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I use bolts that are just a tad longer than the original studs. They can't really be too long.

When the engine and transmission are mated, there should be a gap between the flex plate and the torque converter. If there isn't, you did it wrong. If they contact before the engine and tranny are mated, you did it wrong. It's about that simple...

That sounds pretty nice... Just did an engine swap in below freezing temps...

That's not really a good idea. With the studs you aren't putting that much turning force on the aluminum threads. It's all pulling force when you torque the nut down. But when you're torquing them in like that you're much more liable to rip the threads out of the head. Glad it worked for you, but I wouldn't suggest doing that.

The biggest thing is to make sure the torque converter is fully seated. When the engine and transmission are fully mated, the flex plate (FP) and torque converter (TQ) should not be touching. The TQ bolts pull the TQ out to meet the FP when you bolt them together. If the FP and TQ touch before the engine and trans are fully mated, pull the engine back out and seat the TQ fully. Also, take a wire brush or wire wheel to the mounting pegs to clean them up. I also took a rat tail file and cleaned out the inside of the holes they mate to. This just makes it easier to have them slide together. Then coat them in some anti-seize so they don't stick so bad getting it apart next time..

The engine weighs something like 230lbs. There aren't any dangerous high pressure connections, except maybe AC. But that just swings to the side. Lifting the engine out isn't that big a deal, get a come-along or two...

All I've heard about TQ bolts is that they're really hard, blah, blah. They weren't nearly as bad as I was expecting. Just did this last week, I could easily fit a ratcheting box end wrench in there and pull them out. Getting the first one back in is a little difficult to get the holes lined up, but once you get the first one, the rest are easy. When I pulled the engine the flex plate and TQ were a little stuck together ... Pulled the TQ about an inch out before I realized what was happening, scared the crap out of me. But I just lifted on it a little and turned it right back into place. Fairtax4me's advise about prying them apart first is an awesome good advise!!

I recently had to replace a bad inner. The outer didn't have any play in it, but the boot was leaking grease, and the grease looked like it was water saturated. Was it bad? Not yet... Would it be stupid not to replace it? Yea, it's going to go, the part isn't cheap but while I had it all apart there was no reason not to. I'd rather spend $40 and do the job right then have it break taking a sharp corner, etc.

^ I just made a set from bolts for an ej22. Just cut the head off the bolt and chase the threads. Works fine.

I pissed off my car.

There's a guy on here who makes custom brackets for mounting ea82 alt and PS to an ea81 for conversions like you're thinking of doing. I can't find it at the moment, hopefully someone else can chime in with the thread. I actually have the prototype (I'm pretty sure) on my GL, it works great! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99323 It seems bratman bought the first one, and I now have that car.

The most expensive part (besides the engine) you'll need is the timing belt. I probably spent a good $50 in just random fasteners, gaskets, etc Took me a while to do my first swap just because I kept going two steps forward, one step back with some stuff. Next time it would go a lot quicker..

ya, I still owe you on that... Remember that weird deal? When the Legacy sells I'll have the money. I promise.

I just did an ej22 swap for around $200 max. And yes I did the t-belt and stuff. Unloaded the old ej25 for almost that.

Found out that a DOHC ej25 long block without intake manifold fits in the truck on my GL. And the lid almost closes.

If it's an ej25.... Be nice to it. The rods will like you better. If it isn't... rev it up!! I usually shift around 2.5 to 3k in the GL. But shifting it at 5k isn't going to hurt a thing. Hell, hold it there for hours and you probably won't hurt it.

Sweeeeeeet man!!! That's awesome

A stock turbo setup not being beat on would probably be alright on normal gas. The computer takes care of preventing knock. But what's the fun/point of a turbo car if you aren't going to beat on it?!

Mine is an auto too. I have the 97 2.2 though, and that's rated for more HP (by like 3hp...) than the older ones.

Starter method FTW Esp. when working on an auto.....

Would it beat my slow 2.2 swap

That is interesting, and makes sense why it would only come on the manual.

What are you trying to say? Get better tires and disable ABS? That's what it sounds like. If I, just some random schmuck off the street, can stop the car better with my ABF than the computer can stop the car, Subaru needs to make their system work better.

^ stock get good mpg, highly modified, not quite as much.

Next time you're at the gas station, look at the price of expensive gas... Take 10mpg off your gas mileage... Do the math.... And you won't want a turbo anymore