987687

A couple things I wish from the auto... I wish the TQ would lock in 3rd, and I wish I could make it hold in 4th. Sometimes going up long hills (I live in a very hilly area), it'll downshift to 3rd. Accelerate too much, so I lift off, then it'll shift into 4nd, but a tiny more gas to maintain speed it goes to 3rd again. Also, when I slam the gas to the floor, if I'm going over 40 it won't downshift to 2nd unless I put the shift selector into 2nd. But what's happening with yours is normal..... Swapping mine to a manual to fix all these issues.

What gets hurt splitting the block with the pistons still in?

The FSM does...

If the 98 is an L model, not a GT it should be a 3.9 gear ratio. The 98 though most likely has a hydro clutch, and my 96 had a cable clutch. You can swap the pedal box and all the hydro crap if you want... PITA. You could probably also bolt the cable setup to the 98 tranny.

Another RS25 engine rebuild thread that resides in my bookmarks with the other one posted in here... http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t71639-engine-building-ej251-sti-rods-pistons-head-work.html

When it's getting really bad, but when the leak is just starting you may not get bubbling when the engine is cold because the Tstat is closed. Safest bet is to get the engine up to temp then look.

I've had my car towed with a dolly before

When there isn't any pressure in the transmission (engine off) the rear section isn't connected to the rest of the transmission anyway. So FWD fuse or not doesn't make any difference. The reason you can't tow it with the back wheels on the ground is lubrication. The bearings in the transmission only get lubricated when the engine is running turning the tranny pump. If you tow it with the engine off you'd destroy the bearings. Now, in theory if you had the FWD fuse in, tranny in neutral, and the engine running........ Still a dumb idea.

It has EGR, but that appears to be working. I can't blow through the tube when it doesn't have power, and when I give it power it goes CLICK and I can blow air through.... I assume that means it works

I dunno either, but I put them back on the same way. I didn't replace the hoses, but everything is sealing nice and tight. I didn't think this was the gas cap/leaky filler neck code.... I really don't want to buy one of those stupid expensive things. Mine has the evap canister in back so it probably has the dumb valve on it too.

I have a P0441 on my 98GT with ej22 swap. It's an auto. Here's what happened. Swapped in an ej22, drove it for a couple hundred miles with no CELs or any issues. Then blew a HG. Pulled the motor back out and replaced the HGs, put it all back together and BAM after about 15 miles P0441. Found out I broke the stupid vac solenoid on the right (pass.) side of the intake for the evap system. I put a used (tested and working) one in, but I still get a CEL. I can clear it, but it always comes back. What did I eff up?

Some brightons didn't even come with passenger side view mirrors. Since it's a 99 you need to swap in a cluster from a 99. It's really easy to change the mileage, just snap out the retainer, change the mileage, snap it back in and make sure it's all lined up. I've done it a few times swapping clusters around.

Jumpy tach usually is because the disty bushings are worn and the shaft is wobbling around.

If it's intermittent, the bulb is probably loose. They're twist lock and can jiggle loose. Napa usually can look up what bulb you need, this eliminates pulling the cluster twice.

I have just as hard a time with red on the stock green. I could barely see the needles at all, actually. I should post pics of my blue. It's not blinding or anything

I like needles that light up red. But in the 2nd gen legacy they don't light up. So the red ones are kinda hard to see at night. Especially where mine is backlight blue.

after 97 they're all 120. I tried swapping the 140 gauge head over. But it still reads on the 120 scale... so it doesn't work. The odo wouldn't work either. And you can't swap the board behind it because it has a different connector. I really just wanted white needles because I hate the red ones.

My 2nd gen has red needles.. the 97+ came with them. Unless you mean red light up needles?

I'll trade you an ej25D block for the turbo block....

Is there any evidence it's been pumping oil? Easiest way would be to pull the oil filter. If no oil comes dripping out, it isn't pumping. If you're run it much with no oil circulation you've probably fubared the bearings... good luck.

The cam gear broke off?!!

No, you do not need a new exhaust manifold. The 92 ej22 will have dual port heads.

I had my inner tie rod fail because of a bad boot. It didn't break, but I failed inspection because it was pretty loose. I ended up having to replace both inner and outer tie rod ends because the jam nut was so rusted it just crumbled when I tried to get it loose. It ended up being around $100 in parts, but only half an hour labor. It's pretty easy. I just measured the old assembly and matched the new one to the same length. Alignment was fine afterwards. But if yours comes loose, there's no reason to replace the tie rod at the same time. If the joins are in good condition, just leave it. It's extra labor to take it out. So long as it isn't all rusted to hell just replacing the boot should only take 10-15 minutes.

The GL seats are a step worse than the cloth seats in the 2nd gen leggy...

That looks effing sweet!!! I saw that first pic and thought "that can't be WRX wheels on a GL wagon can it...." Then saw what you said and though "IT CAN BE!!" One badass wagon you have there!