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As I said my local dealer sucks, the two times I had mine done I did it at a dealer over an hour away. They're great, I just emailed detailed pictures of the damage and they approved me for repair.

Mine doesn't retract very well, and I'm not sure if that's covered. I called my local dealer, but they're dicks.... I'll have to take it to the good dealer about an hour and a half away.

96+ has lifetime seatbelt warranty. I've used it on a few cars.

The pads we get at work never come with shims. You don't need them.

The tool to pull the plug boots is amazing... I use the one at work all the time.

So I take it your brakes are good again? Good job!

They're easy on a 2.2, but lesson learned.

About 2000 miles after I put in those plugs it started running like crap. They all looked like that.

Hmm, after I do the 5speed swap into my legacy I'll have a 4.44 rear and front out of the auto...

oh no! cat is trying to get into mine

This is what happened when I (ignorantly) used Bosch platinum plugs

When I do plugs in the DOHC I take my whole saw and just cut a hole through the tire, through the fender, through the frame, right to the engine head. Then just use a really long extension. Makes the plugs a breeze! Just be sure to avoid the AC lines.

Ew, that's nasty!! It'll be easy to flush that! Nasty coloured fluid will come out, then all of a sudde it'll come out nice and clear. Then you'll know you have clean fluid. Hill holder will just make it take longer to bleed... I'm so glad I don't have that stupid system on my car. Parking brake is mechanical, so nothing to bleed there.

Went out to my poor GL to find something in the trunk. I miss it. Hopefully I can get it back on the road soon.

Sorry for all the RR LR stuff, it's tire change season so I've been writing that on snow tires day after day. haha.

This has the DOHC, right? You need a couple short extensions, u-joint helps a bit.

The trick with bleeding brakes is to not get air back in the system. That means never lifting up on the brake pedal with a bleeder open. Push down the pedal, open the bleeder. Fluid comes out. Immediately close the bleeder. Lift up on pedal. Repeat. If the pedal is lifted up with the bleeder open it just sucked air in, you went backwards. The order of bleeding is RR, LF, LR, RF.

Yes, it's fine to scuff up the pads with sand paper. Use 150-200 grit and clean them with brake cleaner afterwards. As Deener said, have someone help bleeding the brakes. It'll take forever using something to prop the pedal. I usually have my mom/GF/sister/random person on the street push the pedal for me.

If you're rebuilding one side, why not do both? Unless the other side is in really good condition. I use synthetic brake grease, pretty cheap. Get a 1qt bottle of fluid, it's cheaper than getting pint bottles. You found that brake cleaner eats paint, so does brake fluid, keep it off your paint. If you leave the line disconnected you can let the old brake fluid drip out if you want, just don't push the pedal, that'll suck air in the system. And make sure you don't run out of fluid, that's one thing you really don't want to have happen. I don't know if you need pads or not, but doing a brake job under $50 is gonna be a little tight. Brakes are something you don't want to go cheap on. Spend the money and do it right so they don't fail going down the highway.

I remember when I first started working on my cars I was really worried to start tearing stuff apart. That I'd never get it back together again. Then after I was done, I'd say "well that was easy". You can do it If something comes up we'll help you out.

That thing is a beast!!!!! Love it! :banana:

If that were the problem I think I'd have bigger issues than just an evap code...

There are tools to do it, but on the cheap just use a turkey baster or something to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir. Fill it up with fresh fluid. Then just bleed the brakes, RR, RF, RL, RF in that order until you get fresh fluid out. Vacuum pumps make it easier/quicker. But it can definitely be done on the cheap. Sometimes I'll just open the bleeders and let them drip while I'm working on something else, periodically topping the fluid off. My point is, no matter what method you use, you need a brake system flush. If one caliper froze up, the other one isn't far behind.

Nothing under the hood is leaking. I've checked all that. The only thing I haven't confirmed is if the solenoid under the intake is getting power when it's supposed to. It doesn't always get power, only when the engine is warmed up and you're cruising, then it sucks the vapors in. So it's hard to put a test light on that. I guess I'd have to run the wires into the car. And if the CEL came on and the wires didn't power up then I'd know there was a connection issue and no power is getting to the solenoid. I guess my next check is to find where the hose comes out in the back of the car, plug it up and pressure test it to see if it's leaking somewhere. The evap system is a blistering nightmare.... It's not the ECU. I was testing a spare ECU to see if it worked, and that also tested it wasn't the ECU at the same time. Purge solenoid is the one under the intake, right? That works fine. No leaks, etc. Why would main ignition relay cause a evap problem? What's SBF-2?

Brake fluid is Hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs and holds water. If the brake fluid isn't changed after many years quite a bit of moisture builds up in the system. Couple that moisture with air in the brake system, and it'll rust out from the inside. First signs are usually seized up calipers. Whether you get a new caliper or rebuild yours, you need to change out the brake fluid to fresh fluid.