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I'll second just replacing like others have said. I've done it both ways, and that's just easier. I've gotten a few of those bolts out, but for the most part they come out with sawzall and air hammer. Replacement bolt from subaru is something stupid like $25. If you have it, ABS connector is under the back seat.

If you were buying an engine from me, I wouldn't let you rip it apart before handing over the cash... Isn't it OK to run with those cracks anyway? they all crack like that..

So I put in a new fuel filler neck (the old one was very rusty and leaky), another good working solenoid, and changed out the ECU. One at a time. Still have the stupid code...

When I'm dealing with computer systems sometimes I'll have a very slight voltage where there shouldn't be any. Or where there should be a much higher voltage. I just put a small resistor across the load. If it falls to zero then I know it's just stray. Which, I then try to track down. If putting load doesn't drop the voltage something else is the matter. Your car is basically a computer system, and should be treated as such. With this type of stuff high sensitivity DMMs can be more of a curse than help for anything... Breaking out the good old analogue sometimes is the best tool.

0.8v is probably just stray current. If you put any load on it, it would probably fall right to 0.

Just rotating the wheels would tell if that was the issue... the vibration would move somewhere else.

First thing I'd try is rotating the tires to see if the vibration moves. That will tell you if it's a wheel problem, or if it's a suspension/bearing/brake issue. It's common on these cars for the caliper slides to freeze up. That will make the brakes drag, warp the rotors, and cause vibration. After driving is that wheel warmer than the rest? burning smell? Lift the car up and hold the wheel at 3'oclok and 9'olclock and move it back and forth. If it jerks and bangs back and forth you have a tie rod issue. Do the same thing up and down, if you get banging there you probably have a ball joint issue. If you get movement in both directions take a look under the car to see if the axle is moving independence of the knuckle, you might have a loose wheel bearing. Check all your suspension, sway bar links, strut.... etc.

Sure the axle won't come off the tranny stub without the pin. But it can slide pretty far without the pin, so far off that maybe only 1/4" of the shaft is connecting the tranny to the axle. If you really got on it you'd probably strip the splines out of the axle or off the tranny stub The later ones that eliminated the roll pin (rear diff did away with it before tranny did) have a clip that snaps into the transmission. So with a little force the axle just pops out and snaps in. Much easier to deal with. They don't get stuck like the stub shafts can...

Car looks awesome. I want one. 22B it

:lol: Tires that low profile are a wicked biotch to mount... I've done a lot of swearing trying to get rubber bands onto rims where I work...

The motor was overheated to the point of seizure twice. But still started right up and ran with no knock, bangs, or bad noises. I'm not going to run with it though because I'm afraid the bearings are hosed.

There's a thread in the repair manual section on the forum for reading codes on your car. You can't read the codes though if the light won't come on. Just sayin'

If it doesn't come on for the light check, how are you expecting to read the codes by using the light?? Replace the bulb.

You aren't listening... When the key is in the on position all the warning lights should come on for a light check to make sure they're working. Every car does this. It's how you tell all the lights are working. You don't have to plug anything together to tell if the lights are working..

Good thinking on valve seals. Yea, I'd be doing all the gaskets. Ones between the block halves included. Also a good idea to stop into my local machine shop and see what they can get me.

You shouldn't have to drill. The kit I had you just put the tap on a 3/8" ratchet. I stuck the tap in wheel bearing grease so shavings would stick to it, and they did just that! If any got in the cylinder it didn't cause any issues. And on your ea it'll be a lot easier than an ej, you can see the plug holes!

I'm rebuilding an ej25d and looking for a shopping list and what are the best parts to get. Should I just get all subaru bearings and rings? Or are there some aftermarket ones that are cheaper/better? So far I'm thinking: Oil pump Main bearings Rod bearings Rings All gaskets - subaru Timing belt stuffs - import experts Except for the last two, what are my best options? And other things I've missed. Also, what machine work should I have done in terms of resurfacing and boring/honing? I'm looking for an engine that's going to have good power and be reliable. I'm going to put this block between ej22 heads with delta cams for a high power engine. Please don't suggest I do an ej22 swap in my car. Thanks for the help!

Both your wheels are on backwards Lookin' good!

^^ ask for a loyale... I always have better luck getting loyale parts than GL parts ...

On mine there were so few good threads left it wasn't worth risking it. But mine came out with the bolt... IIRC the torque spec is somewhere around 30 - 35 ft/lbs

Correct, it's 90 deg past. If you look at the crank gear the arrow is TDC and the mark is 90 off. You can use all the arrows if you really wanted to.... BUT DON'T! heh. Everyone has a WTF moment their first timing belt.

If you put the cam gears on the wrong sides the timing belt wouldn't even go on. They have different offsets side to side.

That must have been terrible watching it. I can't even imagine to post more than one pic it's like this (img)http://image1.jpg(/img) (img)http://image2.jpg(/img) except using square brackets [] not ()

Holy expletive!!! That's crazy! Glad to hear your woman is fine. And man that's close to rolling. That must have been a pricy tow bill.....

I always tell people they know the TQ is seated when the distance from the mounting ears to the tranny bell housing is LESS than the distance of the mounting holes in the flex plate to the engine bell housing.