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FINALLY procured the rest of the parts I need to put my GL back together. It's been broken since the first weekend in April, I'm really missing that car!! Tomorrow I'll bust rump roast and get it back together, and make it inspectable... Making a car safe, and making a car inspectable are two totally different endeavors. It's gonna be nice and safe, but it needs things like plate light, horn, no more hole in trunk, fix leaky exhaust... who knows.

front http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491 rear http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226

You can buy a kit, but they're rather expensive if you're just going to use it once. Take it to any local garage and they should be able to perform the test, it's pretty simple.

That engine usually has an external leak. Ends up overflowing the overflow and emptying the radiator. If you have bubbles it sounds like an internal leak, which is unusual on those engines. But if the HG was just done and it's blown again... It wasn't done right. Not a subaru gasket, put on wrong, something. More details about previous HG job?

My 96 was cable and 3.9 ratio. That was in a Legacy L

You have a hydro clutch setup. 4.11 FD ratio. gears 1-4 are the same as every other 5speed in that era, except the OB has a shorter 5th gear.

Read up on it... they don't exactly just pop in.

I changed the driveshaft because I traded one with bratman for a computer. Or something... but I was ready to replace them. You have a single piece, so you only need two joints.

Probably the driveshaft. When it's in 2wd the driveshaft is freewheeling, when you pop it in 4wd it's being driven. So it's putting different force on the joints. It will stop the clunking. When mine went, that was the exact symptoms I had.

I don't know when they switch from stubs in the diff to stubs in the axles. I thought it was around 96, or so. The 97 diff will stubs in the axles, make sure it's going to work wit the axles in your car. Also, doesn't the legacy L auto already have 4.11 diffs? Check, there's a chance it does. Then you don't even have to deal with swapping the diff.

The EZ will fit in a legacy without cutting the rad support up. It's the EG33 that requires some sawzal love.

I'm pretty sure there was an EZ30 in a lifted brat with top mounted radiator.

I used clay bar on my legacy, it worked amazing!

Without knowing anything about how to replace a bearing, I dove into it headfirst. The first side was difficult, the second side was pretty easy afterwards. I took some pics and posted them here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226

Why? Just look at the flashing light to get the codes.

Got a new rear tube frame for my GL. So hopefully I can start work on getting that all put back together soon! I really miss that car. I can't wait for it to be back on the road.

The 5speed in those sucks anyway. The auto is probably stronger. Swap it!

Dropped the rear subframe, diff, etc

I live in such a state. It's nice! I was just cautioning him about the OBD2 thing. Although, it's fairly easy to wire for a 2.0 WRX ECU. Then you can tune it, and pass OBD2 with it.

What offset am I looking for? That's what I'm most curious about. I guess I didn't word right

All the turbo swap stuff has been done, well documented, etc. The real issues is that the 91 is an OBD1 car, and yours is OBD2. If you live in a place with emission testing you'll never pass.

I have 14" pugs right now, but I'm looking for some 15" wheels to run gravel tires What I'm wondering is what are the best rims to look for? What vehicles, what years? I know there's information scattered all over the place, but no one thread has any really specific info... Thanks.

My FI ea81 is pretty gutless... Speaking of frankenmotors, I'm going to be making one with delta cams for my legacy.

Sorry.... I just provided information you were looking for

With a 4.111 FD and 5th gear ratio of 0.871, and assuming you have a stock tire size of 205/75/15. At 60 you should be turning 2745 RPM At 70 it would be 3202