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When it's not very bad YET, the CEL does come and go. If you watch the real-time coming from the obd2 port you can see it having a weak connection because it'll be reporting half your speed, or only 10mph, etc. Which doesn't cause a CEL, only when it drops to 0. But I can see that causing weird shifting issues with an automatic!! But all the time the gauge sits there and works just fine. I was on a 2000 mile road trip alone when mine starting acting up. That was really great At least mine is a 5speed so no shifting issues.

Thanks, I was wondering because I have a friend with a gen 2 who just called me this morning asking about p0500... He has 201k, I wonder if it's common for this to happen around 200k? Never seen much of it before. hmm.

YAY my guide made it in! Out of curiosity, how many miles on your car?

The deed is done.

I had P0500, Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction on my 96 legacy manual. But it has been confirmed this solution will also work on an automatic. I assume this would work for any 2nd gen, but have only personally seen this issue on my 96. The speedometer would read normally, but I would get the CEL P0500, computer went into limp mode, and I had funky idle/stalling issues. Here's how it works: The signal goes from the speed censor to the speedo head in the gauge cluster. This does two things, shows your speed, and sends a different signal to the computer. The problem: The signal isn't making it to the computer, which I confirmed with my OBD2 scan tool. The solution: The speedo head is held into the gauge cluster with 4 screws. They also transmit the signal from the back PCB to the speedo head. The screws can back loose and cause this CEL. Simply tighten the screws up, and you're all set! A picture speaks a thousand words, the screws in question are circled in red.

I could write up my findings in a more consolidated post, to submit.

Looks good! I've always wanted one of those cars.... I keep telling myself, someday ....

I have a pic sitting in my photobucket of the back of the gauge cluster from a different project... Each gauge head is screwed into that back board, the screws hold the gage in place, and give it the signal. The four that go into the speedo head are the four on the right that are around the black numbers CO92595. Those are the ones I had come loose.

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

Any excuse to use a new tool!! I love new tools.

I have a scangauge. Yes, you can monitor in real time what the ECU is getting for a speed signal. That's why I was saying in my earlier post how I found out where the problem was. I had a good signal to the gauge, but a bad signal to the computer.

That's interesting. So if you're going 60mph with your wheels completely locked up, it might not deploy? I guess modern vehicles take the speed from ABS censors anyway, so everything is more tied together... still interesting.

I had a VSS issue with my 96 legacy, and although mine is a manual, the cluster should be the same. The gauge was reading the correct speed, but I was getting that CEL and it was going into limp mode. I plugged my scangauge into the car, and the speed on the scangauge was completely erratic, would eventually drop to zero then the CEL came one. I pulled the gauge cluster out to find what was going on, turns out the screws on the back of the cluster that hold the speedo head in, and that transmit the signal to the speedo head, were backing loose. How it works, the speed from the transmission goes into the speedo head, shows the speed, then converts to a different signal the computer uses. Why it does this is beyond me, but the screw that makes the contact to the ECU was coming loose causing a flaky speed signal to just the ECU. I tightened it up, and it's been fine for thousands of miles. EDIT: I was just looking more closely over some of the posts on here about weird idle. After the speed signal to the computer dropped to zero, if I pushed in the clutch to coast down a hill, come to a stop, etc. The engine would just die. So maybe with an auto that could cause funny idle.

My 96 legacy is governed at 112 or something around there.

I don't want to start an argument here, so much as correct a common misconception. Two objects colliding at a given equal speed, say 60 mph do not have double the force. A car hitting a wall going 60, and a car hitting another car going 60 will have the same force exerted on them. Now, a car hitting another car will actually sustain less damage because cars are designed to squish to absorb impact. Sturdy walls don't move. I'd rather have a head-on collision going 60 into someone coming toward me at the same speed, than hit a stationary wall going 60.

Just for the note for those that may not be familiar, this is what a solid adjuster valvetrain looks like. HLA valvetrain will have flat tops instead of the flathead screw head with lock nuts.

Since you're saying the 20g is an interference engine, the 22t may be the only non-interference ej turbo.

2 years ago I had a start in -30. It collapsed an HLA or two because the valvetrain ticked for almost a year afterwards. Then suddenly shut up again one day.

Started my Legacy in -11 deg today... It wasn't really happy at me.

17 still seems kinda low. In my 96 sedan I don't think I've ever seen less than 22 or so.

I can confirm this, I have a MY96 that lost it's timing belt cruising 85 on the highway, and it lives to tell the tale.

You are driving a tank. Probably the most solid car out on those roads. Your gas mileage is gonna go down in the winter. Winter gas, warming up your car uses gas. Driving through lots of snow takes more power because its more resistance, so that'll use more gas. Also when you're on pavement snow tires will get worse gas mileage because they have more friction on the road.

In 97 the phase1 ej22 changed to a solid valvetrain from the HLA valvetrain. (I have one sitting in my garage.) And yes, it has the old style heads where the plugs don't go through the valve covers. And I've been told by numerous members on here that it's an interference engine because a piston change or something like that. I'm not sure why, just that I've been told it is.

I dunno if it's leaking or not... But I don't want to pull the engine out again. My clutch shouldn't dye anytime soon...

The guy who helped me with my clutch said that since my plastic one wasn't leaking it was fine... 25k miles later no at 119k I'm worried about the stupid thing and dreading pulling my engine back out. Live and learn........