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Run 5 or 10w40 then. I run thinner in winter. But the 40 part is the part that's important. You want a thicker oil at temp.

Next oil change use 15w40. Works great in my unknown mileage ej22 and my ea81.

Blown head gaskets on subarus don't usually cause low compression, or the engine to run bad. With the engine warmed up, look in the overflow tank. If you see bubbles coming out, the HG is blown. Happened to me, put in a 2.2 I got, must have been overheated. When I took it apart the gasket around the waterjacket was all blown out from too much heat/pressure.

This. I went back to napa 4 times with the wrong doughnut gaskets. Either didn't fit or leaked. Finally made the drive to the dealer and the gasket was perfect.

Car? Year? Engine? Mileage???? I'm assuming it might be a 90 - 96 ej22 because those have HLAs?? I use 15w40 in mine. It has solid lifters, but the heavier oil shuts the other weird noises up.

I lost my alt once and it didn't cause any running issues, that is, until the battery finally died 2 miles from home. The car just died, no sputtering, misfiring. Just went from driving along to nada.

They're separate. What I'm saying is that without an oil pump it's difficult to fill the rear diff. But if you get the bottles of gear oil with the nozzle thing at the top you can get about 1/3 of the bottle into the rear diff without too much trouble. The diff only holds about 1qt. So if you use 1/3 of three bottles in the diff it's full. Then you have 3 bottles 2/3 full, dump those in the tranny. If you fill the tranny first and leave just one bottle to fill the rear diff you have to get creative

Why is the first response everyone has to misfire a fuel pump?! Read what he said, 3/4 misfire. It's probably the coil.

Before you put it back together clean it all up with brake clean. You don't want crap in there. Then put the rotor ALL THE WAY ON. that's important. If it's not all the way on it won't adjust right. Best bet is just to put the wheel on. Then make sure the parking brake isn't applied, and loosen the parking brake cable all the way (from inside the car) so it's slack. Not pulling the shoes at all. This is important step. The tighten the adjuster till it locks up the wheel, and back it off a few turns till it's barely not dragging. Then adjust the parking brake cable till it's snug, but not applying the brakes at all. Pretty much all just drum brake common sense stuff. I can't comment on how similar it is to subaru drum brakes... Never dealt with EJ drum brakes. And my only experience with EA drum brakes is beating the crap out of mine, then replacing it with discs.

I've had a few bottom springs be so rusty they broke coming off. The hat things all rust to dead, and their springs don't do well. The tensioner also tend to seize up... Most hardware kits don't give you those though. Make suer to use caliper grease on all the shoe contact points with the backing plate, pivot at the top. Also make sure you put anti-sieze on the tensioner threads and parts to keep it working.

that, is a really good Idea I hadn't thought of!! I think I could even keep all four bolts. It doesn't have to be cut exactly in half. I think I'm going to give that a try.

General rule doing any drum brake. Get all the hardware. The bottom spring in particular gets really badly rusty.

When I got the car they didn't work at all. Took it all apart and found the shoes almost worn to nothing. I guess the idiot PO drove with the parking brake on... He left a bolt out of one of the rear calipers, installed a brake pad backwards.... etc.

If it was my car I wouldn't give a rat's rump roast. But it's my sister's car, so it needs to be fixed. It needs a new strut on that side anyway, and the tie rod end is starting to have play (I told her I wouldn't pit a sticker on it. haha) So the knuckle has to pretty much come off anyway.... I guess I'll just eat the cost and get another one. I can always throw that on my car someday if I need.

I need to replace parking brake shoes on my car. I'll do a writeup with pics when I do. I've done a few at work and they're really easy. Just need to keep track of all the springs and crap.

Either the connector is bad or the switch died. I've actually seen a few posts on here about the fan switch going out. I wouldn't pull the resistor pack out unless I knew it was bad (easy to test with multi-meter). They're really easy to break.

Even if the resistor is bad you should still get the fan on highest speed. The resistor pack is on the bottom of the heater box by the fan. but you can remove it with just two screws. Testing the fan is easy, unplug it and give it power.

I have almost 233k on mine.

I put anti-sieze in there, etc. I know how to do a brake job right. I wasn't the last person to do it. I didn't break the hub or anything. The rotor broke is half. There's the rotor part, and the part that goes over the hub. They separated. The tone ring is beyond any repair. The tone ring is bolted on the back of the hub, it has to come off to replace it. Just wondering the best way to do it.

I pull with my GL. Keep it under 1000 lbs though, it gets scary over that. Not only you have no power, the problem is the car is so light. Stopping isn't even such an issue with disc brakes, just with the short wheelbase and light car it gets pushed around bad.

Do you have brake fluid in the reservoir? Replacing an axle doesn't even necessitate touching the brakes. Pretty pathetic they managed in messing it up :-\ And not marking the bolts? Pathetic. Any good mechanic knows how camber is adjusted.

EJ25D fits in the trunk. Hauls boats on the roof Hauls boats Even though this is old gen, it's still my old subaru. takes 4 people camping for a week And boats go on the roof with a custom roof rack too:) but I can't find that pic

Yep. You need the switch for the hazards plugged in or you won't get any blinkers at all. This is true for most every car out there. The wiring goes from the relay, to the hazard switch, to the blinker stock. Your fan speeds not working is probably the resistor pack.

Just be glad you don't have a 99... they added a valve at the top and those are almost double in price...

^ They're right. I just did one a few weeks ago on my GT (Damn, there's no room to work...). The screws at the top may or may not come out... May as well get new ones from the hardware store when you have to drill them out. You open the gas door, take off the gas cap. Take out the 3 screws in there around the filler. Remove the metal ring. Go into the wheel well. Take off the plastic shield over the filler. Throw it away. Take off the rest of the bolts holding the filler, I don't remember how many, it's pretty obvious. They're hanging out holding the filler on. Remove the evap lines near the top. I found I could slide the hose all the way onto the metal line on the filler to get it out of the way (make sense when you're looking at it). Last, go under the car where the filler goes to the rubber hose to the tank. Remove the hose clamp, work the filler out of the hose. Resist the temptation to heat the hose up to un-stick it When everything is disconnected wiggle the filler out. Put it all back together in reverse order, not too hard, really. Wait till your tank is pretty empty, well below 1/4. Remember that you're working with an open gas tank that's mostly empty and filled with fumes. One spark, static zap, etc will ruin your day.