987687

Shouldn't be that hard. They come up time to time on here. Good thing you haven't done what I just did... bought a car to flip, fell in love with it, and posted your DD up for sale. haha.

Oh!! That's not that bad at all then. It's worth more that in scrap metal.

Bought another one today, and it has a lot of todos haha. 98 LGT, black, all options, auto. Needs an engine, and has torque bind. So other than needing the ej22 sitting in my garage and a 5speed swap the car is mint. No rust, no body damage. Shiny and beautiful.

What'd you pay for it?

Lifted GLs do AWESOME in the snow. I don't like getting mine salty... but when I have to it gets all sorts of looks. I'm more afraid of someone stealing it out of a parking lot in a snow storm than any other day. haha.

I don't really like the baja stock, but lifted they're pretty awesome

^ what he said about flipping cars. I'm currently looking at a 98LGT that needs an engine, I've got one so it should be a quick turnaround and decent profit. The trick is to find a car with as little problems as possible, but it doesn't run. That way the seller has no leverage...

Ouch!! Poor outback

I usually put on the e-brake and then unbolt the rotor. And just leave the rotor there when doing axles. that way I don't have to deal with it.

This is what the washer looks like when you get it out, just to give you an idea of what you're looking at. And as MilesFox said, put a piece of wood over the axle and hammer it. That's how I always do it. Don't hit the axle with a hammer directly or you'll bugger it up and have to take the angle grinder to it before the axle nut will go back on.............

The steel one is the latest revision, and said to be the best. That's what I'm getting for my EJ22 swap engine. It currently has the aluminum one, but for such a cheap part, why risk pulling the engine again? All three are NOT ok, the plastic ones crack. That's not good. Don't re-use a plastic one.

Clanking noise in the engine That's not good.... Timing belt idler/pully will just sound like a dying bearing. Clanking sound = really bad

I think your capslock key is stick...

Mine happened at 92k too... At least I have an old ej22

Had it happen. Had a weird noise, and like a noob I turned up the radio too drown it out... Hours from home going 75mph my car starts to run weird, shake a little. Look down and the temp gauge is all the way up. As I was thinking about pulling over the belt snapped and that was it..... Coolant EVERYWHERE! Until I had it towed to a dealer and spent a lot of money to get it fixed

I have a 2" lift on my sedan. I disconnect the control arm from the inside when I do axles. It can be a pita to get it back on sometimes... Easiest way I've found is to jack up the ball joint a little to compress the suspension and make it easier. Then I use a punch or something to center the control arm in the mounting tabs so I can get the bolt through. It isn't anything that a little bit of hammering and banging on can't fix.

I've run wintermark tires, they're decent. That's a good price for 'em. They do pretty well slinging mud and crap out of them.

Your car looks awesome!

The other reason that light will come one is for a charging issue, like if your alt dies, the brake light will come one. When you first start your car make sure the alt is putting out properly.

I've recently had an issue with the bulbs on my 96. I didn't know there were a lot of threads about it till I just saw this one. Anyway, last week I pulled it apart and checked the bulbs, they were all fine. But one was really loose. What happened is the bulb just backed loose. I put all the bulbs back in nice and tight and it works fine again.

The 2.2 was phase2 in the legacy in 99. Yes, the 2.5 was not, there's one in my driveway. Thanks for the clarification on the EGR thing, I didn't know the full details on that.

'99 doesn't count because that's a phase2 engine. The 99 OBW in my driveway is a phase1 because it's DOHC, that's a manual and has EGR. But I was thinking putting the 2.2 computer to run the 2.5 just to see how it goes. The auto thing doesn't really matter, the ECU couldn't care less, it just sends a tach and speed signal to the TCU. I thought there was something about swapping engines where if you didn't have EGR on the engine, but the car came with it, you'd always have a CEL that couldn't be killed.

Hmm, glad that I'm not just imagining a difference. What about the EGR? Shouldn't the computer have been upset that my engine doesn't have an EGR on it? The stock computer obviously knows it doesn't have an one because it came that way from the factory. an interesting experiment would be to put my 2.2 computer into the 99 outback with the 2.5DOHC and see what I get

I'm wondering if there's any difference in the tuning of stock ECUs that affects power output any. I have a 96 legacy, 2.2, 5speed. No EGR. And it has the stock ECU. Sitting in a box, I have the ECU from an outback limited, 2.5, auto tranny WITH EGR. So for the heck of it, I plugged that computer into my legacy. Took it a while to idle right, but it learned how to do it eventually. Some things I noticed: Got a redline of 6500 instead of 6000 SEEMED to have more power, a little less low end, but a bigger curve overall. Could very well be butt-dyno calibration.... And no CEL for EGR.... I expected a CEL for that because it's an EGR computer running a non-EGR engine. And I've heard everyone say that there's no way around an EGR CEL with no EGR... Also, during my day driving around with it, after a WOT pull in 2nd to redline I got a CEL. Pulled over and it was for a misfire. Cleared it, and didn't come back in the next 50 miles. So probably a fluke... Just mentioning it. I don't usually drive this car very hard, so that's probably what triggered it. Anyway, do you really get more power with the 2.5 ECU running the 2.2? Or just my imagination?

I hate jobs that escalate like that ... I fix computers and the same type of thing is more common than I'd like.