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I'd connect the pressure gauge with a T between the under hood fuel filter and the intake manifold. Not sure which noid light would be best, I just plug in an oscilloscope.... Check the fuel pressure first, though. That's more likely the problem.

Apparently the reason is because the very first legacys were transported by rail in gear and many of them had jumped timing when they came off. I think it's possible to jump the timing with fast changes in crank speed. Idling in trafic and you jerk the car really hard getting on/off the gas, stalling the engine on a failed hill start, etc. Autos don't have that kind of abuse due to the torque converter being a fluid connection. I always put a few auto engines in manual cars and didn't put those plates on... never had an issue. Honestly I'd just re-install it and not worry about it again.

If the engine in running when you put fuel into the intake manifold, it's likely you're getting spark. The injectors are fired by the computer. I would suggest using a noid light or oscilloscope to check the pulse to the injector plugs, make sure the computer is firing them. It's somewhat unlikely that's your problem, though. If it just stopped all of a sudden it's probably the fuel pump. There's a metal cap thingy in the fuel pump assembly that blows out on those causing a loss of fuel pressure. With no restriction on the fuel line you'll get good flow, however with a restriction it isn't going to build enough pressure to fire the injectors. The first step in diagnosing this would be to check your fuel system pressure, it should be somewhere around 40psi.

Where did you hear not to remove the trailing arm? I guess you could do that, but you'd have to get a screw press for doing bearings in place. Kind of a pain. Here's how I did it back when I had minimal tools for working on cars and didn't know how to do much more than change a spark plug. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/108429-pictorial-wheel-bearing-guide-4wd-rear/ The three bolts holding the outer trailing arm thingy on set the camber and the toe, so maybe that's why someone was afraid of taking it apart. You can get it back with a tape measure pretty easily.

The water pump on my 96 legacy seized, car only had 90k miles. It made a bad noise for about an hour, then shredded the belt.

With the transmission harness unplugged, the transmission will only have 3rd gear and reverse with the rear transfer clutch locked (think driving in 4x4 all the time (no the FWD fuse won't help with the harness unplugged)). The harness connector is on the top or the passenger side of the transmission just back of the bellhousing. They're the big electrical connectors that obviously go somewhere besides the engine. (Don't accidentally unplug the engine harness:)

I've seen those rust in half, I've also seen holes rust in the steel pipe to the heater core. It has a T that goes off to the throttle body heater and they tend to rust right at that intersection.

Welcome, I was born in Bundaberg!

FF leaves a thin layer on everything, so yea, it'll stick. Not a whole lot sticks to shiny parts, like control arm that aren't rusty yet. It's more important to get it inside the control arms where they rust. I think it also goes on a lot heavier with a pnumatic spray gun.

You can try just dumping it in the IAC line. Removing the IAC isn't scary, it's 4 screws...

FluidFilm is great stuff. for the last couple years I've been putting my cars on the lift every other month throughout the winter and re-applying the stuff. You can usually get good deals on 5 gallon buckets at hardware stores if you buy at the right time. I wouldn't spray with anything besides the FF specified gun, that stuff is THICK. I can't imagine doing it laying on the ground would be a whole lot of fun..

The buyback will probably be the sales tax ($482) plus scrap fee, around $300. If you went to the hospital, make sure that total doesn't include the medical settlement. Medical settlement should be separate from the property settlement.

Buyback is probably going to be over $500. If you buy it back you aren't going to be able to sell it for a whole lot more than that, there isn't a huge market for crashed cars. If you wanna fix it up yourself and try to sell it, you might make out, if you wanna part it you might make out. I went through the same thing when my forester was crashed. The frame rails were bent so it wasn't getting fixed, I didn't have the time and space right now to part it out, so I just let it go and cut my losses. If you don't have, or aren't going to buy another vehicle to use the parts on, let it go. Parting out a car is a huge pain in the butt, people will waste your time and you'll have a wrecked car sitting in your yard for a year. Same deal trying to sell it.

What's wrong with your car that it needs $3k in work? Also what complaints are you seeing in the newer ones? Is it just whiny people complaining about things that don't matter, or actual "things are blowing up and it won't move" kind of complaints? A lot of reviews have to be taken with a grain of salt because people expect something unreasonable, or don't know how to get the best out of their product.

There's a little tab/button in the middle of each connection you push in, then you can remove the connector.

First off, don't pump the accelerator; it's fuel injected not carbureted. To start it, just hold the accelerator down a little bit, it will work much better than pumping it. In a carbed car, pumping actuates the accelerator pump spraying extra fuel, in a fuel injected car it just frigs with the ECU and makes the thing harder to start. Furthermore full throttle while cranking is flood clear mode, ie. it gives no fuel to the engine. Now to the problem. I had the same issue with my GL when it was below zero degrees, had to give it a little bit of throttle to fire up. Then I had to keep a bit of throttle for a minute until the idle settled out. The issue was a gummed up IACV not wanting to work when it was extremely cold. The IACV is on the front of the intake manifold facing the radiator and is held on with four Phillips screws that really suck to get out. Take it off and spray it out with carb cleaner or drop it in some degreaser solvent for a while. You should replace the gasket while you're in there, I just made a new one out of gasket paper. Let all the carb cleaner evaporate and reinstall the IACV. The reason it doesn't affect hot idle is because heat from the engine warms the IACV and it stops sticking. I can't remember how the belt routing is on a normal ea82, but the squealing is either the power steering or the alternator most likely. When you start the car cold the alternator is working hard to get the battery volts up and the power steering fluid is really cold and hard to pump. When you combined that with cold belts that don't have a lot of grip you get squealing. Check the belts for proper tension, if they're tight don't make them tighter, you'll ruin your alternator bearings, replace the worn out belts.

Yea, you have to swap the bracket the tensioner bolts to. It's held to the block with 3 bolts, just swap that bracket from the ej25 to the ej22.

I've had an issue clearing codes on 95-99 legacys with my scangauge 2 as well. Not sure what the deal is, usually if I unplugged it and plugged it back in again it worked fine. I usually had better luck if I went to the gauges screen, waited for everything to initialize, then went back to the code reader screen. Something about letting it initialize on the gauges screen increased the chances it would clear codes properly. I'm surprised they're still selling the scangauge mostly unchanged, I bought mine USED in 2009 or so.

Ugh, those things are miserable. Sometimes you have to cut it at both ends, replace the bushings, and the middle of the bolt is STILL stuck in the damn knuckle. Then you have to take the torch and heat it and hammer the stupid thing out of there. 2.5 hours seems a bit steep for a shop to get one out, but I've certainly wasted 1.5 messing around with those. Royal pain, don't take it on yourself unless you're prepared to sawzall the bolt up, torch it out of the knuckle, and replace the bushings. Sometimes you get lucky and don't have to do all of that, you never know. The other method is to use one of those screw type presses for doing wheelbearings on the car. You have to drop the diff or unbolt the inner ends of the lateral links to get the axle out, then you can do the bearing in car. It kinda sucks to do that way and definitely takes longer, chose your poison.

You have to check for a certain resistance when the throttle is closed, I believe. It's been a while since I've installed one and can't remember the exact process. It's in the service manual which you can find online. I don't know how you'd do it without a meter, just get one for like $10 at harbor freight or amazon. It'll come in useful doing other things on the car as well.

Since they're all different, you can't just guess. Just because one was clocked in one position, doesn't mean the next one will be properly calibrated in the same position.

NGK copper plugs are actually the best, the fancy ones actually don't work as well in these cars. The cheapo coppers are the best ones to use. When you replaced the TPS did you properly adjust it? I can't remember the full adjustment details on the TPS, however it's listed in the FSM and other places online. If it's not adjusted it can cause a funky idle.

No North America EJ engine never had a distributor (some other markets had TBI and carbs etc). It does have a MAF sensor, only clean it with MAF cleaner. Anything else will damage the sensor. Fuel pumps generally either work or don't work, it's really uncommon to have a middle ground. Grounding kits don't improve engine performance, a new stock coil probably won't improve engine performance. Aftermarket coil packs tend to fry the igniter module. If the engine cranks fast and the alternator charges properly there isn't a grounding issue. Plug wires can get old and start "leaking" spark when they warm up. Ie. spark jumps from the wire to the engine block, not to the spark plug. If you haven't done so, pull your spark plugs and check for wear or proper gap.

If your struts are getting older they can ride rough when it's cold. They're full of oil, oil gets thicker when it's cold an that translates into a rough ride for a few miles until the struts warm up. Remember, just because you warm up your engine, nothing else warms up. Your wheel bearings, transmission, axles, differential, etc. Accelerate slowly and don't rev the engine very high. I always drive a couple extra miles through the city to the next highway onramp to give my car more time to put around at 25mph. It adds 2 minutes to my commute and saves some wear and tear on my car.

Isn't it supposed to steadily when the wires are connected and no codes are stored? It's been a while since I've worked on those. When the test connectors are unplugged if there is no light on, there are no codes stored. So checking for a stored code is pointless. What is this part you had replaced? Nobody on here has telekinesis.