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Yea, I came up with that on my 98 LGT when I put a 2.2 in it, worked great for me!

Other than all the things everyone has mentioned, you'll also need to change the cam sensor, 97 uses a different cam sensor than the 93 head, not a big deal to change it. Otherwise, yea, throw on the heads, get a different exhaust manifold on there and it'll be fine. You can use a 2.5 exhaust manifold, any aftermarket 2.5 exhaust manifold, etc. Dual port is dual port. NOTE: The engine will still be interference!! It's the pistons that make it interference not the heads.

You're supposed to let it sit until it glazes over a bit. I generally apply RTV, let it sit for 10 minutes and assemble. I've never had a problem doing that. When I worked at the shop time was of the essence... I'd put red RTV on a tranny pan, diff cover, or whatever. Slap it on, tighten it down. Lower the car and add oil. Never once had a problem with leaks. I don't like black RTV because it's basically glue, if you ever have to take the cover off again you'll have to torch it pretty hot to get the bond to break.

Just keep driving it, if you want more power swap in an ej22. The ea82 turbo engines aren't known for reliability and make less power than a stock ej22. Adding a turbo means you need some engine management, exhaust work, etc. Not worth it. Fix the lifter tick, there's an o-ring in the cam tower I believe that often causes low oil flow to the lifters. If it runs well just keep running it, if you want something faster get a faster car.

Is there a click/clunk under the hood when you turn the key to start? If the starter doesn't click when you turn the key, it's likely not the starter, rather the inhibitor switch. The switch on the transmission that makes sure it's in P/N. If that fails, it won't crank. Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake and turn the key to the RUN position. Pull the spade connector off the starter solenoid and use a piece of wire from the positive post on the battery to power the solenoid directly. If the engine cranks up and starts you know it's not a mechanical problem, it's a problem with the switch (unlikely) or the inhibitor switch (more likely). If the starter simply clicks when you turn the key, yea, contacts are probably bad. Still test jumping power directly to the solenoid, I've seen cases where a corroded wire wasn't giving enough current to the plunger to actually make contact. You can buy the starter contacts from subaru for like $8. Remove the starter and replace the contacts, or have a shop that specializes in starters do it.

Huh, I had a 99 outback that used alpine. I wonder if there was a crossover.

Is the battery in the remote good? IIRC there's a red light that comes on when you push buttons. Also, does your car regognise when the key is in the ignition? Ie. does it start dinging? I had a problem where the key in the ignition switch broke an as such wouldn't go into programming mode. Also, does the door open light come up on the dash when the door is open? Same deal, if that doesn't work it won't go into program mode.

This link has more detailed instructions and information about the alpine alarm system. Make sure you have one of the three remotes that article mentions. Either oval with grey buttons or orange/blue buttons or you can use the later teardrop remote. I had the teardrop remote and an older style one with my forester, both worked great. If you got a remote that's square with square buttons it will not work, that's for the code alarm system in 98 down.

A few hood solid hits with a 4lbs sledge should do the trick. Just to make sure we're on the same page as to what we're hitting with hammers, a nice square hit on the end of the mounting tab will do it. I've never had it fail me on subarus or anything else with taper fit balljoints/tie rods. Hammering them deforms the metal slightly (and temporarily) and pops the taper out. Pickle forks work, too if you're not going to re-use the joint. I still usually hit things with hammers first.

I usually use exedy, that's the OEM manufacture for subaru. No idea if you can get it at a parts store, I just buy from rockauto. Either have your flywheel resurfaced or replace it. Unless it's in really good condition, then you can just scuff it up.

The rockford drivelines part uses a retaining c-clip on the inside of the yoke ear! There's no machining required. They're kinda picky to install but work great once you're done. They even have grease fittings so you never have to deal with it failing again!

Sometimes the top of the threaded portion has a internal hex so you can put an allen key in there to hold it, use a spanner to turn the nut. I usually just use an impact run and run the stupid things on there, but if you don't have that try tapping the bottom of the tierod with a rubber mallet. That should help seat it into the taper and grab.

Look at the rockford application guide, it says legacy ones are different (bigger) than loyale/GL (or leone) joints. The one pictured looks more or less the same as a rockford drivelines part. You file the stakes down and there are clips that go on the inside, just as pictured in the ebay part. You install the new joint by putting the cross joint without bearing caps between the ears of the yoke. Then take the bearing caps and press them from the outside of the yoke onto the cross joint. So you obviously have to remove the staking. I put some additional heavy grease in the bearing cap to keep the needles from falling over, if any of them fall out or go sideways the repair job will fail in short order. Then you just pop in the C-clip and it's good to go.

Rockford drivelines sells replacement joints for the staked in nonsense subaru used. This is their application guide for ordering the proper part http://rockforddriveline.com/Staked-In_U-Joints.pdf Not sure if they'll do international sales, or maybe they have a distributor in their company, but I have used their u-joints to fix my GL's driveshaft with good success. The only issue I can see fixing that driveshaft is the broken part on one of the ears, not sure if that will cause a vibration from imbalance or not. Otherwise, you'd probably be able to successfully rebuild that shaft. You want to keep the same orientation of the two parts of the shaft, if you have any way of figuring that out. if you don't it will likely vibrate.

They're super easy, jack it up, remove the wheel, and just bolt the new ones in. If you're somewhere everything is rusty there's a good chance you'll have a hard time getting the old fasteners off, just take an angle grinder to the bolts to remove them. Really not a big deal.

I've only ever had to get a car towed once (not counting when someone cut me off and totaled my forester). It was my 96 legacy, the water pump seized and shredded the belt. Everyone gets all excited about non-interference engines, and it was nice not having to do a valve job afterwards. But it sure did interfere with my day (and wallet) having my car towed like 120 miles....

Been a while since I had one apart but no, I don't think it works on an ea81, at least. Not sure on the ea82. I seem to recall having to do something else to hold it from turning.

You can take those crappy stock terminals off, hit them sideways with a hammer, or a rock or whatever. Now that it's a little bit squished in use the same medieval instrument to beat the terminal back on the battery post. Works a charm every time. Of course replacing the terminal is a better option, but sometimes it's 2am at a gas station and your car won't start...

If your cable clutch is hard to push something is screwed up. I've never seen a hydraulic clutch as light as a cable clutch. I've driven brand new subarus with hydro clutches, and the cable clutch in my fiancee's legacy is still lighter. When I had to pull the engine to change the clutch I thoroughly cleaned the TOB snout area (where the TOB slides), splines and clutch fork pivot. I regreased them with a high quality synthetic wheelbearing grease. I replaced the clutch cable because it was starting to fray at the clutch end, making sure to properly route it. I was honestly completely shocked at how light the action was!! At the same time, I've seen hydraulic clutches that were really hard to use. It's usually a crusty old master or slave cylinder combined with a poorly done clutch job or just an original clutch that's 20 years old and really tired. All the grease is dried up and sticky making it not work well. The cable clutch isn't your problem here, it's old and sticky grease, an old binding up clutch cable, or a clutch cable that was routed incorrectly. If you get a long straw you can pull the clutch fork foreward and spray white lithium grease down the back side of the clutch fork, sometimes that can help lube a sticky or squeaking ball pivot.

Why??? The cable clutch works fine, if your cable broke just replace it, they're about $50 from the dealer. Careful you route the cable properly or you'll break it again. That said... you can swap to a hydro clutch setup if you really want. You need master, slave, and the hose that goes between them with the bracket. there's a bracket that holds the hose to the firewall. You need a pedal box, there should already be a plastic plug in the firewall where the clutch rod goes through. You need the hydraulic clutch fork, and you need to pull the engine or transmission. You have to change the clutch fork pivot, the hole is already drilled and tapped in the hydraulic location, just clean the grime out of the threads and swap it over. As far as I know, the pivots aren't different depending on the final drive of the transmission. I've never compared them side by side, but I've had both apart, swapped parts between them etc and never noticed a difference. You're in for a ridiculous amount of work when swapping the clutch cable is cheap and easy...

There are two issues you run into with lifting these cars. First, if the strut tops aren't moved inward you'll have positive camber which wears the outsides of the tires. My car was initially lifted that way and it didn't work very well. The only way to fix that is to either use offset lift blocks or drill new holes is the strut top. I designed offset lift blocks that moved the strut top in about 15 degrees with respect to the knuckle, this almost zero'd out my camber. I'd have preferred slightly negative just because the camber goes positive when the wheel flexes down. Next time... The other issue is toe in, that's really easy to fix because toe is adjustable at the tie rods. After you have the camber set where you want tie the steering wheel in the up position (driving straight) and do a jack stand and string alignment. Or I guess take it to an alignment shop, but where's the fun in that

Hey I tend to agree... I'm training to be an EE and daily drive a mechanically injected diesel, the more you know.... My auto climate control, vintage 1984, did catch on fire today while driving. So there's that...

Huh, cool one on the fuel pump. I just put a $20 f150 pump on mine, but that works, too. The how to keep your subaru alive is a great book, funny read, too. Author is sarcastic. I have the 85+ edition and it's come in handy on my GL more than once.

I was BSing with some friends and I remembered this fantastic roadtrip hack I did. It was night and there were a few of us in a friend's car, his tire went flat, turns out the valvestem was dryrotted and cracked off. His spare tire was flat and wouldn't hold air when pumped up with a 12v compressor. While wandering around wondering what to do I came up with a plan.... I used the spare tire jack to debead the spare tire and hold the bead down far enough I could get the valve stem out. Took a lot of poking with a screwdriver to get it out without breaking it. Did the same on the flat tire, installed the valve stem and we were good to go. Fortunately he had that 12v compressor, I always carry one with me.

In that case, your engine is 96 to 98, 99 changed to phase 2 for the 2.2. If the engine has hydraulic adjusters lash adjusters it's a 96, otherwise it's a 97 or 98.