously just stall immediately no matter what gear you chose. You can release the clutch in first and it'll stall, too. It's not a test unless you actively try to keep it from stalling while releasing the clutch.
Obviously this test can be harmful to the clutch and you should only do it once... If the clutch is in good shape it doesn't really do any damage, if the clutch is worn out you'll be putting a lot of extra wear on it. Be sure you're in a position to order the parts and replace the clutch.
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You're right, Gabriels and Monreos are garbage, however the KYB GR2 is actually a very decent strut. I have at least a dozen rallyXs and driving like a maniac on bumpy old logging roads on a set of them, and they're doing fine.
If you have excessive negative camber in the rear that's wearing your tires, it probably isn't the struts, it's likely the upper arm bushings. Not sure what you call them, the link between the top of the knuckle and the subframe. My outback (same rear suspension as he baja) had very worn bushings in that arm causing horrible tire wear. I junked the car instead of fixing that, along with everything else, but it's likely your problem.
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Since you have a DOHC forester, it's a 98 and therefor easy to just do a 2.2 swap. You'll lose a bit of power, but you'll never have to deal with blown headgaskets or rod knock again.
I did a 2.2 swap on my 2002 forester and it was great.
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The single colour bajas look nice, I can't stand the silver two tone ones... Also those rims look really awesome with the blue. It sounds like you're mechanically inclined, just do the headgaskets yourself. It's a fairly easy job.
Also, you have one of the best motorcycles, although my dream bike is still an old R60...
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The belt doesn't have enough slack to hit the cover. If something was that loose it would jump timing and bend valves. You may be hearing a loose tensioner jumping around a little bit or something else, but the belt isn't hitting the cover unless maybe you forgot the bottom idler on the passenger side.... And even then, yikes.
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You're installing a new style tensioner? Compress it in the installed position (up and down), put an allen key or something in the lock holes. If it's leaking fluid out of the piston it's bad. Install the tensioner, timing belt, etc. When you're ready just pull the pin and give it a few minutes to take up slack. That's all that's to it... If the tensioner doesn't take up the slack, yea, it's bad.
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Put all the marks straight up and count the teeth between the crank mark and the cam marks.
Should be 44 teeth on the passenger side and 47 on the driver side. The engine will have a stumble if the timing is off, I bought an outback that didn't run well really cheap because some idiot put the timing belt back on wrong...
The timing cover bolts sometimes really suck to get out in one piece. They rust and seize up causing one or more of four things to happen: They stick in the plastic cover and break it when you try to take them out. The heads round off. They break off in the block (because the back of the threads are exposed and lets them rust...). Or on the end caps they stick in the threaded insert in the back cover and rip them out, breaking the timing cover.
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I'm sorta confused as to what you're doing, but to answer your question: With the crank at the alignment mark (the dash NOT THE ARROW), the cylinders are all in the middle of their stroke and thus it is impossible to crash the valves into them. Spin the cams to your heart's content.
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Yep, just ignore the 4 unused bellhousing bolt holes in the 99 engine. You can take the studs out of the top and use bolts if you wish, or use the studs and nuts, it doesn't matter.
It's actually not uncommon, it seems to be a 99+ manual transmission thing to use studs at the top of the engine.
I prefer studs because you don't have to worry about stripping out the aluminum threads by getting the bolts misaligned, they should all be studs, tbh.
Fuel pump wires are both in the gas?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Pretty sure my GL fuel pump had fuel flowing past the brushes when I took it apart.