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I've pulled people out with my legacy and my GL. Get a quality tow strap.

I took it as a head gasket discount

I made my own controller with a knob. Then something blew in my alt, spiked a lot of power through the electrical system and fried everything. heh.

Same, but I used RGB LEDs so it can be whatever colour I want...

I didn't have to remove the needles to change the colour of mine.

What exactly do you mean? If you don't play with the mechanisms that control the movement of the gauges, or the mileage, it'll be fine. DON'T pull the needles off, it's a real big pain in the butt to get them to read correctly again.

I like the different shades of blue you have going on there.

Thanks. This is a really nice car, and I want to take care of it the way it deserves. Picked up a set of summer wheels, $50!!

The seats are nice! no cracks or anything, and wicked comfortable. What do you suggest for conditioning the leather? Good call on the tensioner. It's a 97 2.2, so failing TB would be bad Thanks for the compliments!!

Just picked her up for $400! Poor thing got really dirty being towed home, but I've since given her a nice wash. Here she is! :cool: All it needs is an engine! The ej25 was overheated to the point of seizure TWICE! And still somehow starts up and runs. But is very blown. If I start it with the rad cap off, it blows exhaust out at a terrifying rate. But I have an ej22 sitting in my garage. Slap on a TB and WP and it should be good to go!!

Those are a pain in the rump roast...

I just asked for a clutch cable at the parts dept, gave my VIN, and they produced it from the vault of parts.

I got one from the dealer, they had it in stock, and I get a 15% discount ... It was around $55. I don't care if I spent $10 more, it's gonna last.

In Maine, even cars that don't run, but have no rust are worth a few hundred. I just dropped 400 on a car with a pooched engine, but no rust at all.

hahaha I found that out too

That's kind of ridiculous it sheered like that. You could put a bolt, or anything in there just to get you home. But I agree, running it like that permanently might not be so permanent. Clutch cable snapping does have it's distinct symptoms... haha. I was shifting into 1st gear to leave work parking lot. BANG, car jerked, engine stalled, clutch stuck to floor...

Now that's interesting... You could probably put a bolt through there, if there's a enough clearance in the pedal box.

Tightening the clutch cable will fix the engagement problem. That's not really an issue.

Good for whoever ripped off the dealer

The one I put in my legacy has been fine for over a year and around 20k miles. SOOOO Much smother than the old cable that was there. When I go out today I'll snap a pic of my routing while it's warming up.

New from the dealer?? If so, it probably wasn't routed right... that breaks them

Mine snapped at the other end, where it goes to the threaded rod to the clutch fork. The cable isn't going to break, any place a cable is connected at the end is going to be a weak spot. The clutch cable is pretty easy to replace, just make sure you reroute the new one the same way, or you'll put excess stress on it, and it will only last a few thousand miles. I suggest routing the new cable alongside the old one before taking it out, that way you know it's in there right. That is, assuming your old one is routed correctly...

95 will have dual port heads, but if it's from a legacy it'll be obd2. Doesn't mean you can't use it, just means you'll have to swap intake manifolds.

All the whit parts in the hvac control, so the little icons. The fan knob, the red/blue heat indicator. All the buttons on the dash by the wheel, rear defrost, cruise, fog lights, etc. Seat heater switches should light up. The hazard button should. That's all I can think off the top of my head...

I'm never selling my GL. That's one car that I can never part with.